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Thread: utility sink drain

  1. #31
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    It's not required anyway. It would only be required if the wm trap were out of distance from the existing stack vent, which it is not.
    It depends on jurisdiction.
    In Washington State where the UPC code is used, they don't allow a laundry tray to wet vent over the washer with a 2" pipe.
    They used to, but not now.

    Does it work without the "extra" vent?
    Yes.
    Does it meet code that way everywhere?
    No.

    The extra pipe and fittings cost maybe $5 and and will pass any inspector.
    I could show a plumbing picture that doesn't pass everywhere, and let homeowners in different states find out the hard way, but to me, it makes more sense to show plumbing that will pass with any inspection.

    Of course on big jobs, plumbers will meet with inspectors and find out their individual quirks before the plumbing starts.
    When I was plumbing in refrigerated cases and meat markets for a grocery chain, the plan was the same, but I plumbed it eight different ways.
    Some of the arguments were pretty heated down in Tacoma. They didn't like plumbers from King county taking away their work.
    Last edited by Terry; 01-17-2008 at 06:03 PM.

  2. #32
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smellslike$tome View Post
    It's not required anyway. It would only be required if the wm trap were out of distance from the existing stack vent, which it is not.
    As Terry stated above it depends on where you are... In these forums it may be better to mention a way of doing it that would be accepted anywhere. Have you ever seen an inspector fail plumbing for exceeding code?

  3. #33
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    The next cast pipe section starts 3" below the drywalled ceiling, from the cleanout fitting up to that spot is 5' of pipe. Im not sure how i would support that and maybe the pipe above to do some cutting.

    This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years, i dont plan on replacing my washing machine in that time or running the washing machine at the same time as the sink and i dont mind putting the standpipe back the way i found it when i leave. What im concerned about is doing this right so that i dont get sewer gas or clogs. Now id rather not drain the washer into the sink if i dont have to. I suppose i could clamp a piece of vertical pipe to an inside corner of the sink or something and run the hose to that. I cant have a hose getting in the way of the equipment im cleaning or collecting extra gunk.
    Last edited by mikept; 01-18-2008 at 01:05 AM.

  4. #34
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikept View Post
    This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years.
    Anything you do would have to be approved by the property owner!
    Last edited by Redwood; 01-17-2008 at 08:41 PM.

  5. #35
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Redwood;118652][QUOTE=mikept;118649]This place is not my house. Im planning on staying between 1 and 2 years.

    Anything you do would have to be approved by the property owner!
    They dont care much about anything, the work they do is horrible. I've lived here most my life and i know the office/maintanence people pretty well, theyre pleasant easygong people but complete total hacks.. I dont beileve it will be a problem.

  6. #36
    DIY Senior Member Nate R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate R View Post
    Terry, is that an upside down SanT where the 2 vents connect? Why? (Trying to learn)
    Quote Originally Posted by Fubar411 View Post
    it is a vent, upside down to show that.
    Then why use a SanT instead of a "standard" tee?


  7. #37
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    I looked very closely at the hole in the ceiling and the piece of the cast stack that connects in inches below the ceiling line looks like a SanT wye or similar branch fitting. That spot is very close to where the first floor toilet is.

    I dont know how i would brace the pipe if i were to cut it. Could i do if from the floor below? Would it be alot of work?

    I'm not against getting a hole saw and cutting the hole in the slightly rusty cast iron cleanout plug one pipe size larger from 1 1/2" to 2", if that would work and would be easy to do. Last resort is still 1.5" pipe. What glue or method do you use to put abs into a cast iron hole?

    I'll install an AAV between the utility sink and standpipe if you think it would help.

  8. #38
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    I was thinking that i would put the standpipe and trap on the wall behind the washer and run horizontal two feet underneath the sink turn 90deg go a few inches then attach to the sink with a wye then continue 2 or 3 feet to the stack or to a 90deg on the left side cleanout of the stack, depending.
    Last edited by mikept; 01-19-2008 at 10:24 PM.

  9. #39
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    Can I cut the hole in the cleanout plug from a 1 1/2 inch to a 2 with a hole saw? Also do i need and aav and where would i install it?

  10. #40
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    You need to hire a plumber with the property owners permission.

  11. #41
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    snap cutter

    I think your best best is to rent a rachet snap cutter for the cast, and cut in some tees.
    One a cleanout tee, and one a 3x2 or 4x2 tee.
    These can be assembled in the line using no-hub couplings. You normally leave about 1/4" gap so you can slide the tees in.
    If you have cast, then I like getting cast tees, the sizing works better with existing cast.
    Measure the outside diameter, old cast is 4-1/8" for a 4" line, new cast is 4-3/8" for a 4" line. With the smaller pipe size that is 4-1/8", you use a no-hub sized for copper pipe. If you cut in new fittings, that looks like a copper to cast size. The copper goes over the old cast, the cast size goes over the new fittings.
    Put the AAV between the stack, and the p-trap.
    Terry

    Last edited by Terry; 01-20-2008 at 10:44 AM.

  12. #42
    DIY Senior Member mikept's Avatar
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    Why would I have to install another cleanout tee in the cast iron? Couldnt I unscrew the plug from the cast tee thats already there and screw in a new shiny brass plug, one without a standpipe hole in it?

    Just to be clear I need two AAVs(mini-studor-vents from lowes?) for the two trap? And two seperate 2" lines into the stack?

    That diagram doesnt make much sense to me because my soil stack isnt against the wall
    its 4' out. The washer is going to be on the side of the sink, so there should be more 90's in there.

    Lastly the stack is 3" it has a 3.5" diameter, if that makes a difference.
    Last edited by mikept; 01-20-2008 at 12:36 PM.

  13. #43
    Plumbing Company Owner smellslike$tome's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Terry;118631]It depends on jurisdiction.
    In Washington State where the UPC code is used, they don't allow a laundry tray to wet vent over the washer with a 2" pipe.
    They used to, but not now.

    The extra pipe and fittings cost maybe $5 and and will pass any inspector.
    I could show a plumbing picture that doesn't pass everywhere, and let homeowners in different states find out the hard way, but to me, it makes more sense to show plumbing that will pass with any inspection.

    I stand corrected and you make a good point. If I were in Washington State I would most certainly follow the code and there are times when I will exceed (never diminish it) the code requirements because common sense demands it. In this case I would follow the code without argument but doesn't a re-vent on an 18" waste arm seem just a little bit ridiculous?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    As Terry stated above it depends on where you are... In these forums it may be better to mention a way of doing it that would be accepted anywhere. Have you ever seen an inspector fail plumbing for exceeding code?


    Seen it? I've been victimized by it.

  14. #44
    DIY Junior Member bradleonard's Avatar
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    I know this thread is very old, but it is exactly what I am needing to do. I have an existing standpipe for my washing machine going into a 2" drain vented above with 2". The washing machine drain comes from the left in my picture.

    Name:  washer drain.jpg
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    Name:  Wash drain 2.jpg
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    I would like to add a laundry sink to this drain. My question is Washington Code specific as I live in Washington. Can I simply add a cross T where the washing machine enters this stack and drain both the sink and washer at the same height, or do I need to do a vent in the horizontal line come from the sink trap just as you have shown in the picture at the beginning of this thread?
    Last edited by bradleonard; 11-07-2010 at 08:59 PM.

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