utility sink drain

RemodelBob · Jan 17, 2008

Terry said:
A typical washer and laundry sink rough-in.

Washers have very quick shutoffs, which puts pressure on the hoses when the fill cycle ends.

Why is there only insulation on the supply lines to the washer box? Is that PEX under there? Are you supposed to insulate PEX?

CharlieM · Jan 17, 2008

mikept,

It really doesn't matter if it's 1.5 or 2 inch standpipe. The point is that some modern machines discharge at a rate sufficient to overrun a 1.5" pipe. If yours drains ok and doesn't overflow the stand pipe, I wouldn't worry about it.

Charlie

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Jadnashua · Jan 17, 2008

From what I've read, newer WM, especially front loaders, tend to have bigger pumps and can evacute water much faster than older machines. I know a front loader rotates MUCH faster than a typical top loader. This means a much larger volume of water in a short time. A properly done 2" drain can handle it, a smaller one may not.

It's always a good idea to insulate pipes...not sure about the codes. Hot stays hotter, and the cold doesn't sweat from condensation.

RemodelBob · Jan 17, 2008

should the insulation go through the studs? as in should you drill a 1.5" hole in the stud to fit the pipe and insulation or do you cut it around the studs?

Gary Swart · Jan 17, 2008

Newer washers dump water at a much higher rate than older models. That's why 2" standpipes and drains are required now. 1-1/2" were larger enough for the older machines.

Terry · Jan 17, 2008

Why is there only insulation on the supply lines to the washer box? Is that PEX under there? Are you supposed to insulate PEX?

I only insulated that section to cover up the PEX to prevent exposure to sunlight. I didn't know how soon they were going to drywall.
Just a little bit of overkill.

Mikept · Jan 17, 2008

Oh man my 2" abs was 1 1/2 and my 4" CI was actually 3.

Can i replace the cleanout plug with one that has a 2" hole or enlarge the one i have there?

If not 1 1/2" should be enought for a utility sink or the current washer to drain?

Terry · Jan 17, 2008

If it's my house, and I want a washer and a sink nearby, I rent the snap cutter and put a 3x2 wye or tee in the line, and a cleanout, and run the waste so it's vented with at least an AAV for a vent.

Just think a little bigger.

Jadnashua · Jan 17, 2008

Many washers will work with 1.5". If you dump it into the utility sink first, you should have enough buffer for any to work with a 1.5" drain for it.

Smellslike$tome · Jan 17, 2008

Redwood said:
It vents the washing machine line. If the sink wasn't there it wouldn't be required.

It's not required anyway. It would only be required if the wm trap were out of distance from the existing stack vent, which it is not.

Terry · Jan 17, 2008

It's not required anyway. It would only be required if the wm trap were out of distance from the existing stack vent, which it is not.

It depends on jurisdiction.
In Washington State where the UPC code is used, they don't allow a laundry tray to wet vent over the washer with a 2" pipe.
They used to, but not now.

Does it work without the "extra" vent?
Yes.
Does it meet code that way everywhere?
No.

The extra pipe and fittings cost maybe $5 and and will pass any inspector.
I could show a plumbing picture that doesn't pass everywhere, and let homeowners in different states find out the hard way, but to me, it makes more sense to show plumbing that will pass with any inspection.

Of course on big jobs, plumbers will meet with inspectors and find out their individual quirks before the plumbing starts.
When I was plumbing in refrigerated cases and meat markets for a grocery chain, the plan was the same, but I plumbed it eight different ways.
Some of the arguments were pretty heated down in Tacoma. They didn't like plumbers from King county taking away their work.

Redwood · Jan 17, 2008

smellslike$tome said:
It's not required anyway. It would only be required if the wm trap were out of distance from the existing stack vent, which it is not.

As Terry stated above it depends on where you are... In these forums it may be better to mention a way of doing it that would be accepted anywhere. Have you ever seen an inspector fail plumbing for exceeding code?

Mikept · Jan 17, 2008

The next cast pipe section starts 3" below the drywalled ceiling, from the cleanout fitting up to that spot is 5' of pipe. Im not sure how i would support that and maybe the pipe above to do some cutting.

This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years, i dont plan on replacing my washing machine in that time or running the washing machine at the same time as the sink and i dont mind putting the standpipe back the way i found it when i leave. What im concerned about is doing this right so that i dont get sewer gas or clogs. Now id rather not drain the washer into the sink if i dont have to. I suppose i could clamp a piece of vertical pipe to an inside corner of the sink or something and run the hose to that. I cant have a hose getting in the way of the equipment im cleaning or collecting extra gunk.

Redwood · Jan 17, 2008

mikept said:
This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years.

Anything you do would have to be approved by the property owner!

Mikept · Jan 17, 2008

Redwood said:
mikept said:

This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years.

Anything you do would have to be approved by the property owner!

Click to expand...

They dont care much about anything, the work they do is horrible. I've lived here most my life and i know the office/maintanence people pretty well, theyre pleasant easygong people but complete total hacks.. I dont beileve it will be a problem.

Click to expand...

Nate R · Jan 17, 2008

Nate R said:
Terry, is that an upside down SanT where the 2 vents connect? Why? (Trying to learn)

Fubar411 said:
it is a vent, upside down to show that.

Then why use a SanT instead of a "standard" tee?

Mikept · Jan 18, 2008

I looked very closely at the hole in the ceiling and the piece of the cast stack that connects in inches below the ceiling line looks like a SanT wye or similar branch fitting. That spot is very close to where the first floor toilet is.

I dont know how i would brace the pipe if i were to cut it. Could i do if from the floor below? Would it be alot of work?

I'm not against getting a hole saw and cutting the hole in the slightly rusty cast iron cleanout plug one pipe size larger from 1 1/2" to 2", if that would work and would be easy to do. Last resort is still 1.5" pipe. What glue or method do you use to put abs into a cast iron hole?

I'll install an AAV between the utility sink and standpipe if you think it would help.

Mikept · Jan 18, 2008

I was thinking that i would put the standpipe and trap on the wall behind the washer and run horizontal two feet underneath the sink turn 90deg go a few inches then attach to the sink with a wye then continue 2 or 3 feet to the stack or to a 90deg on the left side cleanout of the stack, depending.

Mikept · Jan 19, 2008

Can I cut the hole in the cleanout plug from a 1 1/2 inch to a 2 with a hole saw? Also do i need and aav and where would i install it?

Redwood · Jan 20, 2008

You need to hire a plumber with the property owners permission.

utility sink drain

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