Case 3000 Wall Mounted Toilet

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Jgad60

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Oh, that is awesome! So basically I'll just need to figure out a way to lower the two top bolts down then, I think I'll go ahead and give this a try.

One more question, the Case 3000 had a sort of fabric like material where the toilet met the drain where like the wax ring goes on a floor mounted toilet. Is there anything different about a wall mount where something similar to that is needed for replacement or would I just need to get a new wax ring to replace that with the new toilet?

Thanks again!

Did anyone answer you about what goes between the Case 3000 toilet and the drain pipe. I have two 50 year old Case 3000s in a seldom used vacation home which recently started leaking. The only thing I can figure out is a dried up/leaking seal when the water leaves the toilet. I have not taken either one off the wall yet.

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Terry

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Did anyone answer you about what goes between the Case 3000 toilet and the drain pipe. I have two 50 year old Case 3000s in a seldom used vacation home which recently started leaking. The only thing I can figure out is a dried up/leaking seal when the water leaves the toilet. I have not taken either one off the wall yet.

Normally a wall hung uses a neopreme seal.
They also make a reinforced wax ring, but it has to say on the box that is good for the wall mount application.
We only use the neopreme seals.
 

hj

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There are several reasons why a Fluidmaster, and other replacement valves would not fit, the main one being that the Case valve is on a "tower" inside the tank and NO OTHER valve will mount like that.
 

Jgad60

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Re: the Case 3000 wall mount toilet discharge seal. I presume that if I get that replaced and sealed properly any leaking will stop and then I can figure out what else it needs without getting the floor, sub floor and crawlspace wet. These toilets are in a beach house 150 miles from home so I need to take parts with me to do the job. I have not taken the toilets off the wall yet so I don't know what size pipe comes through the wall. Under the house I see the discharge pipe is 3" copper. I see different sizes of neoprene seals available. Is there only one size for the Case 3000 or does it depend on the size of the drain pipe? I also see different thicknesses. I presume the thicker the better when it comes to a compression seal. Is that the case here. Do you have any specific recommendations. I have a separate post with pictures. If you have the time I would appreciate any advice. Thanks, Joe
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/case-3000-toilet-issues.59816/
 

hj

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ALL wall mount toilets have a 4" stub out and there is only ONE size seal, although there are many TYPES of seals. If you use a wax one, be sure to get on that says it is "for wall mount toilets" and has the fiber insert inside it.
 

Jgad60

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Thanks for the advice. I think I will go with a Zurn thick neoprene seal and a new tank ball for starters and see how far that gets me before ordering any additional Case 3000 parts.
 

NE_JV

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My plumber buddy is helping me but isn't familiar with wall hung toilets so I'm gathering the facts. In short, the copper carrier connected to my Case 3000 is leaking so I need to have it replaced (pic below). Where can I buy a 4" carrier to replace this? Is this a relatively common part that I'll be able to find at my local plumbing supply specialty store or will I need to order it? Also, can I just use the 4" neopreme seals Terry mentioned above in post #63?

My aforementioned friend is recommending installing a floor drain model but given I have two more Case 3000's I want to try to stick with the wall mounts to avoid tearing out floors. Also, I prefer the looks of the wall mounts so I'm going to do everything I can to help figure this out. Like the poster above I have had multiple plumbers look at the toilets in the past and none of them understand wall hungs. My goal is to replace the carrier and then assess if I should rehang the Case 3000 which is working well but is old and is a water hog or replace it. Thanks.

IMG_1043.JPG
IMG_1047.JPG
 

Elise H

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Hi,

I've been reading over all of these threads re. issues with the Case 3000 wall hungs. I too have some of the same issues with 3 of these in my home built in '64. I've had so many plumbers over who don't know a thing and it's very frustrating. The plumber who's been working on them for the past 15 years doesn't even really know what he's doing. My question is this: Does anyone know an EXPERIENCED (with Case 3000's) plumber in the Los Angeles area? I really need someone who knows what they are doing and has worked on these toilets and can actually repair them. I've had a lot of guys come out and say they've never worked on one but they will "try" and "may" be able to help, for a pretty penny. I just don't want to deal with anyone who doesn't know how to fix them.

Please help!

Thanks,

EH
 

WJcandee

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For what it's worth, Elise, our resident expert (who is in Arizona) thinks that they are not that hard to work on, and that people try to do things that are way too dramatic to fix them when the two basic issues that any toilet has (fill valve issues and flush valve issues) can usually be addressed by just replacing the most-inexpensive parts that wear out and leaving everything else alone.

Why not tell us what's wrong, and see if we can recommend a course of action?
 

Elise H

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Sorry for the late response, we ordered a new Case 251R triple seal tank ball and that has helped with the constant water running, although the flush lever sticks every single time you flush, so you have to make sure to lift it up or it will run continuously. I guess our only problem now is trying to figure out how to get the flush lever to stop sticking. Also, is there a way to lessen the flow of water since we are trying to conserve as much as possible here in L.A.

Thanks,

Elise
 

Smooky

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Here are some good links to original parts:


https://www.plumbingsupply.com/case.html



 
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EArcher

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Greetings All,
I am replacing the fill valve seat on a Case 3000 at my grandfathers home and have stripped out the inner portion that you fit an Allen wrench in to unscrew. My new replacement seat is brass, but the old one is vinyl/plastic looking. Any ideas on the best way to get the old plastic seat (fill valve seat) out now? I am really impressed on how well these old toilets are built! Thanks in advance!
 

Dax

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Looking for a great condition (no cracks, no stains) Case 3000 toilet to replace one in the Tri-Cities, WA area (we could travel in WA or OR/ID to pick up) to replace ours which has a crack in the bowl. Any ideas of a source ? We agree this IS the best toilet ever made, and don't want to just put a newer different model in there . . . really would like to find an original Case 3000 to swap out . . . Can you help?
 

Richv

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Well, here I am again, ten years after a Case 3000 complete internal plumbing replacement. The pipe (tube?) between the two vertical portions of the fill valve system broke. We do have very hard water here. Is it threaded or "press-fit"?
 

hj

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You heat a narrow flat blade screwdriver red hot, then use it to melt a groove in the side of the seat. You will have to reheat several time to keep it hot enough. When you are all the way through it, (and down to the brass), use a screwdriver to pry one side inwards and "pop" it out.

briggs-case-3000-1964-01.jpg
 
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Hi there Kids
Long time no chat
I agree that the Case toilets are fabulous
I have two of them that need a new home, one green and one blue
I have been saving them for years but am moving to a smaller space
If anyone knows of someone that needs either or both of these toilets then please send them my way

Also: The Case 3000 is very heavy and they often crack under the weight. I very strongly recommend some sort of support "leg" underneath the central rib on the underside
 

Spoxbrain

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Normally a wall hung uses a neopreme seal.
They also make a reinforced wax ring, but it has to say on the box that is good for the wall mount application.
We only use the neopreme seals.
what make/model of neoprene seals do you use? trying to remount my peach Case 3000 and struggling.
 
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