Koa
In the Trades
What kind of fastener do you guys prefer to use to screw down the ABS flange (which isn't glued in yet) to a concrete floor covered with tile? It is all plastic, no metal ring. Thanks.
Attaching ABS flange to tiled concrete floor
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hj
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ring
In the first place, I would never use an all plastic flange. Eventually it is going to warp and require replacement, especially if it is screwed to the floor. But other than that "TapCon" screws seem to work the best.
In the first place, I would never use an all plastic flange. Eventually it is going to warp and require replacement, especially if it is screwed to the floor. But other than that "TapCon" screws seem to work the best.
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Koa
In the Trades
Thanks for the reply. My 4" ABS is about 2 1/2" below finished floor. The only flange I could find that extends down far enough is all plastic. It was from J-tec Industries. Does someone else make a flange with a metal ring that would work? I'm in no rush so can order a different one.
JDkimes
Engineer
A lot of people use the plastic flange with no problem but some here don't like them.
I used a concrete lag shield anchor (click on lag screw) shield and phillips screw with tapered flat head. The shield required a 1/2" hole hammer drilled into the cement. The screw was 1/4" and about 3" long.
Of course you'll need to drill through the tile carefully with an appropriate bit, perhaps a masonry bit could work. I cut my tile with notches to avoid the tile drilling.
Some people like the Tapcon screws but I hate them. They never go in all the way before the phillips head strips.
I used a concrete lag shield anchor (click on lag screw) shield and phillips screw with tapered flat head. The shield required a 1/2" hole hammer drilled into the cement. The screw was 1/4" and about 3" long.
Of course you'll need to drill through the tile carefully with an appropriate bit, perhaps a masonry bit could work. I cut my tile with notches to avoid the tile drilling.
Some people like the Tapcon screws but I hate them. They never go in all the way before the phillips head strips.
Koa
In the Trades
Thanks for the tip about notching the tile, I think I'll do that. I was going to drill holes, then fill with epoxy and then redrill and tap for 1/4" flat head ss screws. Sometimes I over-think things.
hj
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flange
If it is that deep you can put a 4" coupling on the riser and then use a "spigot" flange that fits inside the coupling. You may have to cut it off a bit to get it flush with the floor.
If it is that deep you can put a 4" coupling on the riser and then use a "spigot" flange that fits inside the coupling. You may have to cut it off a bit to get it flush with the floor.
JDkimes
Engineer
Tips when notching. Make the notches a pretty generous size. So that when you install the flange you'll be able to line up the holes in the flange w/ the notches with no problem. I slid the flange (one like this) in the pipe (not permanently) to help line up the notches as I was laying/cutting those tiles around the pipe. THen after the tiles were set up I hammer drilled the holes through the cement (and some mortar that had oozed into the notches) and put the lag shields in. Makes sure the notches account for the size of the lag shields and not just the screws.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
What I like to use for attaching anything to concrete is lead ferrels with a sheet metal screw. I have a hammer drill and it drills perfect holes for the ferrel. The ferrel is pounded into the hole until it is flush with the surface, then the item to be attached is put into position and the screws run in with a power driver. I've use this method for flanges, electrical boxes including service panels and outlet boxes, furring strips, etc.. Holds tight, but easy to remove if necessary. Also inexpensive.
JDkimes
Engineer
I think Gary means lead "ferrule" and that's another name for the concrete lag shield anchor which are generally made of lead.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Yep, sorry about the spelling error!
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