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Thread: How to properly hang joist hangers? Tips and Tricks?

  1. #1
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Default How to properly hang joist hangers? Tips and Tricks?

    I'm going to be building a deck and would like to know the best way to attach joist hangers. (It's low to the ground and beams under the joists would result in trenches and that would also block water drainage).

    What I usually do is install the beam and nail through the end of beam into the joist. Then I put the hanger on. This allows me to position it such that the top of the beam (or rim joist) and joist are perfectly flush. It's alot more work though. I really don't want to waste nails or have them showing on the outside though.

    I've also attached them first and then installed the beam, but then I'm shaving off the tops of joists where they're a wee bit high and I'm shimming the low ones. No good.

    What do you do?

    Thanks,
    Jason

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    I use a couple of bar clamps and a small piece of 2x stock to hold the joist in position relative to the top of the beam while nailing the hanger in place. You can use a 3rd clamp to hold the hanger if you want to make it really easy. One picture of this would be worth a lot of words .

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    In the Trades AZ Contractor's Avatar
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    Are you using pressure treated lumber and if so what type of hangers are you using and how are you going to use them?

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    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Contractor View Post
    Are you using pressure treated lumber and if so what type of hangers are you using and how are you going to use them?
    Yes, PT Lumber. I will be using USP Structural Connectors JUS26-TZ. (I can not afford to use stainless or coated hangers on this project.)

    I'm not sure what you mean by 'how are you going to use them?' I'm going to hang my joists with them.

    I've often thought about notching my joists and hanging them on a 2x4 PT ledger board attached to the bottom of my beam and then toe nailing. Anyone done this before? More labor but it's cheaper.

    Jason

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    In the Trades AZ Contractor's Avatar
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    Read through this information so you can see where I was going.

    http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWoodFAQs.html

  6. #6
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    I am aware of how corrosive the new PT lumber can be. I'm not too worried about it. They will be on the underside of the deck and it's not going to see THAT much moisture. My triple galv hangers should hold up just fine.

    I'll probably still end nail each joist and then put on a clean rimjoist along the outside nailed from the inside.

    Thanks,
    Jason

  7. #7
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Underside of a deck with low clearance is one of the wetter places you can put them. And even if you hangers survive... your nails won't.
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
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  8. #8
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    You can usually use hot-dipped galvanized nails with pressure treated materials.

    One issue with pressure treated material is that it is usually wet and will shrink a lot. The hanger is usually fastened near the top of the beam and doesn't shrink. The joist is supported on the bottom. If the joist shrinks 1/2" then the differential shrinkage is approximately 1/4". Of you leave the joist a little high it is easy to shim under the deck board at the beam but if the joist shrinks low you have a mess of a job to try to make them equal.

    Putting a ledger board on the bottom of the beam requires a lot of fasteners. Most codes now require joist hangers after a few high decks have fallen after the toenails pulled out.

    I'm a fan of cantilever arrangements because the continuous joists over shorter spans results in much stiffer decks and lower costs for the joists. With the height issue that you described you would probably need to use reinforced concrete beams and some provision for drainage.

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