drain pipe slope

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wetvent99

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Hello all,

I've been reading a lot about plumbing lately and have had difficulty finding the answer to this question: If fittings come in fixed angles (90, 45, etc), how can you create a 1/4" per foot slope on any given drain line? Assume we are working with PVC. I recently took a plumbing "class" and the instructor couldn't even answer the question.

Thanks for your help!
 

Jimbo

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The devil is in the details, as they say. If you look a a plastic manufacturer's website, like Nibco or Charlotte Pipe, the give a lot of details, but especially they reference a long list of "comlies with" specs, like various ASTM standards. These are the standards which will give you the info on the angle built into tees, etc. Unfortunately, you have to pay for ASTM downloads, so I can't post one here.

Plastic is easy to deal with regardless. I never had to do cast iron work, but there you for sure had to have the angle on threaded tees, because there was no flex in the pipe. I assume on leaded joints it was pretty easy to set it where you needed it to be, but again, for many of us, that represents a lost art.
 

SRdenny

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Jimbo
You have never worked with CI pipe? Don't you use no-hub on occasion? I hope for your sake that hj is in a good mood when he reads this thread. :eek:

Just for the record, no-hub pipe can be canted as much as 5%, according to the manufacturer's installation instructions. Also, no-hub fittings can be cut and ground using a chop saw or peanut grinder, but you didn't hear that from me.
 

Jimbo

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Meaning I never installed a job in cast iron,or galvanized.. Cutting out old cast iron and replacing with ABS and a no-hub is easy enough.
hj is busy on another forum composing an answer to the guy who wants to boost the pressure in his propane tank to make a bigger flame in the fire pit.
 

hj

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Pitch

The only fittings that "need" the slope built in are cast iron screwed drainage fittings. ALL other types can be moved in their hubs to make almost any slope you want within reason.
 

SRdenny

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Durham and steel waste and vent:
Positives:
Ridgid install, needs minimal strapping on vertical
Lends itself well to prefabrication
Negatives:
Low tolerance for error
Labor intensive, needs some muscle to install as well as some big wrenches
(can you say "cheater sleeve")
Dirty, greasy mule (threader)
 

dwpecksr

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when laying pipe horizonally there is a 1/8 or 1/4 per ft sloap. when bringing it out of the ground on a slab I sometimes use a street 45 and then a 90 to make it straight in the vertical position. It makes for a better looking job.:)
 

hj

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Durham

You missed one.
Hard to make that final quarter turn to line it up after a disgruntled employee, who is cutting and assembling fittings onto the cut pieces, has tightened the fitting to the point where it almost stalls the power drive.

(And there was no way I was going to give him the satisfaction of complaining about being "too diligent". Just listen to the sound of the power drive laboring, give him a smile, and grab the cheater pipe.)
 

SRdenny

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when laying pipe horizonally there is a 1/8 or 1/4 per ft sloap. when bringing it out of the ground on a slab I sometimes use a street 45 and then a 90 to make it straight in the vertical position. It makes for a better looking job.:)
It also makes for one more bend where stuff can get trapped and lead to a stoppage. In the days of Durham plumbers used to roll fittings, the purpose of which was to use less of them, or so my father claimed. hj, what say you?
 

hj

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fittings

We used the least fittings to make a good job, and we still do. One "rolled fitting" that was used frequently, and probably never by most modern plumbers was a 1/6 bend into a Y to make a rolling rise and horizontal connection to a lateral line. I wonder if those who do know how to make it can calculate the travel piece or if they cut and try till they get it right.
 

SRdenny

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rolling offset is:
This works when the angle between your roll and rise is 45 degree

Roll(sq.) + Rise(sq.) + Run(sq.) = Travel(sq.)

If your angle is not equal to 45 degree the formula is 2 steps

rise(sq.) + run(sq.) = roll(sq.)

Then, Roll(sq.) + Rise(sq.) + Run(sq.) = Travel(sq.)
 
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