Need sump pump and questions

I have been reading information on this website about different sump pumps. I understand that Zoeller is the preferred, but my question is regarding in the M53 and BN53. Can I adjust the float level on both of these models? I think the M53 turns on with 7 inches of water in the basin and turns off at 3 inches, but does not mean I have to have a constant 3 inches of water in the basin?

I don't have a sump pump in my basement yet, but am going in to install one and want to get the best set up with the most user friendly.

Also I have read about putting a hole some where to avoid air lock. Where do I drill the hole and is it just for venting?

Zoeller told me that the M53 was the most popular, just set it in the pump basin and forget it as the switch is preset.

Thanks

Tom

ctkeebler said:

I have been reading information on this website about different sump pumps. I understand that Zoeller is the preferred, but my question is regarding in the M53 and BN53. Can I adjust the float level on both of these models? I think the M53 turns on with 7 inches of water in the basin and turns off at 3 inches, but does not mean I have to have a constant 3 inches of water in the basin?

I don't have a sump pump in my basement yet, but am going in to install one and want to get the best set up with the most user friendly.

Also I have read about putting a hole some where to avoid air lock. Where do I drill the hole and is it just for venting?

Zoeller told me that the M53 was the most popular, just set it in the pump basin and forget it as the switch is preset.

Thanks

Tom

Click to expand...

The M-53 is a good pump, but is not adjustable. IMHO - it has another weakness in that the switch can wear out too quickly (ex. 200,000 cycles or less) and does not have a piggyback plug design. This means that if your switch fails, you cannot manually operate your pump. The BN-53 is essentially the same pump unit but with the wide-angle tethered float instead. I believe this does employ a piggyback plug setup. The N-53 is basically the pump without any switch. Some of us like to install an SJE Rhombus vertical master switch with the N-53 (or other reliable pump). It allows a longer cycle (ex. close to 6 inches) and can be mounted on the vertical pipe stack wherever you want. This too would give you a piggyback setup.

I would not worry about always having a few inches in the bottom of your crock. Some people like to set the pump on a couple bricks to help keep it above the sediment that can accumulate on the bottom. As far as the hole, make sure it is below the checkvalve, typically a few inches above the pvc connector to your pump. It is intended to prevent "airlock" in your line. Some manufacturers like Hydromatic have a built in hole in the pump housing itself to prevent airlock. Good luck!

I agree with most of the above!

As for as there being 3" of water left in the pit, the impeller in this pump is 3" from the bottom of the legs! That means even if you use a tethered switch and you have it set to the bottom of the pit, it is going to continuiously run the pump because the pump doesn't reach the water down that low. Of course if this happens, you will burn the pump up.

The 3 inches of water quickly disappears. I have small holes in my sump pit that let water in and out as the groundwater level rises and falls (and then of course drains that enter the sump for the heavy stuff).

Ian

I was looking at a package deal with the basin and the pump. It appears that the basin does not have any holes except a large hole on one side. Or at least this is what it looks like in the picture. Can I just use a drill and drill holes in teh sides and bottom?

Seems like everybody has a different opinion on the type of pump. I though that the N53 would be too crowded in the basin with the attached vertical pump.

Is it not a good idea to put the pump on a brink in the basin as from one of the replies it looks like it places the pump too high for the float.

Thank everybody for their help. Just want to get the right set up before I cut a hole in my floor.

It's your basin, you can do what ever you want with it! Some people drill holes, some people just cut slits in the sides with a skill saw! You can do what ever works best for your application!

I guess my question is, is it common practice or recommended that additional holes/cuts/slits are made in the basin? I would think that holes around the sides and bottom would allow easier access for the water into the basin

There is one hole in the side of the basin for a pipe, such as would be used to collect water from a drain or sewer. Sometimes it is plugged and you would have to knock out the plug to use it. Leave the plug in place if you aren't connecting to a pipe.

If the basin is to be immersed in the floor and collect water that exists at that location under the floor, then you need a hole (or holes) at the bottom and/or low on the sides.

Dig the hole a little deeper than the basin and put some stone in the bottom. Then put some holes in the bottom of the basin that are too small for the stone to come through. Add some more holes around the side just an inch or two off the bottom. You can use the Skil Saw method but if you do that keep the slots short because it weakens the side if you are left with narrow strips. I prefer bored holes. Don't go up too far from the bottom or the basin will be susceptible to collapse from backfill.

Set the basin on the stone and then add some more stone around the sides to keep it in place. That stone will tend to filter the sand that may be under the floor and keep it from collapsing around the basin.