Galvanized Drain Pipe Leak

Users who are viewing this thread

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Under my house, I recently noticed some puddling water. After some further research, I think I have nailed down the problem.

I believe my leak is occurring at the seam of a cast iron Y. Coming in the top of the Y is my bath/shower drain. This has all been replaced with plastic from the drain to near the Y. The other inlet is a galvanized drain that has since been abandoned. The pipe goes probably about 15' and then is capped. It seems that when draining the bath, the water backs up some into the abandoned pipe and is leaking at the joint between the Y and the abandoned galvanized drain line.

Why it was capped at the end, and not removed and plugged at the Y seems unusual to me. It also seems a little scary, as I would assume it is because they were unable to remove the pipe for some reason.

EDITED:
Below are a few pictures of the leak.

Thoughts? Solutions? Thanks!

drain.jpg

drain1.jpg

drain2.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
If you have no need of that line, I'd pull it out and put a plug in the end. If you drill out some of the lead around the joint, you'll be able to eventually pry out the lead and oakum (oiled hemp), clean it up, then put in a plug. It appears to be a leaded joint. If it is a threaded joint, you still should be able to get it out, but the threads will probably not seal if you tried a normal plug, but they do make one that will fit.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
I went and did some measurements.

From what I can tell, the circumference of the lip of the wye is 12", thus, if my calculations are correct (12/pi), the diameter of the wye at the lip is about 3.8". At the plumbing store this evening, I saw some 4" rubber caps and some rubber "sleeves" that went from 4" to 2", CI to ABS. These both were the type that had the hose clamps around the outside. I'm not sure what the inside diameter of these caps were, I'm guessing they're too big. Anyone know if they make caps that fit what I'm working with?

I was thinking I would simply take out the joint and the pipe and either put the plug over it, or use the sleeve, throw on a short piece of ABS and cap it (probably not worth the effort if they already make a cap). Thoughts?

Thanks.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
If you use that type of connector, you need to use the no hub or banded coupler. They are similar to what you describe, but have a fully stainless steel band over the whole unit. The neoprene sleeves are OK for underground but don't support the joint well enough for above ground. These are very useful to transition for one pipe material to another, but you do have to have the right size for both pipes.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Are any of these no hub fittings caps? Or will I need to go and purchase a no hub fitting, short piece of ABS and a cap?
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
They are just sleeve type connectors. Since it would be just for the cap, the neoprene Fernco sleeve should be OK.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Caps are not designed to fit over a hub, only over the end of a piece of cut pipe. THere are plugs if it is threaded, otherwise, insert a donut, a short piece of pipe , and a cap or cleanout as indicated.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
washer_b4.jpg

I normally drill out the lead, and pry out the lead with a screwdriver.
Something like a 1/4" bit, a bunch of holes works well.
Then you press the rubber insert in the hub, taper the end of the pipe, slather it with liquid soap, and pound it in.
 

Redwood

Master Plumber
Messages
7,335
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Connecticut
On vertical lead faces like you have a torch will melt the lead out...
Drilling and prying works but is more time consuming...
If the lead face is horizontal dreilling and prying is your only option.
 

Redwood

Master Plumber
Messages
7,335
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Connecticut
It shouldn't... Did you clean out all the old lead, rust, and oakum?
How did the hub of the wye look?
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks