utility sink drain

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Terry

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snap_cutter.jpg

snap cutter

I think your best best is to rent a rachet snap cutter for the cast, and cut in some tees.
One a cleanout tee, and one a 3x2 or 4x2 tee.
These can be assembled in the line using no-hub couplings. You normally leave about 1/4" gap so you can slide the tees in.
If you have cast, then I like getting cast tees, the sizing works better with existing cast.
Measure the outside diameter, old cast is 4-1/8" for a 4" line, new cast is 4-3/8" for a 4" line. With the smaller pipe size that is 4-1/8", you use a no-hub sized for copper pipe. If you cut in new fittings, that looks like a copper to cast size. The copper goes over the old cast, the cast size goes over the new fittings.
Put the AAV between the stack, and the p-trap.
Terry

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Mikept

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Why would I have to install another cleanout tee in the cast iron? Couldnt I unscrew the plug from the cast tee thats already there and screw in a new shiny brass plug, one without a standpipe hole in it?

Just to be clear I need two AAVs(mini-studor-vents from lowes?) for the two trap? And two seperate 2" lines into the stack?

That diagram doesnt make much sense to me because my soil stack isnt against the wall
its 4' out. The washer is going to be on the side of the sink, so there should be more 90's in there.

Lastly the stack is 3" it has a 3.5" diameter, if that makes a difference.
 
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Smellslike$tome

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It depends on jurisdiction.
In Washington State where the UPC code is used, they don't allow a laundry tray to wet vent over the washer with a 2" pipe.
They used to, but not now.

The extra pipe and fittings cost maybe $5 and and will pass any inspector.
I could show a plumbing picture that doesn't pass everywhere, and let homeowners in different states find out the hard way, but to me, it makes more sense to show plumbing that will pass with any inspection.

I stand corrected and you make a good point. If I were in Washington State I would most certainly follow the code and there are times when I will exceed (never diminish it) the code requirements because common sense demands it. In this case I would follow the code without argument but doesn't a re-vent on an 18" waste arm seem just a little bit ridiculous?

As Terry stated above it depends on where you are... In these forums it may be better to mention a way of doing it that would be accepted anywhere. Have you ever seen an inspector fail plumbing for exceeding code?


Seen it? I've been victimized by it.
 

bradleonard

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I know this thread is very old, but it is exactly what I am needing to do. I have an existing standpipe for my washing machine going into a 2" drain vented above with 2". The washing machine drain comes from the left in my picture.

washer drain.jpg

Wash drain 2.jpg

I would like to add a laundry sink to this drain. My question is Washington Code specific as I live in Washington. Can I simply add a cross T where the washing machine enters this stack and drain both the sink and washer at the same height, or do I need to do a vent in the horizontal line come from the sink trap just as you have shown in the picture at the beginning of this thread?
 
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