what std pump and CSV? Help

After getting myself wrapped into this, I know enough to make me dangerous but still I really know nothing. Please help.
I am upgrading to a 3/4 HP with my 32 gallon tank because my 1/2 HP is dead. I plan to stay in the house for the rest of my life and I just want the pump to last. I know that grundfos is the best (I hear), One guy that I just called from the yellow pages will put that in for 1100, but the well guy that put in the well, that I was going to go with wants to put in a goulds, because I have a 5' PVC ( well is 148 with the pump at 80ft) and don't need to pay the extra money for one. This guy sounds like he knows a lot about the pumps and says that the goulds has lasted for him. I was worried about the pantex (I think thats right) motor thats made in china and potential plastic impellers. Is this gould pump ok or should I get the franklin motor in the goulds or buy a aqua duty (with franklin motor), or go with the guy that will put in the grundfos. What pump would you go with that will last?
Plus I was thinking of putting a CSV on it after reading some things online. Is that a good opinion that will make the pump last longer.
thanks
Bryan

I would go with a Goulds with a Franklin motor. You can go with a 2-wire motor and have fewer things to go wrong.

Whether you need a CSV depends on your tank size and water demands.

Why do you want a 3/4 HP pump? Which 3/4 HP pump is being proposed?

Two different 3/4 HP Goulds submersibles do different things.

A Goulds 7GS07 provides more pressure while the 10GS07 provides more flow at lower pressure. The 7GS07 will deliver up to 10 GPM with your likely starting pressure (and will provide that continuous flow) and about 8 GPM at shutoff. The 10GS07 will also work if you have a need for more flow (rated for up to 16 GPM at lower pressure) such as for an irrigation system, but will not deliver as much peak pressure if there is a lot of drawdown in the well. If you don't know the capacity of the well the 7GS07 is the safer selection if your 1/2 HP pump was nearly adequate.

I think the CSV is good for an irrigation system where you can do most of the pumping below the regulated pressure. (see the other thread on the subject https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19549 ) . For domestic use which is largely intermittent I prefer a tank large enough to give decent cycles times where the actual size of the bladder tank is 3 to 4 times the GPM rating of the pump. I would use a minimum 30 gallon tank for the Goulds 7GS07 which has a maximum rated delivery of 10 GPM.

The Grundfos 4" pumps will have Stainless Steel impellers. Most other brands will use plastic impellers. However, the new Grundfos pumps have made the Stainless steel impellers so thin that the plastic impellers will last just as long. Grundfos has their own motor though, and I have one still in the well since 1982. Probably been changed a few times since them but, still a good motor.

Goulds is a good pump but, you are paying extra to support their race cars and corporate jets, not for better quality. Goulds and Sta-Rite now use a new motor. (Faradyne I think) It may be alright but, it has not had a long enough track record to know for sure. It says made in USA but, I believe it is assembled in the USA from parts made in Mexico.

Frankin motors are good. Their pumps are all the same and go by several names such as Aqua Duty, J-class, Schaffer, and maybe others. They have plastic impellers which are no better than any of the others.

Basically all pumps and motors are now built with "planned obsolescence" as a major design factor. If you want the system to last, I would stay away from the 3" pumps that spin a t 10,000+ RPM, such as the Grundfos SQ, and SQE. Anytime you double the RPM of a pump, you quadruple the wear rate. Use a Brand name 4", 3450 RPM, pump and motor. To make it last longer, you should limit the cycling on and off as much as possible. This is where the Cycle Stop Valve comes in. Using at least a 20 gallon size tank with a CSV has proven to extend the life of pump systems by 3 or more times their average life.

I have a 148 ft well and the pump is at 80 ft the well is able to pump 35 gpm. The tank is set at 30 and 50 I think. Plus I have an irritation system, but I don’t know what they are pumping out because I have never seen them run, bought the house in the winter. I want to go to the ¾ because if we are taking a shower and want to do laundry then that would give us the capability because more water flow. Therefore wouldn’t the goulds 10GS07 be better than the 7GS07. But my tank is 32 gallons and I was told that a 15 gpm pump would need a bigger tank where the 10 or 12 gpm would be sufficient. The well guy said that the 10,000 rpm does make it brake down, but is there a std grundfos with only 3400 rpm.

I called one guy about the CSV and he stated that the CVS 150 is good because the one in the basement might start to leak, therefore he stated that I should use the one is the well hole. You are saying to use the CVS that attaches to the manifold (which I am trying to think were mine is, everyone has one right), plus you said to get a brass manifold. Does the CVS1W leak. And you are saying the the CVS1W is adjustable for the low flow times right, were the others cause to much energy.

Yes, the 10GS07 would be better.

No, you don't need a bigger tank.

Yes, Grundfos makes a good 3450 RPM pump. The model you need is a 10S07-12.

No, do not match your irrigation system to the pump. It might save you a couple bucks on the electric bill but, you will not be able to run anything else or take a shower while the sprinklers are on. Irrigation zones should be about 5 GPM less than the maximum output of the pump so you have a little water left to use elsewhere. Actually with the CSV, your irrigation zones can match the yard, not the pump.

No, it won't hurt the pump or use much power to let the pump run a couple of minutes after you shut off the sprinklers. The setting is not that critical.

No, don't put the pump any deeper if it is able to pump 35 GPM or even 15 GPM at the current depth.

You will have plenty of pump to be able to use the adjustable CSV. However, the plastic valve (CSV1-50) cost less and has less friction loss. So it would give you maximum efficiency, if that were even a problem, and it's not.

The CSV1-50 is the plastic valve that could develop a small leak. This valve should be installed in the well, outside, or just underground and cover it with gravel and dirt. The CSV1W is a brass valve that will not leak and can be installed inside or out. It would work fine in your application. Don't let BobNH confuse you about energy savings. If you don't have a regular manifold, just install the CSV before the tank, or before any water lines tee off from the main line.

what is better the 10GS07 goulds or the grundfos 10S07-12.
Plus I can get away with the CSV1-50, would the CSVW1 last longer and replace easier over the plastic inside the well CSV.
That makes since to me to make the irrigation 5gpm under the pump max. If I run it in the morning would matching it make since or is it going to be a problem if I am running laundry, shower, and facet at one time.

The plastic valve have been lasting a long time. I have some that are 15 years old and still working fine. The brass valve should last longer. Some similar valves used for pressure reducing have been working for decades, so who knows.

If you match the irrigation to the pump and run it in the morning, you won’t have any water left to run a shower. You can always be waiting to use the water or, you can install a CSV and always have your water waiting on you.