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Thread: Changing receptacle

  1. #16
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Jun 2007
    North Carolina


    Quote Originally Posted by ked View Post
    The best device connection is the screw and plate method found on recent GFCI receptacles and hospital grade receptacles. The around the screw is next, but its durability depends on the skill level of the electrician(or handyman). The stab-in or quick slot is worst. Here is the Question; What is the recommended torque for a receptacle screw?
    I contend that if done propertly one is no better than the other.

  2. #17
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
    Central Florida


    Quote Originally Posted by ked View Post
    Question; What is the recommended torque for a receptacle screw?
    Leviton recommends 14-16 in-lb for their AC-215 and AC-220 duplex receptacles; hospital grade receptacles have a "designed torque capability" of 20 in-lb. Here's an abstract of a study intended to determine the effects of torque, contact area, and movement on the temperature of residential receptacles:

    Testing was performed using 120 volt, 15-amp receptacles and copper wire to determine the effect of torque and wire contact area on temperature elevation at receptacle screw terminals. Torque was varied on both the hot and neutral terminals from 0 to 12 in-Ibs, and the apparent wire contact at the screw terminal was varied by 1/8" and 5/8". There was no significant difference in temperature when changing apparent wire contact. Increased temperatures were observed with reduced torque, however, they were not significant enough to initiate a glowing connection, nor high enough to cause rapid oxidation. Further testing showed that movement of a loose connection was necessary to cause significantly high temperature changes, arcing and sparking, rapid oxidation, and in some cases, glowing connections.

  3. #18
    Licensed Electrical Contractor Speedy Petey's Avatar
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    Jun 2007
    NY State, USA


    Quote Originally Posted by sbrn33 View Post
    If you stick up for backstabbing you either just like to argue or have never done service work for more than a week.
    Just my opinion of course
    And mine as well.

  4. #19
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    San Diego


    Quote Originally Posted by jwelectric View Post
    Please understand that this is not directed to anyone person but instead to the market in general.

    Based on information that can be obtained from the CPSC and UL the installation of the stab-loc on 15 amp rated devices is as safe as any other type of installation.

    It has been my experiences of over 40 plus years in the field and 8 plus in the classroom that most people donít understand the failure of the device in the event one fails.

    According to recorded statistics there are two reasons that the stab-loc fails. First and foremost is due to improper installations procedures and second is due to overload of the device. Failure due to overload will eventually end up with failure somewhere else in the device or circuit if not at the stab-loc.

    Then we have the electrician or installer that just doesnít know any better that just blames the failure on the installation procedure instead of the real problem. This is due to the lack of knowledge and a need to blame something in order to affirm their knowledge when this knowledge is absent. This is when we hear things like, ďthis guy is nothing but a hack or I would never do anything like this.Ē

    When I hear these types of statements I canít help but wonder if the person making these statements thinks their knowledge and experience is far superior to those of Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories which approves the procedure.

    I also find that the electrician or installer that thinks that the stab-loc is a substandard installation are the same people that will spread the prongs of a male plug in order to get it to hold in a receptacle that is very loose. They donít seem to understand that the receptacle that is loose is failing at the tension spring just as the stab-loc failed. They donít understand that this loose receptacle is failing for the same reason that stab-loc fails. The loose receptacle is failing due to the device being overloaded.

    A close study of Table 210.21(B)(2) will reveal to the reader that any 15 receptacle is to be loaded to a maximum of 12 amps no matter if it is installed on a 15 or 20 amp circuit. To connect a 1500 watt electric heater to this device for an extended amount of time will cause the device to fail. This failure will occur either in the blade slot or the stab-loc if used. Did the device fail due to the installation procedure of due to being overloaded?

    Knowledge is power and power is the key to diagnosing a device failure. Without the proper knowledge one could simply make the statement that the electrician that made the installation was nothing but a money hungry hack and I am so much better than that hack.
    Myself I prefer to have the knowledge to properly access the failure and give the customer the correct reason for the failure instead of trying to make myself look better than someone else with false information.
    Can't disagree with anything you say. On the other hand, it seems that in the real world, J.Q. Public WILL find a way to tax a 15 amp receptacle beyond its means....with extension cords to multitply hair dryers and coffee pots.

    If your experience has been that you have not replaced a lot of receptacles where the back-stab connection failed, then that is the experience, and as I mentioned, we all expect professionals to learn from their experience and act accordingly.


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