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Thread: Water line valve problem....

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Crotalus's Avatar
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    Default Water line valve problem....

    Hello, I'm new to the forum as you can see. I'm currently helping my father with some bathroom/kitchen remodel projects. So I'll probably be around quite a bit. The issue we've had is a leaky water main shutoff valve in the basement. My father lives in a double wide that was built in the early 80's. It is on a full basement.

    The valve is located at the end of a 20 foot run of PVC that comes in from the outside. The galvanized valve then is connected via a galvanized elbow to gray PBT. I want to put in a new valve at the beginning of the PVC run where the PVC enters the basement in case we ever have problems with the PVC leaking. First off, what type of PVC valve do I need for this high pressure line and which type of valve will be the most troublefree?

    The main problem is I want to completely remove the old galvanized valve (because it is leaking and corroded), but how do I then connect PVC to PBT so it is leak free? Thanks for your time.

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    There is a shut-off in the meter manhole where your supply line takes off of the supply main. These take a more or less special tool to turn off. Your local supplier may not want you to have one, but I would suggest you get one anyway for emergency use. If your line broke before it got to valve in the house, you have no way to shut the water off, and Murphy's Law states that when that happens, it will be at night and on a holiday. I'd install a full flow ball valve. These are available with threads so you can adapt them to any kind of pipe using approprate adapters. They have a lever that requires only 1/4 turn for full off to full on.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Crotalus's Avatar
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    Thanks Gary for the recommendation on the valve....that's what I was looking for. Now for the other question about once I remove the old galvanized valve and how to connect gray PBT to PVC in a high pressure line? Since it is my understanding that PBT can't be solvent welded, what is the best alternative?

  4. #4

    Default Pb

    The galvanized should be connected to the PB with a threaded fitting. Can you cut the pvc from the valve and just unscrew the galvanized from the PB without damaging the PB fitting. Hopefully it is a brass or copper PB fitting.

    I personally would not use any of the compression fittings for PB, but that is one of your options if they are allowed in your area.

    Since you said you are involved in bath and kitchen remodels and assuming this house has PB waterlines throughout, I recommend you replace all accessable waterlines you expose during your remodel. If pex is allowed in your area you can purchase the required crimping tools and use pex tubing in place of the PB. Manufacturers of Pex make the necessary transition fitting that will connect Pex to PB using the crimping tool.

    You should not install PVC water line inside the house or basement. The PVC should stop near the point where it enters the basement with a valve, then you should use water distribution pipe (copper, pex, cpvc) from that point on.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member Crotalus's Avatar
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    Thanks Clayton, that's what I needed to hear (read). I'll take another look at the galvanized.....but IIRC it is in pretty bad shape. I'm hoping it will just unscrew. Is there any trick to unthreading corroded galvanized?

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