Sewage Pump/Basin question

check valve

The design of the check valve implies a spring loaded one, but it could be a unique design swing check. The only thing a tap on the check valve could cure, assuming the pump is actually running, is some problem with the check valve. It would have nothing to do with the discharge line, or its operation. More common is that a tap on the piping jars the switch to turn the pump on.

The pump is always running when the bak-up occurs. I looked closer at the spare check valve I have. the internal of the valves has a pocket that could possibly hold solids and actually hold the flapper closed. i am installing the check in the vertical position in the morning. I will keep everyone atune to what happens. I know it is a simple problem but it is in a system that is extremly hard to trouble shoot. Most times you could dicsonnect any place and let water run......But I don't wnat to Turd Herd.

I use a 3" ball check on a 2" discharge. Ball checks are hard to find and expensive. The one that I chose has a loose ball that rattles around and self cleans and has no pockets or springs to bugger up. I have about 20 feet of head on them so closure is assisted. My next choice would be the true sewage rated checks that appear to have a rubber flapper inside.

Seems to me if you have only a few feet of head and a large pit you could eliminate the check. That would certainly be a simple solution unless you have issues of backflow from the public sewers.

Raucina said:

I use a 3" ball check on a 2" discharge. Ball checks are hard to find and expensive. The one that I chose has a loose ball that rattles around and self cleans and has no pockets or springs to bugger up. I have about 20 feet of head on them so closure is assisted. My next choice would be the true sewage rated checks that appear to have a rubber flapper inside.

Click to expand...

I have never seen one of those. Sound like a good idea.

Raucina said:

Seems to me if you have only a few feet of head and a large pit you could eliminate the check. That would certainly be a simple solution unless you have issues of backflow from the public sewers.

Click to expand...

Ya that might be a good idea. The plumbing code in my area States Pump-Check Valve-Shut Off. I don't know about his area, but if he could get away with it. It might save a few headaches.

I entered the stink pit yesterday to re-pipe the discharge line. As I was dismanteling I remembered when installing the line with an isolation valve I do get flow back from the city. No way I can re-pipe till warmer weather as I will need assistance from a sucker truck, and I need to speak with the Public Works Dept. I did drill another vent hole in the discharge pipe just above normal water line. Looks like I will have to make major plans to get the line cleaned and scoped but not till I speak to the city as to the exact position of my line at the city tie.

The check valve I have in there now is from a plumbing supply and was suggested for sewage systems. It does have a plastic backed rubber flapper.As always this is not going to be an easy fix and with the outside temp sitting at 2 below I will have to wait for warmer weather to open the basement for truck hose access.

I will let all know how this all plays out as maybe we can learn something from it.
I appreciate the great suggestions and have printed these replys so I have them for refrence.

Items I plan to do.
A: Clean and scope the line after speaking to the City
B: Replace the basin or re-work the cover and basin lip to allow solid bolting of the cover.
C: Install the check in a vertical position just abouve the cover.
D: Re-pipe the line with 45 degree elbows to make smoother run.
E: Bring a licensed plumber in to look at my entire system top to bottom to ensure code install.
F: Pray for a solution to the problem.

Is the sewer line in the street at a higher elevation than your house? This may be a real hacker forced main system!

Are you pumping into a pressurized force main sewer?

patrick88 said:

The installers guide says to drill a hole in the side of the discharge pipe between the pump and tank cover. It makes a world of difference.

Click to expand...

Not only does it make a world of difference it is mandatory, otherwise the pump will airlock. Its a 5/16 hole for waste water.

DEC said:

Prashster
the check is an over the counter schedule 80 PVC check valve installed in the horizontal. The isolation valve is open 100 %. I have attached 2 pictures, pump discharge piping is brite white.
I have vented the pump discgharge line as described in the owners manual what vent are you talking about (lid in disch line )?

Click to expand...

is that a full port ball valve you are using?

I have the same one. Yes.