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Thread: securing shower base

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default securing shower base

    Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and is good to be here, thanks!

    I'm sure this is no brainer for those of you who know their stuff but I don't have a clue...

    I'm installing a MAAX (Neo-Angle) corner shower unit and I've just popped the base on top of the drain and completed the drain installation. The manual tells me to go on and glue the wall panels on. Doesn't the base somehow get screwed against the studs first? or the only thing that holds the base against the wall the is the drain itself?

    any help on this would be much appreciated!

    thanks

    Gord
    Last edited by Gord; 03-10-2008 at 07:36 PM.

  2. #2
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking the best path to take

    you have probably got some el-cheap-o shower base
    from some hardware store for 200 bucks with the glass wall kit included

    thats ok.....see them all the time

    If you do this right the first time you are going to save yourself
    a lot of misery and greif


    the first thing you must do is USE A LEVEL to see if the base or floor
    falling in any directioin....

    You MUST level the base
    or you could end up with a 1/2 inch
    of water always standing in one of the corners not
    wanting to flow into the drain like you want it to....


    then you need to level up the base and its a good idea to
    put some soupy concrete sand mix under the base to help level it up....

    once you find your level groove for front back and center and have got it sitting in concrete.....then you can drill the
    lip with a small drill bit and use some sort of brass drywall
    screws to secure the base to the walls

    sometimes its better to have the front lip off the ground a 1/2 inch
    sitting in concrete if that makes it level
    rather than to have a slope to the front of the ne-o-angle shower.

    You can always shim up and hide the
    concrete and gap in the front with plastic trim
    if necessary


    also...if you dont make it at least close to level,
    when you finally put up the

    el-cheap -o glass shower doors and walls ,
    it will be hell to pay to get them to sit correctly on the base....

    you can end up with a 1/2 inch gap on some conrer
    that you cant do a thing with...except fill in with a thick
    load of silicone to keep it from leaking


    good luck

    have fun

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default

    thanks mark,

    the floor was not too bad, the base was sitting level on all but two small spots which i shimmed. i will, like you said, pick up a few brass screws and fasten the base to the studs.

    "...you have probably got some el-cheap-o shower base
    from some hardware store for 200 bucks with the glass wall kit included."

    this was a pretty good guess, however for your information,i walked right past the el-cheapo-o for 200 bucks and forked out 180 for the complete el-crap-o model.

    gord
    Last edited by Gord; 03-12-2008 at 11:55 AM.

  4. #4
    Plumber krow's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gord View Post
    this was a pretty good guess, however for your information,i walked right past the el-cheapo-o for 200 bucks and forked out 180 for the complete el-crap-o model.

    goran
    ROTFLMAO, good come back

    I always try to fasten the base to the studs after the cement dries under the base just to avoid unwanted squeeking noises.

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Even a thick base can crack and flex if it is not fully supported...shims may keep the edges in place, but you stand all over the base...it needs support there too. That's why it is often suggested to embed it in the cement...sort of like setting a tile in mortar. Keeps things nice and level and makes it feel much more substantial and lasts longer. Nothing more annoying than the base flexing and possibly squeaking while in it and it doesn't do anything good for the finish - stress cracks can occur quickly.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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