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Thread: Need help with repair

  1. #1

    Default Need help with repair

    I am redoing our kitchen and in doing so I need to change some of the plumbing under the sink. I've got all the new cabinets in and am trying to get all the plumbing I can get done before the countertops are put in.
    My problem is qest pipes. I have two leaks that I cant seem to figure out how to fix. The first one is at a T (pic1&2) and the second is at a shut-off valve for the dishwasher (pick 3).

    At some point Im going to replace the piping for the house but for now I just want to stop the leaks. Please help.
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  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Well the best solution would have been to repipe the kitchen properly as part of your renovations. It is clear that you are not into sweating pipes or installing pex yet, but that is what I would have done. At this stage to get the water back on I would recommend installing this type valve and consider doing it properly soon.http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFu...pid=5315&ref=2



    It is a push on connector that will go on the Poly-Butylene and adapt to a faucet/dishwasher/icemaker/etc. supply. It will certainly work better than what you are trying.

    I would also recommend installing braided stainless steel supply lines.
    Last edited by Redwood; 03-30-2008 at 07:24 AM.

  3. #3

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    I am up for doing whatever I need to fix my problem sweating or pex all short of replacing all of our pipes for now.
    The copper T that is in the pic can I eliminate the qest all together and tie in with pex or even steel braided lines?

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I'm guessing your supply pipes to the kitchen sink are configured something like this picture below... With supplies cut in to whatever appliances you have.



    What I would recommend replacing from the basement or crawlspace (hopefully, a slab becomes much more difficult) up through the floor and under the cabinet with the material of your choice either Copper, PEX, or, CPVC and supplying whatever fixtures/appliances you have. From the stop valves to the fixtures/appliances use Braided Stainless Steel supply lines. (Do not use the Flood Stopper type)

    Transition from whatever material you select to the existing Poly-Butylene supplies by using Sharkbite couplings. http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_pushfit.php

  5. #5

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    Heres what I've decided to do. The compression t fitting Im going to remove and replace with a sharkbite t fitting. Then I bought cpvc to go up to a valve for faucet supply and cpvc to another valve for dishwasher supply. The valves I bought are for cpvc which are cemented to the pipes as you suggested.
    When I redo my pipes Im going to use pex as I have read it is better for my climate. Sharkbite would be awesome to do for connections but at almost 5 bucks a shot I may just use the clamps.

  6. #6
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Thats a good choice for now.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Wrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    From the stop valves to the fixtures/appliances use Braided Stainless Steel supply lines. (Do not use the Flood Stopper type)
    Man Red I wish I read this when I was installing my new washer a year ago.

    I bought those flood stopper type lines thinking cool what could be wrong with that? Its an insurance policy for the hoses.

    Until of course I turned the washer on and water was barely trickling out so I returned those piece of junk hoses and used the stock no frills rubber ones that came with the washer.

    Indeed just get regular braided steel hoses if there is any mention of flood prevention or shut off valves in case of a hose rupture on the package put it down and keep looking.
    Last edited by Wrex; 03-30-2008 at 12:27 PM.
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  8. #8
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    If you think about it just what is this stupid valve protecting? No-Burst hoses! Duh!

    False trips and not getting water is the least of your worries with these POS hoses... I have seen one that broke between the supply connector and the floodsafe valve which flooded a house... Go figure! Granted it was installed by a DIYer and was probably overtightened but I considered the retaining ring on the compression ring to be very under designed.

  9. #9
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hondatech View Post
    I am redoing our kitchen and in doing so I need to change some of the plumbing under the sink. I've got all the new cabinets in and am trying to get all the plumbing I can get done before the countertops are put in.
    My problem is qest pipes. I have two leaks that I cant seem to figure out how to fix. The first one is at a T (pic1&2) and the second is at a shut-off valve for the dishwasher (pick 3).

    At some point Im going to replace the piping for the house but for now I just want to stop the leaks. Please help.
    You are not supposed to use tape etc. on compression fittings. Same goes for the QEST nuts, you tighten them until they squeal and a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and quit. Also, the nuts are not NPT, they are straight; that's for both QEST and compression.

    So do it right with no tape and don't over tighten either type of nuts.
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #10

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    Well I did it a couple of hours ago. I must say I like the sharkbites. It was a sinch. I got everything hooked up and no leaks! Thank you for your help.

  11. #11
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Glad it worked out for you!

    A couple of those shark bite couplings will probably come in handy when you go to do your PEX repipe as you probably will do it in sections and need to temporarily restore flow in the system as you run out of time and will have several days before you get back to it.

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