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I can understand you worrying about getting injured, but you can actually lessen the toll it takes on your body very easily, it just takes working at it. I am 53, not that young anymore but, I found 10 years ago, when the big C started to make me weak I needed to make my body stronger. So, I started to excercise more. Through so many health problems, which include the Big C and actually, heart problems due to the chemos, (3 heart attacks) I have managed to pull it all together and now, thankfully, I am pretty strong. I am not gloating here, just trying to set an example it can be done. You can turn it around, especially at your age. Buy an excercise bike & treadmill and put it in your garage. It really works. Then you will be able to whip those suckers up & over your head without a worry. I had a father who was the strongest man I ever knew. At age 61 he could lift a sofa up and over his head, by himself. His brother walked at least 10 miles a day. It is fun to change your lifestyle around andI like to challenge myself. I am going to run one year in the Boston Marathon and Heartbreak Hill is a big challenge ask any New Englander. Just do it Rugged for 6 months, see what happens. You have nothing to lose.
Last edited by Cookie; 02-26-2008 at 10:50 AM.
So Rugged, What you're saying is you don't need the hernia, or, the blown out back! If it's bigger than a 60 and not a walkout basement I'm including a second guy! I'll include a second even on a smaller one if access is difficult!
You don't make money lying on your back! If the job is going to put you on your back being underbid is a good thing. If they are that cheap they don't have as much to lose!
Last edited by Redwood; 02-26-2008 at 09:59 AM.
Oh, so true Redwood, especially the gas ones, those are HEAVY. The electrics aren't so bad though. But, I don't lug them around either, lol.
I reckon, those gas ones would be a 2 man job. Don't you guys use dollies? It is less on the knees and back.
Last edited by Cookie; 02-26-2008 at 10:47 AM.
Rugged gas heaters are clean and easy
the State power vent was not available in town
so I had to install a Bradford white and get a credit
from state to compensate me for the white heater.....
all in all about $400...for labor
another Bradford white today 40 gal $975
another brad 50 today $700....
service call for $250.....
we did not leave our office till 9.30am
got home at 5......and one guy called in sick too....
Rugged .....water heaters can really add up very quickly.
but I think you were traumatized at an early age..
I agree with you about the hardware stores
I will never do them for any hardware store..no way....
that is like being chinese slave labor.
I dont like to do the 75 gallons anymore
I always like to throw the 75 gallon heaters located
down in a finished walk up stairs basement to
LOWES or HD....
those guys have to install them for about $170......
I figure this will kill my competition eventually......
But..........
It's the most priced shopped fixture in plumbing.......at least it is in my office.
Standing for long periods of time on concrete increases my med intake as well......can wear out my liver.
It just feels so good to say no. No more worrying about hitting walls or dripping tanks on the carpet.
What cracks me up is when I say no and they act shocked. Then try to hustle a price out of me. The phone accidentally hangs up at that point.
WhooopS!
Read what the end of this sentence means.
but...............
It is much , much easier than rolling around in sewage
in a crawlspace all day
its much easier than wrestling a sewage cable
covered in crap..laying in it whil you are pulling roots back
that actually scare the customer...
that is something I cant stand is being shopped for the
lowest price to come out and clean out a drain
being shopped to re-set a toilet....
haggeling with someone over 15 dollars ect
it happens with everything....
I just dont like the dirt.....
Originally Posted by master plumber mark
Okay dammit.......
I'm putting in a 40 gallon RHEEM PowerVent next week. Sheesh! And a water softener to boot. Me thinks another WATERBOSS!!!
The property owner has an hourly servant that is going to do the manual labor of lifting drilling and going to the hospital after he pulls this old water heater out of the basement. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm just the canned brains for the job.
Read what the end of this sentence means.
Rheem FV Sensor
I just replace a Rheem power vent Vapor Sensor. The list price was $13.40. Could you tell me where you were charged that much for the part?
My local Rheem dealer in Cincinnati. I was not charged that but I called them to see what the cost was thinking I might just buy one if the part was inexpensive enough to warrant just buying one instead of waiting for one to be shipped because it was under warranty, in order to get hot water to my customer sooner.
Where did you buy one for $13.40? I'll buy 2-3 and keep them on the truck if I can get them that cheap.
Last edited by Cass; 02-28-2008 at 07:00 PM.
Well I called Rheem today and asked how much a FVS would cost me and I was told that since I didn't have an account that I would have to pay with a CC and it would be $57.90.
If I had an account it would be much less.
I then called back to my Rheem Dealer and they confirmed that their price was 157.00.
WOW is all I can say.
FV Sensor
I think the confusion is that there are actually three parts to what they call the "assembly." One is the sensor, which is what typically fails. Two is the small, white plastic retainer that receives the sensor, then clips into the base of the water heater. Three is the wiring harness. The 2008 Rheem parts list, page 26, shows the FV Sensor, #AP13447, at a cost of $13.40. (Other manufacturers who use Robertshaw seem to also include the entire gas valve in the pricing, assuming I suppose that you should just start from scratch when you have an emergency shut-down.)
Here's how I got the customer hot water overnight: According to Rheem/GE tech support, if you do an ohmeter test of the sensor, it should read between 9 and 44 K ohms. (The one I did last week read slightly low.) At Radio Shack I bought a "five pack" of 33 K ohm resistors, which set me back $.99. That's right, five for a buck. Install one of the resistors in place of the sensor, then follow the re-setting sequence. The heater will fire up. Please remember, this is only a temporary "fix" and will not provide the safety protection necessary. I only did it so that my customer wouldn't have a cold shower the next morning. We were able to buy the sensor from our supplier, then return the warranty-supplied sensor that was shipped to our customer.
That is a great tip. Could you tell me the exact Radio shack part you used? was it http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062332 ? I have the same dire need and with the labor day holiday, the client is very upset. If I could come up with a temp fix like this it would be fantastic! I just need to make sure the voltage for the resistor is right.
That doesn't sound like very safe advice...
I'd pass on this tip!
I tried that trick this morning and nothing... same error condition. Anyone have any other ideas?
Call a plumber to troubleshoot the water heater and repair it as needed.
Bypassing safety devices with a water heater is not a good direction to go.
If the problem is the overfiring sensor it is a non repairable, non replaceable item and a new water heater is required. The plumber should be able to troubleshoot the unit and determine the problem.
Your safety depends on proper operation of this water heater.
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