Route question,Light question

[solutions]

I want to put a washer/dryer in a kitchen which will require moving the hot water heater,and running a longer 10/2 protected with FMC from the breaker panel to the hot water heater. Behind the washer just under the metal counter top is a nice rececessed area @ 3"x @ 2" deep that runs along the the whole width of the back of the washer. Along this reccesed area (right side) @ an inch or less In is where the drain pipe is clamped on, then @ another 8 1/2" on is where the 110 cord comes out,on the other side (left side) @ 2-3" in is where the hot and cold water valve is. My question is. Can i route the 10/2 FMC protected cable along this recessed area either running it over or under the above mentioned 3 items? Or perhaps use a different protective material for the 10/2 as it runs by some potential water leak areas and where a 110 cord comes out?


Light question:
Does anyone know how many watts a outdoor motion sensor flood light fixture is rated for? I would like to find one that can handle greater than 200W
Looking for a light that throws a broader and further beam of light..

Many thanks to all!!

[Speedy Petey]

Just because there is a chance for a water leak you do not have to consider it a wet location. That's kind of crazy. Thing abut your average basement or crawl space.


A quality motion light, like a RAB Stealth, can handle 1000 watts. But you have to pay money for it. They are not $14.95 like the JUNK in a home center.
Even the RAB Gotcha is 500 watt rated and they are not expensive.

[jimbo]

On the motion sensor.....of equal concern is the maximum wattage rating of the FIXTURE. A typical $19 motion sensor fixture from a home store will be rated maybe at 100 watts max each bulb, if that. You will need a more serious fixture , like a 300 or 500 watt halogen, or even better, a 150 watt metal halide. Motion sensors are available to handle this stuff, but get your wallet out.

[frenchelectrican]

On the motion sensor.....of equal concern is the maximum wattage rating of the FIXTURE. A typical $19 motion sensor fixture from a home store will be rated maybe at 100 watts max each bulb, if that. You will need a more serious fixture , like a 300 or 500 watt halogen, or even better, a 150 watt metal halide. Motion sensors are available to handle this stuff, but get your wallet out.

Jimbo just want to give you a head up with Metal halide they dont work very well with motion sensor system due 1] warm up time 2 ] restrike time it will take anywhere from 5 min to 30 min depending on what type it is 3 ] the HID are more costy to buy however you can use either CFL or liner flourscent luminiare due they can come on rather pretty fast almost instat on feature

as far for the motion sensor itself i almost never touch them from big box store they are nothing but pain in butt i get good one from Rab and wattstopper one of few items i can use and they worth the money on them

Merci,Marc

[solutions]

Thanks all for your replys.

Can someone please decipher what RAB is... (brand,acronym etc.)

I did not know my question and concerns were considered crazy...lol re: routing of protected 10/2 cable? The inspector did not think so. Is FMC rated to be water proof? If not what protective material is in this case?

Thanks all again!

[Speedy Petey]

My comment was directed at the point made about water leaking. What makes this area any different than any other where pipes are present? That's what I meant about a basement or crawl space.

Also, water leaking on a wire will NOT hurt it. Submerging a cable will not hurt it short term, but does mandate replacing it if the insides get soaked.

[Bob NH]

If you are running FMC it is best to use THHN or THWN (Usually dual-rated). It is not considered a wet location unless it it frequently wet. An inside location that may get wet if a pipe breaks is not considered a wet location. THWN is rated for wet locations.

You can run two THHN/THWM #10 + ground for the dryer, and two #12 for the washer using the same ground, all in a 1/2" FMC.
EDIT: You need the equivalent of 10/3 for the dryer; not 10/2; so need to add a #10 neutral to make a total of 4 #10 in the FMC.


I would not try to put cable into FMC. It is a real pain to run and would probably require a larger FMC than if you use THHN/THWN conductors.

It is technically a code violation to run the wire before the conduit is installed but it is a lot easier to run the wire through the FMC before running the FMC through the framing. It can be a bear to pull wire through FMC if there are lots of bends.

FMC is acceptable for wet locations if liquid is not likely to enter raceways or enclosures to which the conduit is connected. Also, it can't be run underground.

[solutions]

Thanks all for the great replys much appreciated!
Speedy i knew what you meant about crawl space and crazy..lol. just joking about no malice meant.
BobNH i had a fairly easy time pulling #10 through the FMC after...

Thanks to all!

[jwelectric]

You can run two THHN/THWM #10 + ground

Two hots neutral and ground would be four wouldn't it?

[Bob NH]

Two hots neutral and ground would be four wouldn't it?

Yes. I was reading the fact that he was using 10/2 (see original post) and not reading that it was a dryer which required 10/3. Therefore, he needs two hots, a neutral, and a ground for the dryer; and an additional hot and a neutral for the laundry circuit.

[hj]

His original question was regarding the electric for the relocated water heater which would be a 10/2 w/ ground.

[enosez]

Is it me or did this thread go all over the place??

Long night and longer day.