Dumb problem - would like to avoid opening ceiling

In my bath reno, we installed a Kohler Memoirs corner acrylic shower pan/walls/door.

The drain for the pan calls for about 1 1/4" of ABS to come up inside the metal drain housing, and then a grey gasket cylinder gets pushed down between the ABS and the metal drain. No silicone etc. Just a pressure fit.

So, as it turns out, I haven't left enough 2" ABS in the metal housing. I'm about 3/4 inch short when all is said and done (yes, I made a mistake). The floor is all buttoned up (thin-set) and I'd have a hard time getting the 36 inches from the edge of the shower pan to the drain anyhow.

The question is, aside from opening the ceiling below, cutting the 2" pipe, adding a coupler and a longer section of pipe (or just replacing the entire P trap) is there an 'inside' coupler - i.e. a coupler that fits inside the 2" ABS pipe to join two pieces.

The 2" ABS which was required by the Kohler drain reduces to the 1 1/2" ABS that was in the floor already so I wasn't concerned about the reduction in the pipe I.D. with such a fitting.

Of course I don't think they exist, but thought I'd ask if there's any way to create a butt joint between 2" ABS that does not increase the OD of the pipe. If there isn't a reasonable way to do this, I'll just cut the hole in the ceiling and be done with it.

Showers are required to have a 2" drain according to our code, UPC.

Check yours, I am sure it is the same as IPC or whatever code you go by.

You cannot have a reduction in pipe size like you do. You stated Kohler had a 2" shower drain outlet and you reduced it to 11/2", not a good idea.

There is nothing to fix your original problem properly.

I would cut the cieling open, increase your drain to the proper size of 2" to tie in. Chances are your tie in is 2" already. Maybe a 2" x 11/2" x 11/2" santee.

re-do the proper way, to do this, you need to cut out the santee.

Not a big surprise that both the tub and shower drain in the bath, which was completely replumbed/reno'd by the previous owner are both 1 1/2" and that this isn't big enough.

I'll open the ceiling and replace the entire 1 1/2" line with 2" pipe then. I never had any sort of problem with the 1 1/2" drain before though.

On second thought, I'll do a little more research first.

http://www.dallascityhall.com/pdf/Building/ShowerDrainReduction.pdf

At least in Dallas, a 1 1/2" trap/line attached to a 2" shower drain is just fine.

taysan said:

Not a big surprise that both the tub and shower drain in the bath, which was completely replumbed/reno'd by the previous owner are both 1 1/2" and that this isn't big enough.

I'll open the ceiling and replace the entire 1 1/2" line with 2" pipe then. I never had any sort of problem with the 1 1/2" drain before though.

Click to expand...

You can plumb a tub in 11/2", that is not a problem, although I plumb them with 2" traps, thats just me, but like I said, 11/2 is legal for a tub

2" is legal for a shower in UPC Country.

You really want to fix it right, I have seen slow leaks on showers and the damage it causes, especially on second floors, you may not see the leak for a couple years. Very bad.

HAHAHA, I am moving to Dallas, my job may be easier.

since it is legal in your area, then why not cut the cieling open and remove the secon of 2", make it longer, and connect it to a 2 x 11/2" bell reducer.

Not a hard repair. All glue fittings so no chance for leaks.

Use a reducing coupling, not a bushing, a bushing will cause a restriction or a ledge.

no bushings

I would still remove the 11/2" trap and install a 2" for the shower, but thats me. your perfectly right, legal in your area.

Legal in Dallas, but not necessarily here in Toronto

I'll do a bit more research. If I can open just a 10x10 hole in the ceiling to put a longer 2" section in, I'll do that. If however code calls for a 2" drain to the stack, then I'm in for a much larger opening, which will likely wait as I may have to open the entire kitchen ceiling at some point in the future to reinforce the joists to support marble tile in the bath. Joists are too small and span too far for stone tile.

So anyhow, back to my original inquiry - is there such a beast as an 'inside' coupling that allows me to create a joint between two 2" ABS pipes without increasing the outside diameter (making it impossible to fit in the drain). Or as a temporary measure, could I butt two factory-cut ends together with ABS cement? The joint would be mid-way in the grey rubber gasket 'cylinder' that squeezes between the ABS and drain body. If any water makes it below the top edge of the ABS pipe and grey gasket, it's got nowhere to go anyhow, so really the ABS is just to press the gasket against the drain body.

?

No. But since this is a plastic pan shower and not a mud base, why can't you just make a bigger opening where the riser is, use an internal cutter to cut the riser, slide a coupling through the larger opening and then add the necessary length of pipe. And 1 1/2" is too small so be prepared to shower inside a mini-lake, and hope the rubber gasket doesn't leak under pressure.

I knew I'd learn something today! Inside cutter - didn't know they existed. Will look into that possibility.

The shower that was there was a 1 1/2 inch drain and I never had a problem. The City of Dallas seems to think 1 1/2 inch shower drains are just fine too given restrictions on shower heads.

That being said, I'm a firm believer in 'bigger is better' and would happily go to 2", and will when/if I drop the entire kitchen ceiling down. For now, given that some codes provide for 1 1/2" shower drains (providing the reduction is on the vertical, not horizontal, i.e. immediately below the drain into a 1 1/2" trap, and that it hasn't been a problem in this bathroom for the 8 years I've owned it, I'll stick with the 1 1/2" drain.

So either from above with an inside-cutter (providing there's enough room for a coupler to fit down through the drain or from below with a small access hole in the ceiling, I just need to extend this silly 2" pipe up about 3/4"

This is what I'm dealing with. My 2" ABS just doesn't extent far enough into the drain body. I cut it too short (Kohler's specs on the shower pan aren't much help when it comes to determining how much ABS to leave extended above the subfloor).

I'm pretty sure there's not enough room to slide a 2" coupler down through the drain body, so up from below it is.

Did some more Googling and found some basic info on the Niagara Falls plumbing code (which is an hour away - still haven't found Toronto code info online). Looks like 1 1/2" is code for a shower drain.

Like I say, if in the future I end up opening up the entire ceiling and gain access to the entire shower drain all the way to the stack, I'll swap it out with 2" all the way. For now, I'm going to cut an access hole in the ceiling and I'll go with a 2" from the shower straight down into a reducer into a 1 1/2" trap, so the reduction is kept on the vertical.

Description - Minimum Diameter (inches)
Building drain 4
Floor drain 3
Bath tub 1 1/2
Bidet 1 1/4
Dish washer 1 1/2
Laundry tub 1 1/2
Wash basin 1 1/2
Shower stall 1 1/2
Sink (kitchen) 1 1/2
Water closet (toilet) 3