Replace dinosaur electric with electric, power or direct vent?

**mr_littlejeans** · 04-30-2008, 04:56 AM

We have a 26yo rheem electric water heater that keeps on ticking. I have no idea what repairs have been made since we've only owned the house for 2 years. We've recently finished our basement and added a whirlpool tub. I'm nervous regarding the ancient water heater failing and flooding the new carpet so I'm researching replacement options. Their is no flu on that side of the house but their is a gas line so my options are another electric or a direct or power vent, correct? I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the direct and power vent. The current water heater is on an outside wall - we would have to go through the brick to vent it outside if we go the gas route. I guess I am interested in looking into gas because we live in the Chicago area and our electric rates are really high. I have looked into tankless - but can't justify the expense with our cold water. I also have 3 little girls and see long showers in our future

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kinsey

**Squ1rrel** · 04-30-2008, 07:58 AM

Direct vent often refers to a unit that uses 2 pipes (unless the model has concentric piping):1 for the intake, 1 for the exhaust. Power vent units by contrast usually only need 1 pipe, for the exhaust, and take in their air from the surrounding area. Direct vent units are useful if it is a small enclosure that you want to put the water heater in, or there isn't alot of air flow to where it is located. Either way, you will be drilling holes for a flue, even if it is through the wall.

**jadnashua** · 04-30-2008, 08:00 AM

As I understand it, a power vent is nearly a normal gas WH, but has a fan to force the exhaust where you want it...it still draws combustion air from inside.

A direct vent is usually a closed combustion - it either uses two vents, or a concentric vent and draws the combustion air from outside while forcing the exhaust outside.

A direct vent will be quieter, a power vent can be somewhat noisey.

If you use hot water for your heat, you could use an indirectly fired WH...this becomes essentially a new zone for the boiler.

You can install a drain pan under the WH which, assuming you have a place to drain it to, should eliminate the carpet damage. Also look at a device called WATS if you go with gas, as it will both shut the water and gas off if it detects a leak.

**Ian Gills** · 04-30-2008, 08:04 AM

I would stay with electric. They are so much simpler, and gas prices are only going to climb too. A new electric one might be much more effcient than your old one. I hate to think what the lime buildup on the heating elements are doing to its performance after all of these years.

Normally the constraint is the other way round. Moving from gas to electric is often a challenge because the house requires enough juice. I doubt my 100 amp panel could take an electric water heater. Maybe one day I'll get one.

**Squ1rrel** · 04-30-2008, 08:18 AM

I'd stick with a gas unit if long showers are in the future...they generally have a quicker recovery rate. Bradford rates it's electric 40 Gallons for 56-58 gallon first hour recovery, and it's direct vent model at 71. Also, unless you have alternate fuel electricity, chances are as gas prices climb, so will your electric bill. I know down here in Texas, a large majority of our electricity comes from natural gas...it kinda cuts out the middleman to have gas-based water heaters

**Ian Gills** · 04-30-2008, 08:20 AM

But think of all that CO an CO2 a gas heater pumps into our poor atmosphere. I wish I could go electric or nuclear.

Do they do a uranium powered WH?

**Squ1rrel** · 04-30-2008, 08:27 AM

Very True. though alot of those direct vent and power vent units put out alot less CO and NOX than standard water heaters, depending on the design...certainly less than the electricity plants probably put out as they do their thing.