Am I ready for glue?

Here's the final product, Take #1:

The first thing to hit the editing room floor will probably be that 2x2x2 tee (off the 4x4x2 tee) heading to the pedistal sink vent.
From looking at many DWV drawings, I am off the opinion that that 2" heading down will not have the volume for the 1st flr. venting which includes the toilet, sink and shower...I think I should have a 4x4x3 to a 3x2x3...the 3" will head down and split to 2 2" vents: one for toilet; one for sink/shower.
This is just my own opinion...and may be incorrect...hopefully, you good people will correct me.

Other than that, I think I might have finally won this battle.

Here's some pictures for commentary:







The text came out kind of distorted for some reason...
- the stub up is the vent and will tie back into the main stack at 96" AFF using a 1/4 bend and a 4x4x2 tee.
- the "dead man" will be for the shower/tub waste line.

...and that's that.

What say you? Glue or back in the hole?

Hopefully I have finally gotten this thing right. One thing is for sure, I would not have gotten this close to being "right" without your time and help.

glue

I am still not sure about that double "Y". Technically, because it is a toilet it will work, but an inspector might not like the additional drop before it connects to the vent.

Well, if not the double wye...then what?
You guys already put the ki-bosh on my 4x cross.

glue

It would help if we were there to actually see the entire system. Since there is no 4" double fixture fitting. a sanitary tee for the toilet and a 4x2 "Y" below it for the tub, may be the way to go. Use a 4" street tee and it will glue directly into the "Y". And if you are still pressed for space, a 4x2" street "Y" will glue into the 90 elbow.

I only know the UPC: The 4x2 vent tee needs to go in 'upside down' since it is a vent. The 2" size for vents is fine under any circumstance. If this is a remodel, and there are other vents in the house the stack only needs to be 2" total. The UPC states total vent area must equal total required drain area. Up to three toilets only require 3" drain, only when you add a fourth toilet does it need to be 4".

The 4x double wye is not allowed, as said in other's post. It has to be a sanitary tee for the vent to work properly and the shower drain has to come from below the toilet tee. Also, the vent on the shower drain needs to be a 'combo' on its' back not a 'tee'. ALSO on that same shower drain the quarter bend needs to be a 'long sweep' not a regular quarter bend.

Off subject, how do you do pictures with writing and lines superimposed?

hj said:

...but an inspector might not like the additional drop before it connects to the vent.

Click to expand...

breplum said:

I only know the UPC

Click to expand...

UPC...IPC....How about the NSPC?
I just called the building dept. and was informed NJ follow's the "National Standard Plumbing Code". How does that factor in here?

breplum said:

Off subject, how do you do pictures with writing and lines superimposed?

Click to expand...

Just use some photo editing software. These particular pix were edited with Microsoft Picture It! Photo Premium 9.

To tell you what one I used for all the many other pix, would not really be possible. I Can tell you what programs I have used for all these pictures:

- Print Shop 6.0 ~ has some photo editing capabilities; used heavily, especially writing on images. Cost $20 5 years ago.

- Microsoft Picture It! Photo Premium 9 ~ came with my computer (bought 8/04); I used this for 90% of my "drawings". I also started using this in place of Printshop, the menus are easier to navigate. Cost $1500, but came with a P4 3.4ghz computer (it was bundled with XP and the rest)

- Adobe Photo Deluxe Home Edition 3.1 ~ came with an Epson Printer, the least used program. Cost +/- $100...but came with Epson Photo Stylus 870 (sometime in 2002?). I use this product the least as it is a PITA.

The MS product, I actually find to be the best for what I am doing.