rough in help. pics included

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

i posted last week with sketches. i went ahead and DRY fitted the pipes for better image. i am under irc code. is there anything here that is not legal under that code or that will not work properly? your time and thoughts are appreciated.....a couple of notes...

1) nothing is glued.
2) the trap under the shower will be a non cleanout.
3) if the toilet need/should have a vent whats best way?
4) does the lav drain have to be 1.5 rather than 2" ? if so where do i reduce?
5) the flow is opposite picture order. ie. the flow goes picture 4,3,2 then 1
pic 1...

2 steps left of pic 1.....

2 more steps left then i straddled pipe looking towards ext wall....

last view where it goes through interior wall and continues as a soil/vent stack serving upstairs bath and kitchen...

Gear Junkie · Apr 26, 2008

The p-trap-change to one without the cleanout at the bottom. Having a gasket under concrete make me nervous. The last pic- why not join the sink and washer drain together and eliminate the sink wye fitting? Is that a kitchen sink or a bathroom sink? The 90 on the washer line is a vent 90- I wouldn't use those unless I absolutely had to, I would stick with a long sweep 90. Will it meet code? Yes, but as a plumber, I wouldn't use it.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

thank u for response. its a bathroom sink that sits just above image. i hadnt thought of joining the washer and sink. i will put that long sweep 90 on there, didnt think of that either. i appreciate all these suggestions. no matter how small.

TorontoTim · Apr 26, 2008

How far from the wall is the toilet flange? Maybe just the pics, but it looks pretty close. What is going on the walls to finish them off?

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

closet flange is 16" to center from wall ( that is side to side). it will be 12.5" to center behind toilet on future frame wall. this is a rough for a future basement bath and there will be no finish on wall(paint). the bath will have no walls that are exterior, and so that wall needn't be insulated.

rough sketch of floor plan...

TorontoTim · Apr 26, 2008

Just an optical illusion then - looks closer than that.

How close to the top of the cement floor are some of those pipes? I don't know how deep they're supposed to be under the poured concrete, but some look like they may be close to the surface.

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

i wanna say they are 16" or so from top of horizontal to top finish floor. with the washer horizontal being about 6" from top to top.

Gear Junkie · Apr 26, 2008

Just saw something else; the wye that serves as a c/o on the second and third pic should have at least 6-8" between the 1/8 bend and the wye. This isn't a code issue but it looks like part of the 1/8 bend will be in concrete. If for some weird reason in the future, that wye needs to come out, you'll have to remove the 1/8 bend also which means you're chipping concrete. Leave the space, it won't affect it code or functional wise.

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

u r right. that 1/8 bend is half way in concrete. i just made the note and will space that out, thanks. i'd like to hear some feedback on the toilet branch. i have some concerns there. like, should that branch have a vent or not.

Redwood · Apr 26, 2008

Yea, vent the toilet line. Also get rid of that PVC closet flange and get one with a stainless steel ring. Everything will be a couple of inches shorter when you glue up everything... Probably about a 1/2" for every joint!

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

thanks for the feedback. i plan on putting a 4x4x2 wye for the toilet vent and joining it to the shower vent at over 42". this make sense? does it matter where along that short toilet branch i put it? like will it function better if its closer to one end or the other?

WestcoastPlumber · Apr 26, 2008

why are you pitching your toilet waste so much? is that because of the concrete? I would only pitch 1/4" per foot, to much pitch and solids are left behind, especially with the low flow toilets these days.

If you pitch your toilet properly, you would not need to have fittings on the riser to the closet flange.

trash the plastic flange and get a soux chief stainless x pvc one.

leave your riser higher then the concrete, and wrap foam wrap around tot he top, then remove it above the concrete after the tile is completed, this way you will not have a tight fit around the pvc riser, and the flange will fit easy once you cut it down.

buzzard · Apr 26, 2008

im pitching it too much cause i dont know any better

. i have been lurking here for days waiting for a good man like you to say " look here, chief, try running the poop a little slower with less slope by doing it this way...". im a first time pseudo plumber who enjoys the challenge of tackling a project myself. if you read my posts you will see im not too proud to have a man point me in the right direction. all thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

buzzard · Apr 27, 2008

i re-read westcoasts last post and i'm wondering if it's being suggested that a longsweep 90 with a straight verticle to the flange is a better way to do that?

also i put the cleanouts (pic 1)at the buildings exit because i thought they were required. are they? ( irc code) do i have to have them? if so, should i only have the one that is in the direction of flow? if i do eliminate, you can see in pic 3 the next available cleanout in the upper left( the one i am proposing to eliminate can be seen at the very top of pic 3).

WestcoastPlumber · Apr 27, 2008

I also forgot to mention, you can flat vent the toilet, it would be better then where you have the toilet vent now, down the line.

Come off the closet bend, where it goes horizontal, where you have to much slope, with either a 4 x 2 wye, or a 4" wye, or a 4x3 wye, tie it in at 60 degrees and connect a 1/8th street and roll a vent up the wall with a 1/4 bend. after you install the c/o, bell reduce to 2" after the c/o fitting.

remember, if you reduce the pitch of that closet bend, you will not need those other fittings, look like 22 1/2's and an 1/8 bend

buzzard · Apr 27, 2008

all pipes shown are 4" or 2"

WestcoastPlumber · Apr 27, 2008

2 way c/o's are a good idea, not really needed in your case because you will have the c/o on the toilet vent, especially if you do it the way I suggested in my last post, with the flat vent right off the horizontal of the toilet, the proper way.

UPC requires end of the line c/o's, so UPC world, the setup I described would be approved.

I would flat vent the toilet and leave only 1 c/o, in the direction of flow.

WestcoastPlumber · Apr 27, 2008

Ok then, all the 3" that I said, change that to 4", like 4 x 2, etc. sorry for that. Actually, I will edit my post, looked bigger, but it is hard to tell on the computer

WestcoastPlumber · Apr 27, 2008

LOL, and one more thing I just noticed, take that 4" wye out and install a 4" flat tee or tapped c/o tee, it will hide in the wall with a chrome cover plate that drills into a c/s plug.

this way nothing is exposed out of the wall.

buzzard · Apr 27, 2008

thanks for all this info. im took all those notes down. someone else wrote that i need ten pipe diameters from the soil stack to the lav connection in pic 4. is that the case?

rough in help. pics included

Users who are viewing this thread

New Member

Plumber

Paid Advertisement

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Plumber

New Member

Master Plumber

New Member

Plumbing Contractor

New Member

New Member

Plumbing Contractor

New Member

Plumbing Contractor

Plumbing Contractor

Plumbing Contractor

New Member

Similar threads