Deck Questions

Lakee911 · Apr 8, 2008

Good morning,
I'm going to be building a deck the full length of the back of my house.

I'm unsure as to whether I should overhang the deckboards over the rimjoists. I really like the look, but the I'm a little unsure as to the stability of the boards that are running parallel to the rimjoist. They're 5/4x6, so that's about 5-1/2" wide. I'm thinking that I shouldn't do an overhand of more than 1-1/2" so that the board doesn't come loose. What do you think?

Suppose I do create an overhang, should I do it on steps as well?

What about at the edge of the house? Should I hold the rimjoists back from the edge of the house so that the edge of the deck is inline with the edge of the house, or should I line up the rimjoist with the edge of the house and allow the deck to extend an 1-1/2" or so past the edge of house? Which would look best?

I'm planning on painting the sides of the rimjoists as well as the step risers.

Thanks,
Jason

BigLou · Apr 8, 2008

Jason,

I usually over hang my deck boards by about an inch on all exposed edges. I think its a nice look and still gives plenty of attachment. are you going to be using wood or compsite decking ?

Code requires an overhang of the tread from the riser so yes I would do it on the stairs as well.

I would run the decking with the edge of the house and hold the rim joist back.

Make sure you get the ledger attachment (if any correct) its the cause of more deck collapses than any thing else. same goes for the flashing its a realy trouble spot leading to rot

Lou

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Lakee911 · Apr 8, 2008

Hey Lou,
Thanks for the post. I didn't realize that the overhand on the treads was a code issue. I will do that and keep it within the edges of the house. I'm going to be using wood (not composite) for my decking.
No ledger board for me. Deck will be completely independent of the house.

I was thinking of using landscaping fabric in lieu of plastic underneith so I don't get weeds, and I don't block the moisture of a nearby tree. Do you think this is a good idea or bad?

Thanks,
Jason

Statjunk · Apr 9, 2008

Jason,

The size of the rise and run is a code issue. Make sure you get that straight. I'm not sure if the over hang is code issue as much as the rise and run.

I also wouldn't go much over 1" overhang.

My vote would be for heavy mill plastic. Maybe a couple of layers. Make sure the grade is right.

Also don't cement the posts. Pea gravel them.

Tom

Prashster · Apr 9, 2008

You might post yr q on sawmill creek. Those guys're woodworkers and'll have plenty of good advice.

Between TerryLove, JohnBridge and SawMillCreek, I get NO work done.

MG · Apr 9, 2008

Not to mention you may need to check with your local municipality to see if there are permits required to build the deck. Where I live you need one so the deck construction is inspected.

Lakee911 · Apr 10, 2008

Thanks for the replies. I picked up my building permit yesterday, in fact. They approved my plans of 12" run and 8" (or maybe it was 8.25) rise.

The reason that I didn't want to do plastic undeneath is because I'd actually like some of the water to get down into the ground for the trees that are nearby.

What do you think?

Thx
Jason

BigLou · Apr 11, 2008

Jason,
I would also use landscape fabric just make sure its well stapled with at least 6" staples.

If you are using wood for decking I would keep my overhang to about an inch. any more then that you will run in to attachment issues and cupping boards.

8.25" rise is the max allowed by code

Lou

KD · Apr 11, 2008

In the CBC and UBC, I believe the maximum rise for residential is 8 inches. Are you sure your local juris allows 8.25 inches? The minimum run is 9 inches. An 8 and 9 stairway is very steep. 41.5 degrees. It is very strenuous to climb and easy to trip on, especially for older people. If you build a long 8 and 9 stairway it is easy to get off on a few steps--I have been busted for 8 1/8 inches. I usually build a 7 and 10 easy climber.

Lakee911 · Apr 11, 2008

See, the problem is my site... the door is right smack in the middle of the back of the house and my lot is already 2-3ft off the street and the door is 3ft from the ground. If I built a deck that high, I would be up on display for the whole world to see.

Then I'd also be in to railings and all that too.

So, I have a 3x3 platform (IIRC from memory) 8.25" down from the door and then one more step 8" inches down and then 8.25" below that is the deck surface. But by that point, I am already smack in the middle of the deck 4ft out so it takes up a lot of room. Deck only goes 12ft out from the back of the house.

I'm planning on building frames for each step, so I could leave out the decking between and then be 7.25 instead of 8.25....

I need to give this more thought...

Hmmm..

Thanks,
Jason

Statjunk · Apr 14, 2008

I would build the deck high, put railings on it and then use valence to create the privacy that you want. There are vines that would grow in one season. You'd be all set for the summers.

A stair case that sticks out 4' into a 12' deck is going to be an eye sore and limit what you can do on your new patio.

Tom

Lakee911 · Apr 17, 2008

I decided that I am going to raise the deck 8 inches or so and that will take up less space, and give me one step down to the grass.

These postholes (12" dia x 32" deep) are killing me. 5.25 completed out of 10 so far. I might have to take a break today. Where I run in to the roots it takes me twice as long to dig...as much as an hour to get about 12" deep.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a preservative to soak the ends of the 4x4 posts in before I bury them? Should I pour some in the hole before I backfill? I've got clay soil so I'm afraid that I won't get much drainage from the hole.

Mikey · Apr 17, 2008

May be a little late for this suggestion, but in that kind of soil I'd use a Sonatube form and pour concrete pillars. More expensive, but they'll last forever.

Statjunk · Apr 17, 2008

Would you consider renting a post hole digger? Get an industrial one, that looks like something you'd ride. Not the hand held kind. Those are terrible.

If you have clay and no ability to drain you may want to consider putting in a concrete footer then resting your posts just below ground on top of the poured footer. They sell concrete post supports that you could bond to you footer that has a reciever end for a 4x4.

Tom

Statjunk · Apr 17, 2008

Mikey and I responded at the same time. The picture he posted is exactly what I was referring to.

Tom

Mikey · Apr 17, 2008

Great minds think alike...

I wouldn't bother with a footer. The concrete pier goes below the frostline and is self-supporting. Simpson Strong-Tie makes a variety of fasteners that can be embedded in the top of the pier and support the deck.

Some of these things are adjustable, so you can tweak things to make the deck surface perfectly level, and adjust later if things settle. Simpson publishes a deck construction brochure that's pretty good (http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/F-DECKCODE07.pdf).

Prashster · Apr 17, 2008

Umm, am I understanding correctly that yr planning to just bury the posts without supporting them on concrete? Code may dictate otherwise.

If it were me, I'd definitely pour concrete piers and then I'd use 6x6 posts - not 4x4.

The best thing for digging holes is a powered auger. However the tow-behind ones can get spendy to rent and it might be overkill for the remaining holes. You might consider renting a SDSMax rotary hammer (any HD will have one). These tools are like mini jackhammers but can spin like a drill at lower speeds - perfect for boring through concrete or roots. You can rent the shovel or auger bits too. It'll run you about $80 for the day, but will save you more then $800 in doctor's bills for the bad back if u dig em by hand.

Lakee911 · Apr 17, 2008

Well, I've got three holes left and I believe that I've already muscled through the hardest ones already. I considered an auger, but I didn't think it would power through up to 2" diameter roots. I hate cutting them. Poor tree.

Besides, it costs money to rent. I'm young. My bad back is better these days and I can use the exercise.

The next oppurtunity that I will have is Sunday, so I have some time to rest.

I found a Lego person head in the ground. I think a Lego Murder occured in my backyard!

My deck will be so low to the ground that 6x6 posts would be overkill. Code here requires there to be a footer. Really what it comes down to is do I backfill with clay or concrete? I asked a structural engineer at work and she said to back fill with concrete. I kid her for using too much concrete everywhere though.

She said that even w/o a tube it shouldn't heave since I'm down to 32 in. Average frost depth is 20 or so inches around here. I think that I'll probably pour an 8"-12" footer, add a weep rope and then backfill with concete for 8" and then backfill and tamp the clay back in. I'm not so concerned with it going anywhere. The concrete will help it stay put and not wobble during construction and the clay will reduce cost. Comments?

Jason

Lakee911 · Apr 17, 2008

That picture looks like they're pouring a grade beam. What's it for? Curious...

Mikey · Apr 17, 2008

Lakee911 said:
That picture looks like they're pouring a grade beam. What's it for? Curious...

Here's where I found the picture: http://www.bkcarl.com/ourhouse/rearporch.htm

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