Bremer check valve

Hello, first post. I have a small cabin in Iosco county, Michigan that is having some well trouble. The well is 2" galvanized pipe and was measuered with a plumb bob to be 40' deep. We pretty much can't get water out of it anymore. This water level is only about 6 feet down from ground level and the cabin is right on Loon lake so I don't think the well is dry. I put NuWell 100 tablets in it yesterday, but I don't think it is going to work because there might be a bremer check on top of the screen. I was hoping that the check was stuck open from being so old because my uncle said it wouldn't hold prime anymore. He installed a check valve at the top of the well some years ago. Anyway, If there is a bremer in there, is there any way I could remove it or should I suck it up and pay a local driller to come and fix it? I was quoted $700.00 to pull the bremer and screen for replacement. The only thing is, the driller won't be able to do it until mid summer when the hill leading to the cabin dries out so he can get his truck down there. Sorry for the long post. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Bremers are either pulled with Check Grabs or speared with a taper tap and beat out with Jars. I would leave it to the well man, because without the proper equipment and knowledge, your in for a real treat. Then he will charge you double to finish the job.

That screen should be pulled not Nu-Welled if possible. It will last much longer with a replacement than with the tablets. Bremers very rarely stick open. I would opt for a hole in the casing since two inch wells haven't been drilled for many years.

bob...

Thanks

Thanks, but what do you mean by opting for a hole in the casing?

Nevermind

Nevermind, I think I know what you are saying. I don't think there is a hole in the casing 'cause the stand pipe will fill with water and stay there. Also, when I install a pitcher pump, it kicks back hard with very little water coming out. We'll probably install a drop pipe for insurance once the screen is replaced though. Thanks again.

What are you calling a stand pipe?

bob...

The well T's off about 4' underground to go to the cabin where the well pump and tank are located.. I was calling the the pipe that continues out of the ground outside the stand pipe.

stand pipe
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v well screen

That would be your Pitless Adaptor. You say it stays full of water???

Then you said you had a Pitcher Pump hooked to it. How about a picture. Pitless adaptors don't have threads on the top. So I'm a little confused.

bob...

I guess I'm not explaining it too well. It has an actual tee instead of a pitless adapter. I'm not talking about the t'd off portion though. The part that I'm calling the stand pipe is the pipe that sticks out of the ground outside. This is the pipe I dropped the plumb bob down. If I put water in in, the water stays in the pipe. I threaded a 2" to 1 1/4" adapter for the hand pump on that pipe. Unfortunately I'm not able to get pictures 'cause I'm not up at the cabin now. I will be back up there during memorial day weekend though. Thanks again.

This sounds like a hand driven 1-1/4" well, but why the tee???

bob...

The t'd off portion goes to the cabin where the pump and tank are located. This pipe is 1 1/4" black well pipe. The actual well itseft is 2". I tried to drive a new well using 1 1/4" point and pipe but only made it 20' before giving up. We hand drove it to 15' then hammered on it with a jackhammer for 4 hours and only made it another 5 feet. Let's just say my friends don't want to go back to the cabin with me anymore. Since the new hand driven well was now out of the question, I decided to try and get the old well to work. I'm just going to have to save some more money and have the well guy that already looked at it fix it for me. I was hoping I could get away without spending too much money, but I guess $700.00 isn't that bad to have water again considering the only other option is to have a new well drilled at the top of the hill.

When I quit fixing 2" wells, the cost to change the screen and check valve only was $450.00. That was 28 years ago. So I guess $700.00 isn't that bad.

bob...