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Thread: Valve with degree marks.. What is it?

  1. #1

    Default Valve with degree marks.. What is it?

    My house, built in 2004 has a well, approximately 380' deep. I have what looks like a valve with degree marks on the top of it, before the pressure switch.

    What is this part called? Where can I find another? I searched but could not find anything directly realted to what it is.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thank you.

    John

  2. #2
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    A picture is worth a thousand words. Why do you need to replace it?

  3. #3

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    I'm having an issue with air in the lines. Only noticed in the toilets of the house. I have three bathrooms with two different toilet manufacturers, so its not just the toilet itself.

    I'm trying to learn by reading this forum, on how to solve the issue. I am trying to get a working knowledge of the parts of my system. I don't know it bad, just need to know what it does to determine if its bad... I lived in a house with a well for 26 years before moving to my new house. I replaced all the parts of it over the years and never had this valve in my application.

    I'm just curious as to what it does.

    I'll have to get a picture tonight.

    Thank you.

    John

  4. #4

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    And let me clarify, when I say degree marks, I mean 0, 10, 20, 30. Not temperature degree marks.

    Rotates from one side to the other. 0 being in the middle.

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    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    New one for me. Maybe someone else can help. Or I will be waiting for a picture. Probably not going to help with having too much air though. What kind of tank do you have?

  6. #6

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    Its a 42 gallon galvanized tank with air bladder.

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    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Thats another new one for me. I don't know of any galv tanks that have bladders. Is there only one pipe going to the tank or are there two pipes going to the tank? If it is a galv tank, there should be two pipes and also be a fitting about half way up the tank. That would be your Air Volume Control and also your problem.

  8. #8

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    Well, I do believe it has two fittings, I'm likely wrong on the bladder part.

    Does this type of tank have an advantage or disadvantage to a bladder style tank? Which would be better?

    I'll take a look tonight. Thank you for your help with this.

  9. #9
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Maintaining the correct air charge has always been the major problem with galv tanks. You should have a check valve before the tank with a Schrader valve (like a car tire has). Then there is a bleeder orifice in the well and a Air Volume Control half way up the tank. All 4 of these things must work perfectly to maintain the correct air charge. Bladder tanks give less trouble because they do not have these 4 wearable components.

    You need a new AVC. Unscrew the old one from half way up the tank and you will see what I mean. I will bet the float that should be on the inside of the tank connected to the AVC has rusted off and fell in the tank.

  10. #10

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    Thanks!

    I'll do a search on the procedure for changing this valve. Your help is much appreciated.

  11. #11

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    Also, can I change to a bladder style tank?

    This would seemingly alleviate the problems with this system..

  12. #12
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Yes you can switch to a bladder tank. The air charge system may need to be removed from down hole. You need to remove the check valve before the pressure tank anyway, and most times this will keep the bleeder down in the well from working. However, if the bleeder won't stay closed, it needed replacing anyway. Then you need to pull the pump up about 5' to get to the bleeder and just plug it off, as you don't need it with a bladder tank.

  13. #13
    Pumps and well contractor for 25 years Schrammdriller's Avatar
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    You probably do not need to lift the pump, the valve you have is likely a Well-mate Micronizer. This is a venturi type valve that admits air to a plain tank. It does not require a bleed down valve. There were some others made also.

    It is adjustable. You should be able to feel air being drawn in when the pump is moving more than 5GPM between about 10 and 60 psi.

    You must experiment with adjustments to obtain the correct amount of air admitted. Also you can bleed off the excess air with the air control valve mentioned earlier.

  14. #14

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    That's what I have! Thank you!!

    http://www.wellmate.com/pdf/Micronizer.pdf

    Now, can I rid myself of that valve, and install a bladder style tank, without pulling up the well?

    Thank you to everyone for their help!

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    I would say since you have the Micronizer, you don't have an air maker in the well. Simply taking out your galvanized tank and the Micronizer, would allow you to add a Bladder Tank.

    bob...

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