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Thread: Installing Moen single handle Posi-Temp setup

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member Nate R's Avatar
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    Default Installing Moen single handle Posi-Temp setup

    I have a Single handle Monticello tub/shower faucet. Trying to figure out Moen's drawing for the setup.


    At the top of the drawing there is: "1/2" min CC; 5/8" min IPS"

    I would think IPS is Iron Pipe Size. But that doesn't make sense as the valve is set up for 1/2" pipe, and there's the same inidication at the upper left for 1 7/8" and 2".

    What does the CC and IPS mean? I can't find anything explaining the terms.

    And am I understanding it correctly: I read it as I can have the centerline of the valve a max of 2 1/2" back from the finished wall surface. Am I interpreting the diagram correctly?

    What do I use for the actual tub faucet pipe? Elsewhere, it's specified that a 1/2" threaded pipe should stick out 4 1/16" from the finished wall for the spout. Can I use copper and solder a threaded fitting at the end, or should I use galvanized for this?
    Last edited by Terry; 11-17-2012 at 01:23 PM. Reason: Adding pic

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    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Darn you're easy! CC is copper and yes to answer every question!
    You pass the instruction reading test now hows your sweating ability?

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member Nate R's Avatar
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    Wow. Makes me feel a bit dumb.

    Dunno, the diagram isn't as clear as it could be.

    I thought it might be copper, but I had never seen it indicated that way before.

    Sweating? Well, the only other copper pipe sweating project I did went fine first time around. 14 joints w/ no leaks, so I think I'll be OK. Done lots of electronics soldering, and some of the same principles apply, so hopefully I wasn't just lucky with the first go round.

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    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    First project 14 joints no leaks... Impressive!
    Good luck with this one hope your streak continues!
    Are you replacing an existing valve or, is this a new installation?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Do NOT use galvanized nipple for your tub spout; either use copper and solder on a fitting or use a brass nipple. Note, some tub spouts don't need a fitting, they slide on and then you use the set screw to hold it in place. The galvanized will eventually start to rust, and I'm sure rust stains are not part of the look you are going after.

    Also, instead of a threaded fitting in the wall, many of the valves will accept insertion of the copper pipe directly inside the valve and then solder it in place. This produces a better solution if you are comfortable with the higher mass of the brass valve. Take the cartridge out while soldering to be safe.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member Nate R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    Are you replacing an existing valve or, is this a new installation?
    This is a new install. Old tub was in the NE corner of the bathroom, which didn't have enough ceiling height for a shower, as the North roofline cuts into the headroom there. New tub will be in the SE corner. So I've still got the old tub in place and am doing as much as I can first. Only one bathroom in the house, so we're trying to work around the old tub until we have no choice. So I have one of the new alcove walls framed. The other wall will have to wait. But I'm going to get the supply plumbing done next, and then probably rough in the DWV.

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Do NOT use galvanized nipple for your tub spout; either use copper and solder on a fitting or use a brass nipple. Note, some tub spouts don't need a fitting, they slide on and then you use the set screw to hold it in place. The galvanized will eventually start to rust, and I'm sure rust stains are not part of the look you are going after.

    Also, instead of a threaded fitting in the wall, many of the valves will accept insertion of the copper pipe directly inside the valve and then solder it in place. This produces a better solution if you are comfortable with the higher mass of the brass valve. Take the cartridge out while soldering to be safe.
    This spout is not slip fit, so I'm stuck threading it on. I will look into whether my valve will accept direct soldering. I'd prefer that. But that's another thing I didn't know when I bought it almost a year ago.

    Thanks for the help! I'll probably post pics as I continue and ask for feedback.

  7. #7
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Sorry I missed the galv nipple that one is a no!

    The moen spout will go onto a male adapter sweated on a copper pipe stub just fine! just set the lenght of the stub out correctly.

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    DIY Junior Member crosby1's Avatar
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    Another question regarding this diagram: between the spout and the valve there is a measurement of 1-11/16". WHAT is 1-11/16"???

    is it the distance between the finished wall surface and the center of the valve? according to the previous post, this distance was 2-1/2"?!?!?!?

    why can't they make these things so normal people can read them????

  9. #9
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It's a good thing we don't read the instructions before we install those valves or it would never get done. That dimension is an engineer's idea of the ideal dimension to the face of the the drop pipe. It has no meaning in the real world, just as few of the other dimensions are as exact as they imply.

  10. #10
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Here is a Moen video on installation


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