Are you certain that it is absolutely mandatory to connect to city water, or may you install a private well at your option?
Either way, you're going to have to have a permit and inspection(s). If you're ever going to sell your home, you may be required to provide proof of a permit for the new well, for instance.
In any case:
A private well should not be within 100' of any part of a septic system.
You can hand-drive, wash down or push (backhoe) down a shallow well point and pipe. The tip of the point should be no more than 25' from the above-ground shallow well pump and pressure tank set-up. You've hammered it deep enough when it reaches the max depth of the pipe and point or when you hit a bed of clay or something, if any, at about the same depth. You can tell the difference between sand and clay when you're driving it (resistance).
Here, where the water table is high, as it probably is in S FL, we usually use three 5' 1.25" galvanized pipe joints and a 5', 1.25" SS point for a shallow well. You can use two types of pipe thread protection for driving a well...either a Schedule 80 black iron pipe coupling or a 6" nipple between two regular galvanized couplings (I've used both, and I like the latter better). These are tightened on for driving the point and each pipe section, and then removed and replaced with teflon tape and a standard galvanized coupling tightened on as tight as you can get it.
You will need two 18" or larger pipe wrenches...one to use as a back-up and the other for tightening the joints. You may find it easier to use a piece of 2 X wood over the drive coupling, too.
Wells And Pump Tutorials: