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Thread: Mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucet.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jtarbox's Avatar
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    Default Mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucet.

    I have two Mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucets and one of them will no longer shut off. The only way I can now shut it off is by turning it off from the inside. Water just pours out of the faucet when it is off just as if it was still turned all the way on. I have tried taking off the gray anti-syphon cap as well as the parts under it. Everything looks fine to me. I have also removed the handle to the faucet and foot long rod attached to it. Things look OK there also, to me. Can someone tell me what exactly I should be looking for?

  2. #2

    Default Mansfield hydrant

    Sounds like you have the 500 series wall hydrant. The repair kit 630-7755 should have the parts needed to repair your faucet if it is repairable.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n500repair.jpg
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  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member jtarbox's Avatar
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    Default Mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucet

    Yes, I believe you are correct. At least it looks very much like the diagram to me. Does this repair kit usually stop this problem of essentially the water "not shutting off" even though the faucet is off? It is not simply leaking out of the cap. It continues to run (not leak) out the spout. If this is indeed the correct kit, do you know what would have caused this type of problem? Thank you for your help.

  4. #4

    Default

    There could be any number of things causing the problem. Without actually looking at it myself I couldn't tell you if the repair kit would definitely solve your problem. The 630-7500 kit has the repair parts for when the faucet is leaking out of the cap (vacuum breaker assembly). The repair kit I previously mentioned (630-7755) will have all the remaining replacement seals and parts such as the packing gland and packing nut for leaks around the handle and also bibb washer and screw and o-rings for leaks as you mentioned. For the faucet to leak such a large amount I would generally think the bibb screw has backed out / the bibb washer has broken / or some other debris (such as the bibb screw or rust particles) is stuck between the bibb washer and seat. In which case if there is something between the bibb washer and seat and you tightened the handle down very tight to stop the leak, you could have damaged the seat and may require to replace the entire faucet.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member jtarbox's Avatar
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    Well, your information gives me a good place to start. Thanks again.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member capsule1's Avatar
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    Cool leaking mansfield outdoor faucet

    I have one of the 500 series mansfield outdoor faucets that leaks under the plastic cap. I have read some of the posts about these faucets and would like to know how to take off the plastic cap. I have already bought the replacement parts for it but I don't want to repair it until I am sure that I don't mess something up by taking the plastic cap off wrong.

  7. #7

    Default

    When you pulled out the foot long stem,did you have a good look inside to where it seats (One foot in!) and make sure a stray peice of solder or debris from the supply is not caught there?

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member capsule1's Avatar
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    Default mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucet

    the vacuum breaker cap is the part I need to know how to get off. Do you just take a screw driver and pop off the cap to get to the parts underneath to replace them? I am just trying to figure out the best way to replace this unit of parts.

  9. #9

    Default

    Often the vacuum break only needs a little cleaning. You can also turn the rubber seat washer upside down.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member luv2rallye's Avatar
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    Default Different Mansfield anti-syphon outdoor faucet leak

    I also have the Mansfield 500 series wall hydrant. Mine just won't shut off completely. It still has a significant dribble (small stream?) coming out the normal place (it does not come out the cap or knob). It slows down the tighter I turn the knob but never completely shuts off. I have replaced all the stem items (seat washer, back flow washer, bibb washer, screw, o-rings, packing, bonnet) twice with the correct replacement kits. Also turned the seat washer over. Also tryed using stem from different faucet but same thing. Then I bought a new 12" complete stem with same results. The only thing I noticed is on the seat washer there ends up being some very tiny teeth marks. All of this tells me the problem is in the seat 12" back in the tube. I cannot replace the entire thing as it is soldered in and behind finished off downstairs room/ceiling (which I don't want to destroy). I temporarily just have a ball cock shut off valve attached to it which works but I'd like to fix the real problem if possible (especially since winters are cold here in Mn and don't want to leave water in the tube). I tryed inserting a long screwdriver and scraping off the seat. The remains of what looks like a black bib washer came out but the identical problem is still there. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also what is the shape of the seat back in the tube? Does anyone have any pictures/diagrams or even just describe it? Thanx.

  11. #11
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    Default

    Getting in there with that screw driver could have compromised the seat. (gouged, nicked, scraped) Replacement time.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member luv2rallye's Avatar
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    Default

    I realized that but it was pretty obvious that the seat was already damaged since I had replaced everything else so I had nothing to loose. Plus when looking in there, it's hard to tell, but it appeared there might be some solder or something stuck on it. So I had to try scraping it off (lightly). I had an idea of fastening a small sanding/grinding disc on the end of an old stem to try to smooth off the seat but not knowing the shape of it I thought I better ask here first.

  13. #13
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    Why play around...
    Replace it!

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member luv2rallye's Avatar
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    Default

    Well I'd have to tear out the finished off downstairs ceiling to even get at it. Not an option. Even leaving the ball cock shut off valve attached is better than that. The plumber who did all the original piping didn't have one of the other outside faucet pipes sloping downward all the way to the wall to drain the water. It burst open twice (once each year) inside the wall and flooded my finished off basement each time before I could figure out what was going on even though I drained it properly. So I now have to connect my compressor every fall to blow that one out anyway. I naturally then just blow them all out (so this one isn't really going to freeze either) which is why tearing out the ceiling to replace it just isn't worth it. But I'd still like to try and fix it without replacement if possible (so it will work wthout having to use the ball cock valve attached and in case I or the next owner forgets/doesn't blow it out). So does anyone know the shape of the seat back in the tube? Is there a tool that can reseat it?
    Last edited by luv2rallye; 08-23-2008 at 10:20 AM.

  15. #15

    Smile DIY success

    After having a pro “repair” my leaking Mansfield 500 series sillcock for $104, not only did it require too much pressure to close, the valve stem could be unscrewed beyond the threads inside the pipe! Turning the water off after turning it “full on” involved pushing in on the knob while turning so the stem threads would catch inside.

    I lived with this for a while but then the water started coming out of the handle (while on) and my wife could no longer close the valve tight. So I researched it, found this forum and purchased the 630-7755 repair kit.

    In performing the repair I discovered that the plumber failed to insert the washer behind the packing (the reason why the valve would open too far and leak around the knob) and failed to add the seat washer (the reason excessive force was needed to stop the flow). WTH?

    I was also surprised by the lack of documentation on the web or within the kit regarding how to perform the repair. Can you say trade protectionism? The diagram on this forum thread was the best documentation I could find and helped a lot.

    Thanks Terry, and thanks to the contributors of this thread. My sillcock is like new again.

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