Metal vs Plastic Pump?

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Yar02169

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Hello All-

My well currently uses a first class Flotec 1 hp pump with a plastic pump housing for my irrigation system. Sitting in my basement I have a Water Ace 1 hp that has a metal pump housing.

I'm thinking of switching to the Water Ace because it has the metal pump housing instead of the plastic one found on the Flotec.

The Water Ace pump needs to be rebuilt, so I'm asking if there is any advantage/difference between the metal and plastic housings? Is metal better than plastic, or should I use what I have and keep the other as a back up?

I'm thinking that I can paint the metal pump white to match the house, whereas the plastic pump won't hole paint as well, if at all.

I value you input over the metal vs plastic issue.

Thanks,
Ray
 

Speedbump

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First class and Flotec or Water Ace shouldn't be used in the same sentence.

They are both substandard pumps. That said, the Myers (Water Ace) is a far better pump than the Sta-Rite (Flotec) in that it's the same pump as the Myers; except for the motor. You will notice the air holes in the motor go all the way around. I'm not sure if it's because they think a little rain now and then will help cool the undersized motor or if they thought it would pass more air.

The Flotec is not like any other pump (this is a good thing), but the motor used on it is probably better than the Water Ace.

To answer your question, the cast iron will hold the paint better. You can feel safe that the paint will outlast the motor.

Sorry to be so cynical, but that's just the way it is.

bob...
 

Yar02169

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Thanks Bob. I was aware of the reputation that the Flotec pump has, but since I now own it, I'll have to use it until it decides to visit the pump graveyard in the back woods. The Water Ace pump was inherited from my parents house in Florida after it sprung a small seal leak; I only grabbed it because I was hoping that it was better in quality, partly due to the metal housing.
Do you think it's possible to mate the Water Ace pump to the Flotec motor? If I can mate the two better parts, I could end up with a FloAce pump! I'll have to take a closer look, they are similar in design.
Either way, I think I'll order a rebuild kit for the Water Ace, and use the lesser of two evils this year. Thanks for the honest opinion. I did use the 'first class' comment with sarcasm, knowing that the Flotec didn't deserve it. Now I know that the Water Ace doesn't either....
 

Speedbump

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[Do you think it's possible to mate the Water Ace pump to the Flotec motor? If I can mate the two better parts, I could end up with a FloAce pump! I'll have to take a closer look, they are similar in design./QUOTE]

I think you will find the motors are the same except that Myers did a dirty trick by making the shaft threads a little smaller than the Flotec. So they won't mate with the impellers.

bob...
 

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56J is a frame size. Just like 48J. We sell the 56 frame because they cool better and are capacitor run not capacitor start. No start points, switches or start caps. They actually pull less amps than their identical brother with the same horsepower.

A couple pump companies have over the years changed their thread sizes for the C-Flange and Square flange motors from 7/16" to 1/2" and vice versa. Dirty trick, but they do it just the same. Myers is the biggest offender that I have seen.

So much for NEMA.

bob...
 

Raucina

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Yes, Myers has screwed the public with its jet and booster pump motor threads. Notice the Nema 56j with an "s "after it [special] it means the mfgr is a special %^$#- head-$%#(*^$%#$ - hole

It takes a while on the bench for the unsuspecting to figure the difference on the threads and why the damn thing wont rethread [1/2" vs 7/16"]

off the shelf, 75$ motor is 250$ from Myer. I beat the devils by swapping rotor and stator with the $75 motor and getting it to run again. Next time the pump hits the copper bin.
 

Yar02169

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Thanks for the info. I doubt I would have noticed the thread difference visually until I had both pumps broken down, scratching my head as to why my plan wasn't working. You saved me time, and I appreciate it.
I don't necessarily want these pumps to fail on me, but when they do, I will purchase a more reputable brand.
Live and learn.
I did call Water Ace to order a rebuild kit, and the girl advised me that I may get better pricing at my local Lowe's store. Lowe's only has the seal kit listed on line, so I'll have to visit a store to see about the impeller kit, but their price is 50% less than the Water Ace quote, and no $15 shipping charge!
 

Wet_Boots

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Just to clarify, if a motor is 56J and no suffix, will it be interchangeable with other 'standard' 56J motors?
 

Speedbump

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I have asked questions about the j and the c and other designations and never got a straight answer from anyone. It seems to be a mystery.

I do know when you see the S it stands for special. Which in my opinion means to the builder of the pump unit; "Go ahead and call it anything you want to." It's really a 3/4hp in reality according to it's weight and size, but we know that people like to get something bigger than they paid for, so go ahead and call it a 4 horsepower if you like.

Maybe BobNH can answer this one for us. Cause I don't have a clue.

bob...
 

Wet_Boots

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I think the 'S' maybe stands for "You're screwed" - just a scheme to lock the consumer into proprietary replacement parts? I wonder how much they can actually save by going out of standard NEMA spec.

(My question hearkens back to the thread about replacing the 3/4 HP 56J motor on a Goulds J7S with a capacitor-start capacitor-run high-efficiency 3/4 HP motor of equal service factor, with the idea of running the pump on an existing 15A branch circuit that also ran some lights)
 

Speedbump

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That should work. Goulds as far as I know hasn't done any of these underhanded things yet. They are owned by ITT so it probably won't be long.

bob...
 

Yar02169

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Bob-

I sent you an e-mail regarding you being a Myers distributor. Lowes doesn't seem to carry rebuild parts in the Boston area...
 
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