Where did he install this new check valve?
We had a 32gal pressured water tank and a 1/2 hp non-submersible pump. I think our well is approx 25 feet. Last week the bladder broke in the tank. My husband decided to increase our tank to a 82 gal and also installed a new 3/4 hp pump,along with a new check valve. The pressure switch came set for 30 and 50. However, the gauge reads the pump turns on at 28 and off at 48. (My husband thinks the gauge is not accurate and feels it is ok.) Our problem now is we are getting intervals of bursts of air through all of our faucets. It's interfering alot with doing laundry as the washing machine sounds like it's straining to fill, then we run around the house and open all the faucets and the water flows normally. Someone told us that the air in the line is normal for a while after installation, but I would think that after a little over a week that it would be functioning properly. Any suggestons would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. We have always been on city water until we bought this house 2 1/2 years ago, so we are really unfamiliar with all of this.
Thanks so much.
Last edited by lucymo; 03-17-2008 at 03:43 AM. Reason: Need to add more info
Where did he install this new check valve?
He's at the store getting more plumbing supplies, but he told me there are 2 check valves and they are both on the suction line coming from the well up to the pump. He said he only replaced one of them. (The house came with 2 on the original line.) They are both pvc vertical type check valves. The entire water system is in a closet in our patio, so it's just enough space for the tank and pump and water heater. The pump sits on top of the tank and the chaeck valves are near the floor.
Last edited by lucymo; 03-17-2008 at 10:21 AM.
The only check valve should be in the well on the bottom of the suction pipe. No more check valves are needed and shouldn't be used. This is for safety concerns.
What is the safety concern with the check valve at the tank end of the well line?
and what does the check valve have to do with the air in their lines?
When you put a check valve in the house or near the tank instead of having only one at the submersible pump you open yourself up for the possibility of contamination. Using a check valve at the tank leaves the entire distribution line under a vacuum once the pump shuts off. If there were a leak in your horizontal pipe and the check valve at the pump failed; any water in the ground possibly polluted with feces or any other unsavory nasties can be drawn into that pipe and fed to the house in the next pump cycle. Having that check valve at the tank can also mask a problem in the distribution piping.
I need to put this in an FAQ, I must have typed this answer a hundred times.
Then you should send that FAQ to the DEQ in all 50 states. Some of them still require a check valve above ground, between the well head and pressure tank. In the same sentence they usually say you must keep the underground line from ever seeing a negative pressure. As you just said, the check valve above ground is what causes the underground line to be under a negative pressure.
I was told that at least in the state of Texas, that the laws were written in 1952 and that it would take an act of legislation to get them changed. The way they control some city water systems also lets the underground pipelines see negative pressures. With pharmaceutical drugs and other things being found in our water supplies, that their high doses of chlorine won't kill, you would think the engineers would eventually figure this out.
I fully agree. I have a cute little program that saves you a lot of key strokes by entering a few letters and hitting Enter do all the typing for you. I used it again today.
Lucymo- You say that your husband thinks the gauge is not accurate--one way to check this is when the pump has shut off at full pressure(48 for you) take the air gauge and check the pressure in the tank. It will tell you how much pressure you have there and then you will know if your gauge is right or not. Also did he check the air in the tank when he installed it to make sure you have the right amount---26lbs if your pump is starting at 28?
Thanks for the detailed explanation of why the tank-side check valve is a bad idea. You had answered some questions I had about 1.5 years ago when I was changing the pump and drop-line. I believe you said the same thing then (about removing the check-valve), but I didn't understand what the risk was. I've just recently changed the horizontal line running out to the well cap (found a bad splice in the line that was letting air in). I will be finishing up the inside work this weekend and I will remove the check valve.