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Thread: SULFUR - After hydrogen peroxide system installed - HELP!

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member S Fields's Avatar
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    Question SULFUR - After hydrogen peroxide system installed - HELP!

    Just found this forum and hoping some of you experts can help me.

    The basics: Bought a mobile home in July 2011, no city water available, so we had well drilled. Immediately, we had very strong sulfur content 10+ ppm. The well driller installed a pressure tank and we ran a hose out of it and let it run several thousand gallons out after drilling. The sulfur content never got any better, so we had to go to plan B. We saved up and built a small, climate controlled, addition on to the back of the house to store our filtration system in. We went with a hydrogen peroxide injection system, with a catalyst carbon (tank) filter, and a water softener system.

    After installation, we had sulfur free "clear" water for 2 days. Day 3 we started getting black sediment coming out of the faucets when we would turn them on for the first time in the morning, with a slight "rotten egg" odor. It would clear up after running it for a few minutes. Day 4, the smell was very strong, and the water was a continuous grey color. I went from 3 all the way to 10 on the Stenner pump with no improvement. I made sure it was injecting peroxide, and tried backwashing the system manually. After several hours just shut the water off to the house. I emailed the company we purchased the filtration system from, and he couldnt give me a clear answer on why it would do this after 2 days. He did mention that the pressure tank was in the wrong order in the system, and that may be causing it not to properly backwash.

    Here's the order the system is in:

    1. Line from the well, into a static mixer with peroxide injection point.
    2. Carbon Tank
    3. Brine Softener / Resin Tank
    4. Pressure Tank
    5. Line into house.

    He's saying that the pressure tank should be after the point of injection. I have no problem re-routing the plumbing to where the pressure tank is 2nd in order, but want to make sure this is necessary before spending hours running more pipe. I watched it backwash, and it has plenty of flow coming out of the drain pipe. The water coming out is grey - black with the rotten egg smell. It was automatically backwashing each day at 12AM on its own.

    The pressure tank sat for months with sulfur water in it. Would the "black" sediment be breaking lose and washing back and forth between the carbon tank and the pressure tank? Keep in mind it was crystal clear for 2 days.

    I apologize for such a long post, and appreciate any help or recommendations! We've spent about $5500 and still have sulfur water!!!
    Last edited by S Fields; 02-08-2012 at 08:37 PM.

  2. #2

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    Your pressure tank is in the wrong spot. It should be after the point of injection. I'm not convinced that its the source of your problems, but its likely not helping.

    When the carbon media is new is contains a large amount of dust in it and unless it is well rinsed it will make its way into your water. I would manually regenerate both the carbon filter and the water softener a couple of times in a row to see if you can clear up the water.

    My question to you is do you know if your carbon filter has been properly sized to the GPM output of your well? If the carbon filter is oversized it will not properly backwash.

    Did anyone mention air injection systems to you? Just wondering because I also have H2S problems (mine isn't as bad as yours) and that is how I deal with it.

    -rick

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member S Fields's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I gave the specs of the well (GPM & water test readings) to the filtration company, and he matched up this system to our needs. I did research air injection, but was convinced by the filtration company, that this peroxide injection system, followed by the catalyst carbon, would take care of our problems.

    I will try manually regenerating the carbon and softener a few times tomorrow and see if it improves any. If all else fails, unless otherwise directed on here, I will plumb the pressure tank in 2nd in line and see if that helps.

    Can anyone explain why the pressure tank being where it is, could be causing problems? I'm with drick.. Im not convinced that is the problem, but i've been wrong before!

  4. #4
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    + 1 on air injection, although 10 ppm is mighty high.

  5. #5
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Air injection would not have made any profit for the water wizard. Hard to sell air.

  6. #6

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    Under normal non backwash conditions water always enters the source side of the carbon filter and exits the supply side. During backwash water always enters the source side and exits the drain. BUT on your setup the pressure tank is on the supply side. When your filter goes into backwash the pressure tank is pushing water backwards thru your softener and potentially backwards thru your filter until the pressure drops enough for your pump to start. If your pump builds enough pressure to reach cutoff during the backwash this could happen over and over again during the backwash. This is likely part of the problem.

  7. #7
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S Fields View Post
    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I gave the specs of the well (GPM & water test readings) to the filtration company, and he matched up this system to our needs. I did research air injection, but was convinced by the filtration company, that this peroxide injection system, followed by the catalyst carbon, would take care of our problems.

    I will try manually regenerating the carbon and softener a few times tomorrow and see if it improves any. If all else fails, unless otherwise directed on here, I will plumb the pressure tank in 2nd in line and see if that helps.

    Can anyone explain why the pressure tank being where it is, could be causing problems? I'm with drick.. Im not convinced that is the problem, but i've been wrong before!
    The reason he wants the pressure tank after the point of the injection of the peroxide is to use the pressure tank as a retention tank so the peroxide has time to work. The volume of a regular sized pressure tank will not allow sufficient time.

    An air injection system probably would not work on your volume of H2S, neither would an air pump system but, any type of system is going to need a properly sized retention tank, and all the equipment should be after the pressure tank. Nothing that can block up should be between a pump and it's pressure switch.

    Your (most likely Centaur) carbon is probably ruined due to a lack of proper retention time for the peroxide to work. And you may find that chlorine is a better choice than peroxide.

    Drick is correct about the water flow being backwards from the pressure tank until the pump comes on.

    Here is a link to an excellent mixing/retention tank;
    http://4pureh2o.com/retention-tank.html

    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 02-09-2012 at 11:09 PM.
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  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member Steve Simons's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S Fields View Post
    Just found this forum and hoping some of you experts can help me.

    The basics: Bought a mobile home in July 2011, no city water available, so we had well drilled. Immediately, we had very strong sulfur content 10+ ppm. The well driller installed a pressure tank and we ran a hose out of it and let it run several thousand gallons out after drilling. The sulfur content never got any better, so we had to go to plan B. We saved up and built a small, climate controlled, addition on to the back of the house to store our filtration system in. We went with a hydrogen peroxide injection system, with a catalyst carbon (tank) filter, and a water softener system.

    After installation, we had sulfur free "clear" water for 2 days. Day 3 we started getting black sediment coming out of the faucets when we would turn them on for the first time in the morning, with a slight "rotten egg" odor. It would clear up after running it for a few minutes. Day 4, the smell was very strong, and the water was a continuous grey color. I went from 3 all the way to 10 on the Stenner pump with no improvement. I made sure it was injecting peroxide, and tried backwashing the system manually. After several hours just shut the water off to the house. I emailed the company we purchased the filtration system from, and he couldnt give me a clear answer on why it would do this after 2 days. He did mention that the pressure tank was in the wrong order in the system, and that may be causing it not to properly backwash.

    Here's the order the system is in:

    1. Line from the well, into a static mixer with peroxide injection point.
    2. Carbon Tank
    3. Brine Softener / Resin Tank
    4. Pressure Tank
    5. Line into house.

    He's saying that the pressure tank should be after the point of injection. I have no problem re-routing the plumbing to where the pressure tank is 2nd in order, but want to make sure this is necessary before spending hours running more pipe. I watched it backwash, and it has plenty of flow coming out of the drain pipe. The water coming out is grey - black with the rotten egg smell. It was automatically backwashing each day at 12AM on its own.

    The pressure tank sat for months with sulfur water in it. Would the "black" sediment be breaking lose and washing back and forth between the carbon tank and the pressure tank? Keep in mind it was crystal clear for 2 days.

    I apologize for such a long post, and appreciate any help or recommendations! We've spent about $5500 and still have sulfur water!!!
    I can give you some hard knock advice on this matter. We have a well that is likely in the worst area of Southeast Texas as it was an old oilfield operated back in the early 1900's and has literally thousands of abandoned open hole or log sealed oil wells. The ground water is so contaminated that the commercial property that doesn't have access to city water and sewage isn't being sold and developed. Too much liability for the oil company that still owns it.

    Our H2S saturation was closer to 20ppm. We tried the whole chlorine binding, then charcoal filtering to rid the water of H2S. It would work for about 10 days until the sediment and the bound H2S would expire the $35 filter. You can see where this is going with cost, right?

    We even had a commercial neighbor that could light a bic lighter from his faucet and the water would burn. Just bad, bad stuff.

    Here is what we've done and it's working great.

    Out of our well, we run the main line into a black 310 gallon, coned bottom tank. We enter the tank at the top and utilize a homemade spray bar with holes drilled into the PVC. This aerates the water in the tank and dissipates the H2S naturally through this vented tank. As this is a holding tank, this also allows the heavier sediment to settle into the bottom cone which is plumbed to a timed valve that dumps about a gallon of water every 24 hours.

    H2S problem solved before we even get to the first filter. From 20ppm to zilch.

    Then we utilize a booster pump to pressure up the pressure tank. We are currently utilizing a Stenner Pump set at 3 and injecting plain ol Chlorox bleach from Sam's right before the pressure tank. After the tank, I have a fine Stainless back washing screen that backwashes any sediment that might be caught here every 12 hours.

    From the backwash screen, we go into a Big Blue filter housing and I am currently testing several types of media that will provide the best quality water. We still don't intend to drink it considering the water source but we know that the Nitrates are low and there is no sign of bacteria. The PH is looking good at 7 so we're good there too.

    So.....no more sulphur smell in the building and the water is running clear. So far, so good.

  9. #9
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. What area are you in?

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member Steve Simons's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas Wellman View Post
    Thanks for sharing. What area are you in?
    Northeast Harris County. Moonshine Hill area.

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