In Floor heating system's Thermostat

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karts

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Hi there
I would like some advice around the use of an infloor heating system's thermostat (Easy heat). 2 years ago we installed an infloor heating system with a sensor wire into the mortar underneath the tiles. The thermostat is a 7 day programmable one. To this day we have not done anything to the tiles that could have damaged the sensor wiring (such as drilling etc)

For the first year the thermostat and the floor worked fine. Great heat on your feet.:) However, we turned it off for the summer months and when we turned it back on the reading on the thermostat that indicates actual floor heat went up to 120F even through the tiles are stone cold and no heat can be felt. There is no heater or anything near the sensor causing it to perhaps to read that temperature instead and making the thermostat go to the maximum level the floor can be set to. Because that is the maximum level, the heating systeme won't come on.
Thinking perhaps the thermostat was defective we removed it and re-installed it thinking it would reset itself. No luck. So we replaced it with a new thermostat. This has not fixed the problem and the same is happening. At least it ruled out tha thermostat as a cause. We were able to get the floor to warm up, although the temperature was appr 86 or so, the thermostat required to be set higher in order for the heat to go up to a nice temperature. It seems to be that for some reason the thermostat receives a "message" that the floor is at the maximum hear even though that is not the case. So it is back up at 120 and no heat coming on as a result of that.
Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? The sensor has not been touched or the floor drilled in or anything. The fact that the heat did come on for a while tells me it all is working but somehow the temparture readings are not correct. All the components are easy heat. We called them but did not receive any call back after several attempts, let alone advice on what the issue could be.
Karen
 

Chris75

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What does an "LO" reading on screen mean?

* The floor sensing probe is damaged, missing or loose.
* Call your electrician.

What does an "HI" reading on screen mean?

The floor sensing probe is reading a temperature over 104F.Probe is likely too close or is touching a heating wire inside the mat.The probe must be relocated. Call your tile setter to reposition the sensor.

Since your thermostat is not displaying the above I would say your sensor is good also...

EDIT
Opps, sorry, that was for Nu-heat, not easy heat...
 
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Chris75

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Control showing much higher temperature than set.

Problem with programmable thermostat, Return programmable thermostat to POP

*or*

Probe in direct sunlight or under obstruction
 

Alternety

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I am assuming you are talking about electric floor heating.

If you substituted a known good thermostat, there is something wrong with (or in the path to) the sensor. Sensors should be placed in a small accessible tube so they can be replaced. Do that if it turns out to be bad. Make sure there is good contact by using an appropriate heat conducting goo (that is a technical term :)).

Are there any control electronics in the base attached to the electrical box on the wall. Does the thermostat directly control the power to the floor.

Where are the physical wires from the sensor attached to the thermostat or the base. They might be loose or corroded. Remove, clean with a very fine sand/emery paper.

If the thermostat is directly controlling the floor there is 120 V or 240 V present in that thermostat base. If you don't know how to handle that; call someone. You could get hurt and/or make pretty sparks until the breaker opens.
 

PEW

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I would talk to the Easy Heat folks and get some ohm readings for the sensor. Then put an ohm meter on the sensor wires to see what you have. I would guess a short in the sensor wires. Could be a bad probe, or a problem with the connecting wires. The wires could be shorted where they enter the thermostat box (more likely if you have a metal box) or could be squeezed tight elsewhere. If you can find a physical short you can fix it, if it is in the sensor you will have to find a way to place a new one, or go with an air reading thermostat which, I personally do not feel is a good way to go.
 

dAube2

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Looking for similar input... I have a home where the kitchen's in floor heating was installed by the previous owners. Recently I noticed a lot of clicking coming from the kitchen, apparently coming from the nonprogrammable ET1 thermostat. Came home one night to the system at 90 degrees. I've read on another tLove thread that this could have been the beginning of the end for the thermostat. I'm hoping this is all that will be, in the way of problems and solutions. Have turned of the breaker in an effort to reset but no success. Should I begin with trying to purchase a new one, and does it need to be with the same make, model and non programmable?
 

Jadnashua

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It's not a clear cut answer to your question. Many of these systems have a floor temperature sensor embedded in the floor itself. This is to ensure that the actual tile surface doesn't get dangerously hot and a sensor up on the wall in the thermostat body helps control the air temperature. Some thermostat systems actually don't care about the air temperature, and are sold as floor warming systems...if they actually heat the space above much, that's a bonus.

If your system requires a floor sensor, and the floor sensor is defective, that generally means tearing out at least one tile and, if you don't know where the heating wires explicitly are placed, you can damage them.

One thing we've learned over the years are a couple of things can create problems:
- it's a really good idea to tile in a spare sensor when installing the tile
- the maximum heat density from one tends to be in the 12-14W/sqft, which may not be enough to heat the room, but should easily warm the floor (that's why many are called floor warming, not a heating system).
- it's easier than you might think damaging the wiring such that it works okay for years, and eventually fails. The more conservative suppliers call for checking that specifically, in one case, three times: on the roll before installation to compare the reading to the factory one; after emplaced but not yet tiled, then immediately after finishing the install. To do this test, you need a special tool called a Megometer...it tests the functioning of the insulation with up to 1,000v and looks to see if there's any current places there shouldn't be caused by damaged insulation jacket. It's fairly easy to tell if you've broken a heating wire, but it isn't as easy without special tools, to verify that the insulation is entirely intact as well.
 
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dAube2

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It's not a clear cut answer to your question. Many of these systems have a floor temperature sensor embedded in the floor itself. This is to ensure that the actual tile surface doesn't get dangerously hot and a sensor up on the wall in the thermostat body helps control the air temperature. Some thermostat systems actually don't care about the air temperature, and are sold as floor warming systems...if they actually heat the space above much, that's a bonus.

If your system requires a floor sensor, and the floor sensor is defective, that generally means tearing out at least one tile and, if you don't know where the heating wires explicitly are placed, you can damage them.

One thing we've learned over the years are a couple of things can create problems:
- it's a really good idea to tile in a spare sensor when installing the tile
- the maximum heat density from one tends to be in the 12-14W/sqft, which may not be enough to heat the room, but should easily warm the floor (that's why many are called floor warming, not a heating system).
- it's easier than you might think damaging the wiring such that it works okay for years, and eventually fails. The more conservative suppliers call for checking that specifically, in one case, three times: on the roll before installation to compare the reading to the factory one; after emplaced but not yet tiled, then immediately after finishing the install. To do this test, you need a special tool called a Megometer...it tests the functioning of the insulation with up to 1,000v and looks to see if there's any current places there shouldn't be caused by damaged insulation jacket. It's fairly easy to tell if you've broken a heating wire, but it isn't as easy without special tools, to verify that the insulation is entirely intact as well.
.............

This is all very good information, thank you. If I need to revisit, I'll have to go through your notes very thoroughly again.

As it happens, I did manage to remove the thermostat from the wall, initially to verify the connection and the model number. I did cut off power, at the start of that process, and though at the first attempt at this reset, the temperature again rose to the 80's, at that time I turned off the floor and left it off for some time. I did turn the floor on again, to test and to head off the extreme cold that hit us in the Midwest last week, and fortunately ever since, the floor has been hovering at 67-68 degrees, sometimes going as low as 63 (that worries me). This tells me - I could be wrong because I have no education on this - that the thermostat is possibly the cause of the problem. Hoping not to have to address this anytime soon!
 

Bcarlson78248

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When I installed in-floor heat from Warmly Yours, there was an option to use the in-floor sensor or ambient air sensor. Mine is configured for the in-floor sensor that was installed, but switching to ambient is just an option on the thermostat. I believe the wall thermostat switches line voltage (120 volt), with a low voltage connection for the sensor.

My system heats the floor of a basement bathroom, and the heat is usually set to 72-76 degrees at the floor. That keeps the floor comfortable, but doesn't seem to really warm up the room. IIRC, they don't recommend running the floor above 80 degrees, but I would have to verify that in the documentation.

Bruce
 
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