Do you have a master valve?
Last edited by sp3ctre; 10-09-2008 at 10:00 AM.
ok, I have done more research and as far as I can see the COM port is the common neutral, which needs to go to each solenoid. The other wire on each solenoid then must go to one of the 4 ports in the controller.
I have nothing going into the MV/P port at all, but as far as I can see I shouldn't need to. Why then is the unit complaining about a MV/P Short?
I cant seem to find any reference to why this error occurs, all the manual says is "check the solenoids". I had it wired up with just 1 solenoid (measuring 35ohms) and it still gave the same error.
The only other thing I can see is the 24v output seems to be reporting around 7v, although if I put the voltmeter accross the yellow wires it does indeed report 24v.
Any help would be appreciated, as time is off the essence and I really dont want to fork out for a new unit if it's some rookie mistake causing the error.
It would help if you could post a pic of the wiring.
If you don't have a master valve (need to verify), then there should be no wiring to the master valve/pump terminal in the controller.
First you should remove all the power from the controller (including the battery) for about 5 minutes. This will reset the controller to factory defaults. Then redo the zone valve wiring correctly to the controller before you put power to it.
Once everything is reconnected, power up the controller and verify all the solenoids are working using the controllers diagnostic test.
Here are the pics as promised:
I tried taking the power away (and the battery) and reconnecting. It still gives MVP SHORT error.
I hooked it all up as above (sorry for the messy wiring, I aim to fix it when it is all working... I did test every connection with the meter though).
If you need any more details please let me know?
The thing that confuses me is why it gives a SHORT error when it's had no power for ages and is then reconnected with nothing connected (the control adapter was unplugged and so was the COM port.)
OH, The Horror. I don't know about your area, but there is nothing about that setup that would pass a code inspection in my region.
The wiring looks "ok" as long as the common is going where it looks like it is going.
Hit the reset again (see page 21 section 7.1 of your manual) and make sure your zones are not set to use the master valve (see page 20 section 6.8) of your manual.
I believe the error messages are stored in non-volatile RAM, so until you clear them manually, those messages will remain in there until the end of time. The reset procedure should clear everything.
Also, I would consider getting the weather station so you can actually use the controller for what it is intended for.
Last edited by Kiril; 03-24-2008 at 11:07 AM.
Thanks, I will do what you said in the morning. Don't worry about the wiring, I just did it like that to show how it is connected. It is like this just to get it working and I will do the job properly and weatherproof and seal it up once it is confirmed working (you should've seen the wiring before I got to it!!)
Thanks again for the reply, I'll let you know how I get on in the morning.
ok, just tried the reset routing again.. still says the same, MVP SHORT. When I go to the other section where you set the zones it just says "0 zones" so there is no option to set on or off.
This is certainly proving to be more of a challenge than I expected. Any other ideas before I purchase an entire new system?
Thanks again for your replies
Try hooking up one of your valves to the master valve port, run the diagnostic test to clear the error, then switch it back.
Also verify the valves operation by using the test screw and it wouldn't hurt to write down the reported voltages when running the diagnostic.
Last edited by Kiril; 03-25-2008 at 03:58 AM.
forgot to note the voltages, will go check just now
Another thing I forgot to mention is this is South Africa... there have been a lot of power cuts/surges which have affected other electrical devices (pool pump motor etc). Could this have affected the SL1600 at all, and if so which area would likely be affected? I'd have thought the transformer would have been the victim, but the 2 yellow wires are reporting 24v still.
Last edited by sp3ctre; 03-26-2008 at 01:38 AM.
I am out of suggestions. You have pretty much done everything you can to get the system running again, which leaves you with only one logical conclusion ... the controller went bad.
Power surges can damage irrigation controllers, so it is quite possible something happened during one of those surges.
I would give Weathermatic tech support a call and see if they have a solution or will ship you a replacement.
Thanks for all your help... got those voltage readings from when I did the test... oddly both the 9v battery and the 24v supply read 6.8v... will see if I can contact weathermatic now.