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Thread: Basement Shower Remodel

  1. #1

    Default Basement Shower Remodel

    I have an existing 1.5" shower drain that was in a sunken 30" tiled shower stall. The shower floor was about 1.5" lower than the rest of the floor.

    I want to install a 48" single piece shower. (I already have it in the house and have access to the bathroom through a closet I removed).

    The house was built in 1973. I have been using the shower up until the remodel with no problems (other than small shower and bad tile) ie drainage etc. I assume there is a trap under the floor...there is water visible in the drop and there is no visible change when water in the rest of the house is flushed/drained.

    The new shower has a drain in the center. I know I have to remove some material (concrete) to get the drain from the center of the shower to the existing drain. Can I run 1 1/2" from the new shower base to the existing drain? How can I connect to the existing drain? It seems to metal of some sort but the main lines in the house are PVC. Does it have to be completely covered by concrete?

    Is there a brand or type of mortar that should be used under the shower base? What would be the proper steps for installing the unit? (When to pour mortar....when to set unit.....when to screw in place )

    Any help would be great!!! I can post pictures if it doesn't make sense.

    Thanks in advance!

    Brian

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
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    Default

    What size drain does the new shower need? Current codes require 2", and that may be 2" (although they sell 1.5" but it doesn't meet code - don't ask me why).

    You don't want a horizontal trap arm under the shower - you want the trap under the new shower's drain. This may mean tearing up more of the floor. If it isn't too far to the main drain, you can probably replace that arm with a 2" and make everyone happy. Safer to replace an old trap if it is metal under there - pvc would be fine. Code requires the pipe be 2" underground minimum, so you may find that the pipe is 2", and you wouldn't have to tear out too much, maybe only the (possibly) 1.5" trap and riser...it probably bumps up to 2" on the outlet.

    The shower pan works best and lasts longest if it is fully supported underneath. There are various things that work - stucolite, deck mud (sand and portland cement mix...heavy on the sand 4-6:1), and other stuff as well.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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