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Thread: PF/2 Energizer-actuater valve breaks

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member wm paris's Avatar
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    wow i followed what you did and it really worked out good just hope it last..thnx alot aardvark for the good idea..on re using the broken actuator valve on the discontinued pf2 energizer tank model 150-403
    Last edited by wm paris; 12-05-2009 at 03:30 PM.

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member mark402's Avatar
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    Default Here was my Fix

    So I followed Mr Aardvark's suggestion, but instead of going out for the brass screw and drilling all of the way through, this is what I did...
    I used the threaded part of a concrete anchor. I use these when I mount security cameras onto masonry. Anyway, I used his idea of heating a screwdriver tip and letting it melt into the broken off piece. It easily backed out. The threaded anchor that I had was the exact same thread. So all I had to do was carefully and gradually drill out the other side (the other piece). Once it was drilled to the proper size, I tapped it out to so it was threaded. Before I started drilling, I had assembled the broken pieces and measured them so I know what length I was looking for. Now that I was all treaded and tapped on both sides, I simply screwed both pieces onto my threaded rod. I had drilled the depth perfectly so when I snugged it down it was the right length. I put all back together and it has been working for a month flawlessly. You can get a great idea what I did from the picture. My question is, why in the hell couldn't the engineers who designed this thing figure out this simple solution? Now instead of plastic, I have a heavy-duty steel flush actuator!
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  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member smauro's Avatar
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    I just found out if you go to www.pf2parts.com you can order parts on line. The repair kit which was the only available part is now $212. This is the biggest ripoff I have ever seen. You can know buy the part that breaks for $44. Still a huge ripoff. The fixes above seem to be the most resonable for those of us who can do that kinda stuff. For anyone else I would suggest replacement of your toilet and get away from these power flush models.

    http://pf2.tapcogenuinepartscenter.com/
    Last edited by Terry; 11-05-2010 at 04:48 PM.

  4. #19
    Comments by readers Reader Review's Avatar
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    Terry,
    I purchased three PF2 toilets several years ago. They have been terrible! The mechanisms are fine, but the flushing system doesn't work . The handles fall off constantly. I replaced one not long ago with a TOTO, but am left with two. Now, one of them has broken. The plunger in the top that goes in the side of the gasket has broken and come out of the unit. It looks like you have to buy the entire rebuild kit if you are going to fix that one little piece. The rebuild kit costs $213.00. Is there any other way to repair this toilet?
    - Steevun L

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member charlottaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thepartsguy View Post
    The PF2 is no longer made for a reason. As for parts, WC Tech (makers of PF2s) has shut off all supply of parts to its suppliers and is now just dealing in warranty parts to end users. (till they run out). Sad too, I was making money hand over fist on these parts. I do stock the Flushmate change out for both Crane and Eljer.

    I bought a condo that has this toilet but the trip lever (left hand) is missing. The chain and 1 hook is here but it needs 2 hooks. Anywhere to buy these locally or do I need to order online somewhere? Thanks!

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member Timothy1960's Avatar
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    Default PF/2 Energizer Valving Schematics Needed

    PF/2 Energizer Valving Schematics Needed after friend took it apart and I'm stuck reassembling his mess. I'm having trouble figuring out the inlet side.

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member aardvark_rich's Avatar
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    AArdvark_Rich here...I finally decided to give my second PF/2 the heave-ho - note, this is the one with the Factory IMproved Design Flush Valve (with adjustable screw actuator deally) - The valve body would not seal - even after replacing the hold-down screws with "larger diameter" screws and then finally installing brass inserts - it would work for a few days and then start whinning again - I found the Sloan Flushmate retrofit kit on-line for $119 shipped - installed in 20 minutes and provides the delivery service that the effluent treatment plant desires.

    Funny thing is, the other toilet is the one I fixed, as detailed in an earlier post (a design dutifully improved by another MacGuyver-type). It still works. Go Figure!

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member roverdog's Avatar
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    Aardvark_Rich....,

    Thanks for the GREAT solution to this problem!! We've had this toilet for about four years, and for the most part it has been "working" fine (few annoying problems with the handle falling off, and the flush valve "leaking"..., but the pressure assist worked great. Haven't used a plunger in four years).

    Anyway, finally the actuator shaft did break, and I wasn't about to spend $124 (or now $200) on a replacement tank, or even $44 for a new valve. I implemented your idea for $1.53 (brass screw and fitting) and so far it is working great!! I did however, have to make one modification to your fix. I had to add a small amount of epoxy to the brass fitting just to seal it. Without that, I was getting a slight pressure leak through the pin and brass fitting, and the tank would never stop "gurgling". Anyway, that did the trick.

    Thanks again for saving me a couple hundred bucks!!!!

    Roverdog

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member blackknife's Avatar
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    Question

    I have 2 Elger PF2 toilets. One of them was nothing but trouble starting about 6 months after installation. I had to constantly take out the little red ball, clean it & reinstall it to get a good flush. The other never gave me issues until recently. It started leaking from the water supply stub where the braided supply line connects to. I have removed it, and replaced the inside gasket numerous times, but even after putting teflon tape on the threads and flange it still leaks. I have also replaced my braided supply line, so that's not it. It leaks right where the stub comes out of the bottom of the tank. Also, is it normal for there to be water in the tank? There is usually about an inch of water in it.

    Does anyone know where I can get JUST the black supply line/threaded inlet/nut/gasket that can be seen in the RK 150 kit (bottom right corner of pic below)? I don't need anything else from this kit, and I can't see paying so much money for the entire kit. I'll replace the toilet before I do that. $120 seems a bit steep for a couple of gaskets, hose, plastic and cartridge when you can buy a descent new toilet for a few bucks more


    Thanks,
    Jeff

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member Oneunder's Avatar
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    Hello folks.
    I have a Crane 3612 retrofit with a Flushmate unit and am now in need of a replacement trip lever mechanism.
    I called Flushmate in detroit and was told to call American Standard.
    I called American Standard and they do not carry the part.
    What good is a Flushmate unit if you can't get the tank lever and inside rod?
    Does anyone know of a dealer in Canada or the U.S. that may handle these?
    Thanks

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member Cate's Avatar
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    Default This mechanism exploded and flooded my house

    I know this is an old thread, but I was searching for information about the PF/2 Energizer assisted flush toilet mechanism. We had this toilet for as long as we've lived in our house which is 6 years. I don't know how old the toilet is, because it was there when we bought the house.

    Last weekend it literally exploded and flooded the house. We know it exploded because it was in shards, as well as the ceramic lid to the tank was also in shards, and water poured out for hours until it was discovered by our dog walker. (we were out of town, of course!)

    Question is: Has anyone ever heard of such a thing? We are working with insurance on the damage, but does anyone know of any recalls or other such incidents?

    One thought our contractor had was that the water pressure from the city spiked and that's what caused the mechanism to explode.

  12. #27
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Insurance will cover everything except the deductible. It won't pay for the plumbing, just the damage that the plumbing caused.
    Has a pressure assist toilet done that before?

    Yes.

    And that pressure assist manufacturer went out of business years ago.

  13. #28
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I would avoid like the plague any pressure assisted toilet other than the ones that use the Sloan Flushmate system....
    I don't care much for them but the track record of every other company that has made one is pitiful in comparison...

    The only repair I would do on one is the Sloan Upgrade....
    Or, replacement of the toilet with a fine new Toto Toilet...

  14. #29
    DIY Member BlueHouse's Avatar
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    only the ecoflush will work. The energizer and wdi ecoflush are on the list of fail pressure chambers!

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member abutler80's Avatar
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    Default PF2 Model: 150-403 problem toilet

    I recently bought a house with this toilet installed in the second floor bathroom. It leaks when flushed. It looks as though the leak is coming form the rubber seal under the toilet tank itself. I have replaced this seal with one bought from Lowes. It is still leaking, I do not see any cracks or other reasons for the leak. My question is do I need a special seal due to this being a high pressure tank? I was so fed up with it at one point that I purchased a new (regular) tank and installed it. It would not flush at all! So I figure this was the reason that the high pressure one was installed upstairs. Having acquired this property as a foreclosure I am unsure if the toilet ever functioned properly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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