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Thread: Sump Pump

  1. #1

    Default Sump Pump

    I have a basement bathroom With a sump located under my cellar stairs (25' from the Bathrm) The sump pump stopped working about a week ago. I have disconnected the piping, sealing them off. I removed the cover and I am in the process of removing the water. I found lite tan matter (feces?) floating around, which I removed as well. My question is how do I check the pump out? The manufacture is FE Myers, Ashland, Ohio The model No. is MW50-1. It was installed in Sept 1999. It has a double cord on it, so I guess its an electric switch in the float, the cords are attached at the plug. I have checked the outlet and it has power. I had some back flow and the sump was over flowing. Should it not have been sealed?

  2. #2
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ri7425ck@hotmail.com View Post
    My question is how do I check the pump out? ... It has a double cord on it, so I guess its an electric switch in the float, the cords are attached at the plug. I have checked the outlet and it has power.
    The plug that goes into the outlet is for the switch, and the plug that goes into the back of that first plug is for the pump. To check to see whether the pump will run, unplug and separate both plugs and briefly plug the pump directly into the outlet for a test.

    Quote Originally Posted by ri7425ck@hotmail.com View Post
    I had some back flow and the sump was over flowing. Should it not have been sealed?
    A check valve should be keeping anything from coming back in through the discharge pipe.

  3. #3

    Default Thanks for that quick response!

    Ok [I] tried that and the pump runs, so I guess its the switch thats bad. It should be easy enough to change that. I have info on it. Junior Super Single Pump Switch, P/N 1001896, 10' W/plug, 10JSD1WP, SJE RHombus , 50/60 Hz Single phase, 1/2 max horse,13 amps Max pump run,40 amp pump start. I Should be able to use any switch that meets these specks? One thing, the outlet of the pump has a lenth of 2 1/4" PVC pipe attached, and the float was attached with a tie wrap and some duct tape? Is this acceptable? The travel on the float was about 8", this seems kind of short to me? The depth of the sump is 30". The float was attached about 21" from the bottom of the sump. This means the sump would always have about 17" of waste in it.

  4. #4
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ri7425ck@hotmail.com View Post
    I Should be able to use any switch that meets these specks?
    Yes, I believe so.

    Quote Originally Posted by ri7425ck@hotmail.com View Post
    One thing, the outlet of the pump has a lenth of 2 1/4" PVC pipe attached, and the float was attached with a tie wrap and some duct tape? Is this acceptable? The travel on the float was about 8", this seems kind of short to me? The depth of the sump is 30". The float was attached about 21" from the bottom of the sump. This means the sump would always have about 17" of waste in it.
    Relocating that mounting point and/or adjusting the length of the tether should allow you to pump more effluent each time the pump runs and reduce its cycling, and that is a good thing to do for sake of the life of the pump. A dependable attachment for the switch is important, of course, and I would shy away from duct tape. The tie wrap might be okay, but I have seen some cheap ones that dry out and break. Maybe someone else here knows the best way to attach a tether.

  5. #5

    Default pump switch

    thanks for the info! The switch that I am replacing is a SJE Rhombus, Junior Super Single. I went to there site and found it there, it comes with a mounting bracket. Question, since it failed (you dont see many mercury switches failing) do you think I should stay with this brand? If not can you suggest another? the specs are, 50/60 Hz single phase, 1/2 HP Max pump, 13 Amps run current, 40 Amps pump start.

  6. #6
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    I recently read this on another board:

    Quote Originally Posted by pumpguy
    We have been having problems with the SJE Rhombus vertical master switch. The problem seems to be only with the vertical master 11(10vmd111wp). We have been getting alot back that are sticking in the on position. If you get one get the 10vm1wp. The difference is the VM11 has a micro switch and the VM1 has contact points.
    I believe the switch you are talking about is a completely different style, but maybe the "micro versus points" issue could also be present concerning tethered switches. However, I know virtually nothing about all of that.

  7. #7
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    I have the Myers replacement or you can look at these for less money and the same dependability as the Myers.

    http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/ca...showprevnext=1

    bob...

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