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Thread: How to plumb moen vertical spa

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member seanmathes's Avatar
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    Default How to plumb moen vertical spa

    Guys-

    I am installing a moen 3330 3 function valve as well as a moen 243 trim kit. This is the one with four body jets. The instructions are horrendous.

    My question are:

    Can you provide any advice as to how to actually mount the valve to the wall. I am assuming a 2x4 or 1x4 directly to the studs correct? But at what depth? I have bare walls to the studs currently.

    The valve is 1/2" CC but I am running 3/4" CPVC up to the valve and transitioning from threaded CPVC to male copper adapter. Female copper to sweated into the valve. My main supply comes from 3/4" copper supply that I have teed into and transitioned to CPVC.

    The output lines for the valve are also 1/2" sweat. Should I come off of this with all rigid copper to all of the body jets as well as to the shower head. Should any of this be supported by lumber?

    One last question- It is very difficult to sweat those copper adapters into the valve. Are there any tricks to this or do I just have to heat it for a very long time. I am using one of those torch kits from home depot. The copper gets hot enough but it just seems like I can't get the brass hot enough to suck it in?????

    Thanks for any info
    Last edited by seanmathes; 01-18-2008 at 10:21 AM.

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member seanmathes's Avatar
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    Default

    Here is the install book if anyone would like to take a look. Another question- I haven't received the body jets yet, but in the diagram it shows two supply lines going to each bodyjet.

    Is there two sweat inputs or what I'm thinking is that there is just one and you solder a tee into it to create the balance loop. Correct????

    http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com/...pecs/253sp.pdf

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default dimensions

    Nice of them to give such a detailed drawing and not give the center to wall face dimension. Measure from the front of the plastic ground to the center of the inlet lines to determine where the pipes should be located relative to your finished wall's surface.

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    DIY Junior Member seanmathes's Avatar
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    Got it! But there is no finished wall? I know I need to add 1/2" for the drywall but what about for the thin set and tile? Will I have some wiggle room or does it have to be right on?"

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Firstoff, unless you are going to use Kerdi or a similar surface membrane, do NOT use drywall.

    If using cbu, Hardibacker is not 1/2" (check their specs to see the exact thickness). Some of the other cbu brands are 1/2". On top of that, it depends on the tile - how flat they are, how flat the wall is, whether there are waffles, etc. on the back as to how thick of a thinset bed there needs to be. Figure anywhere from 1/8"-1/4". Can't say closer without knowing the tile and surface. Then, there is no real standard on how thick the tile is - make sure to measure. Many tile are made to metric specs, and they round off to fraction inches.

    You may want to build a mockup practice board with several tile, backer, and thinset. Maybe even to the point of multiple tile to see variations on spacing and grout colors. once that was done, you could measure and get a very accurate idea. WIthout knowing the actual tiling substrate, waterproofing or vapor barrier method, and specific tile, anything is a guess.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member seanmathes's Avatar
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    Yes this will be a kerdi shower should have mentioned that before. Is it really that critical to mock up all of that for a differential of perhaps a 1/4" in thickness? I am weeks away from tiling probably and haven't picked out any tile. Won't there be that much adjustment just in the threads when I screw the trim kit, body jets, and shower head to the lines and valve body?
    Last edited by seanmathes; 01-18-2008 at 12:14 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member seanmathes's Avatar
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    Bump for help.

    I can't get this soldering thing figured out. I just can't get the solder to suck into the brass shower valve. The solder will begin to melt but it won't suck it in. I know it's hot enough as I can melt the solder when I touch it to the brass. I pull the fittings out after I have tried to solder it and it's only coated with solder right around the rim?????

  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You using a MAPP or propane torch? YOu cleaning both the inside and the pipe well then using flux? Move the torch around the body of the valve where you are attaching the pipe. Don't heat the pipe, heat the valve. It's harder to get everything hot with propane.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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