sweating near main shut off

I am going to be installing a 2nd water meter, and I am presented with a problem.

My current plumbing setup -
3/4" incoming service to a brass shutoff
a copper elbow from the shutoff
to the water meter.

In order to add a Tee for the 2nd meter I need to sweat off the old elbow to the old meter, and replace it with a Tee. How can I remove the water from the line at this point (since it is at the lowest point in the house).

Which leads to a 2nd question any ideas on sweat off a pipe that is connected to the main value for the house without damagine the soldered joint on the other end?

I would leave the existing elbow in place. The last thing you want to do is some how mess it up and not be able to get a good connection to the 2" stub of pipe coming through the concrete wall.

You'll need to shut off the water at the curb stop before you can disconnect the existing pipe ahead of the shutoff valve. Hopefully it will seal well. I would contact the water company to do this because they'll replace it if its old and breaks, and if you do it and breaks they will sock you with the bill. connect a shop vac up to the pipe with some duct tape and suck the water out as much as you can.

I would stuff some bread up in the pipe if you have a little trickle that won't go away. It'll dissolve when you turn the water back on, but you might need to clean out your aerators.

An easier method might be to install the new meter after yuor existing meter. Around here, Columbus, OH, we have the option to do it that way or the way you describe.Your bill would then be subtracted the difference in the rates and usages. See if your water co will let you do that.


Jason

I agree with Jason, don't remove anything you don't really have to. It is not uncommon for the curb stop to leak a small amount of water when it is turned off and this can present a problem. A trick I have used quite effectively is to cut some strips of terry cloth (aka towel) and using a coat hanger, thread it through the fitting to be soldered and then pushing it into the pipe as far as possible. You want a fairly tight fit, so experiment with how much towel to use. Don't push the swab in so deep you can't get hold of the ends when it's time to pull it out. This will buy some time to solder, but have everything you need on hand so you can work quickly.

I agree

that I shouldn't remove more than what is necessary, but per the township's instructions the 2nd meter needs to be branched off the main supply.

per this: http://twp-superior.org/departments/sprinklingmeterA.pdf

As far as leaving the elbow on, I dont see how that is possible. The elbow is soldered directly to the brass valve. The pipe coming from the elbow is a very short run (1" or so) to the female adapter that is connected to the meter. Where along that little run could I insert a Tee?

Well, you gotta do what ya gotta do. If the elbow has to come off, then take it off. In order to remove it without cutting and to solder the new fittings on, you will absolutely have to have it dry, and that's why I suggested a way to do that. It's not the only way, but it has worked well for me and it's free.

If I do have to sweat the elbow off, any tips/tricks to prevent the soldered joint on the other end of the valve from coming loose?

I'm not sure of your set up, but most main shut off valves inside the home will have a bleeder valve on the side of the main water shut off (thumb screw).If it is, open it to drain that portion. Remove the elbow and insert the T and additional valves to isolate each meter (In case of future leaks).

You will end up raising the heights of the meters without having to call the city workers, unless height is an issue. The opposite side of the main water shut off will not be effected by the flame heat because it is under water pressure and wet.