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Thread: Trying to figure out shower drain rough-in..

  1. #1

    Default Trying to figure out shower drain rough-in..

    As the title states, I'm trying to figure out the rough-in for my shower drain in my basement bathroom. I've already placed the toilet drain but the whole vent and wet vent thing is confusing me. There are four stacks in the wall, one being for the toilet, one on the far right for the sink and its vent, one on the far left for the washing machine, kitchen sink, and vent, and one in the center being what I assume is the vent for a floor drain.

    I can tie into the drain for the washing machine and kitchen sink but the vent line goes to 1 1/2" and I'm not sure whether that is adequate for the three drains. I could tie into the toilet drain but then the vent becomes an issue. I assume I could tie into another vent line elsewhere as long as its above the flood rim of the other fixtures attached?

    I'm sorry if this seems disjointed and confusing, but I've spent a while now taking up the concrete and hauling everything away and am tired to say the least. Any help would certainly be appreciated.





  2. #2
    Plumber chasbo's Avatar
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    Default You have done your job

    Dude you removed the concret, hire a liscensed plumber , the fitting comming off the water closet is a sanitary tee on it,s side, a no no in the trade, this needs to be a wye and 1/8 bend . As for getting the correct layout for the shower leave it to the master plumber, stick with what you do for a living let the plumber earn his .

  3. #3

    Default

    This is a DIY advice forum. There are things I have no issues with leaving to the pros, and if it involves too much work I have no issue with leaving this to the pros too. As you can see, I don't have a problem with the labor, all I need is the knowledge.

    As for the sanitary tee on its side, it isn't really. It actually does have good pitch. That was also existing.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    As for the sanitary tee on its side, it isn't really.
    A sanitary tee needs to be vertical, not on it's side.
    It should either be a wye or combo fitting.

    Normally I would cut in a wye before the stack for the toillet, that way the "combo" would be on it's back under the wall so that the vent would be on the vertical, not horizontal under the slab.

    Right now you have a sink over a washer over a shower.
    I don't think so.
    Cut out some of that, and give the sink a vent, the washer a vent, and the shower a vent.
    Take all those vents and tie them together at 42"
    Do it.

  5. #5
    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    Default

    Wow trying to make sense of those pictures hurt my brain!

    Man that whole setup is pretty convoluted! Your kitchen sink and washing machine are already existing as a wet vent setup, and adding a shower drain to that setup would not be something I would not recommend. It looks like the stack is a 2" wet vent setup, and perhaps your code might allow enough fixture units on a 2" line for the the shower to be installed, but the washer and kitchen sink both dump a lot of water and your shower drain would be at risk, and since both the sink and washer dump a lot of sudsy water, there is the possibility of suds backing up into the shower.

    And chasbo was correct, that connection spicing into the toilet arm is a no no! The tee is actually on its side (meaning that it's laying horizontally instead of sitting vertically like it's meant to be used) in a drainage application, which is not allowed, it should be a wye+45 like chasbo mentioned. Infact that connection didn't even really need to be dropped down below the slab, it could have been joined to the main stack above grade!

    I wonder what whoever built that originally was thinking; I doubt it was done by a professional.


    **wow it seems "the man" beat me to it...do what he says...do it!**
    Last edited by Basement_Lurker; 05-26-2008 at 09:30 PM.
    Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy


    www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com

  6. #6
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    Your kitchen sink and washing machine are already existing as a wet vent setup
    But the washer never should have been wet vented over the sink.
    The washer dumps way too much water for that.
    And then trying to dump it over the shower vent, no way!
    I would be taking more concrete out.

  7. #7
    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    Default

    Oh I totally agree with you Terry, that entire setup should be torn out and re-plumbed properly as it should have been in the first place, but it doesn't sound like iminaquagmire is prepared to go that far.
    Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy


    www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Wow. Everything except the WC is existing work. I knew the builders did some shoddy work elsewhere but I never suspected it was in the plumbing too. Looks like I'll be taking up some more concrete. I appreciate the responses.

  9. #9

    Smile kansas master plumber

    you are allowed 8 fixture units on a 2" line. You are allowed to have 4 wet vents on one line as long as they are on the same floor and vented as per code. The wet vent for the toilet should be 3" and it should be a 3x3 wye and then changed back to 2" above the lav waste.
    shower = 2 fu
    kit sink 2 fu
    wash machine = 2 fu
    lav = 1 fu
    washer should be roughed in with 2"
    use 2" on shower and vent with 1/1/2
    now this is upc code. what is your code?
    all underground dr vents and waste should be a min of 2" coming out of the floor then reduced as needed.
    IPC code is different
    kansas master plumber

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member mc_1_2_3's Avatar
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    Default Dryer vent...

    And while we're at it, get yourself a real vent for that dryer. Those flexible aluminum foil vent lines do NOT meet any code for venting a dryer. Big box stores I'm sure sell millions of them, but not for new construction.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mc_1_2_3 View Post
    And while we're at it, get yourself a real vent for that dryer. Those flexible aluminum foil vent lines do NOT meet any code for venting a dryer. Big box stores I'm sure sell millions of them, but not for new construction.
    That is on the list. I did replace the duct line on the old dryer with rigid piping but when the Sears guys installed the new dryer, they disconnected everything and put in the flexible line. I keep having to move the dryer, so I haven't done it yet.

    Back to the original project, I rented a cutoff saw and cut a larger area to work in in the slab. Currently I'm taking a break from removing the concrete. I'll post more once I get it all open.

  12. #12

    Default

    Once I got back to clearing out the concrete that I had cut and broken out, I found the rough-in for the shower. I suspected there might be one because there was a hole drilled in the slab in that spot before I started any of this work. So at least I have that going for me.

    Next thing is the wye and 45 for the water closet to get rid of the sanitary tee on its side. Then I'll fix the vent and drain setup for the kitchen sink and washing machine. As I see it its setup as a wet vent. Could I take the tee's out and replace them with a cross and vent them separately while still combining them into the existing vent stack at 42"? That way they have separate vents and the washing machine wouldn't be above the kitchen sink. I'm not really sure of the best way because the sink is on the second floor, and there really isn't a feasible way to run another vent through the second floor, attic, and then the roof.





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