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Thread: Case 3000 Wall Mounted Toilet

  1. #31
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default case 3000

    How about a picture of what they put into the toilet, because they may have cobbled something up to make it fit.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  2. #32
    DIY Junior Member Robert McCrory's Avatar
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    Default Getting new toilet

    So I had another plumber come out and they took one look and told me I should replace just replace the toilet instead of pouring more money into keeping this one repaired. I'm sick of trying to get this thing to work - if anyone is interested in some super cheap internals (just had them all replaced, though nobody could ever get them working properly) or a brand new handle, or even the stool itself (won't be shipping that one though) let me know.

  3. #33
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Default

    They "took one look" because they are morons or because Roto-Rooter's incompetent job damaged it. (Most likely: I dunno what that thar thing is...better rip it out before I reveal my ignorance.)

    Or more specifically, that's because they're not used to dealing with a Case 3000. HJ says it's one of the best toilets ever made; just because some hack will find it easier to replace the toilet rather than just fixing the stem and seat in the fill valve for $25 (instead, replacing "everything" because they don't know how to FIX things), doesn't mean that that's the best move.

    It's like leaving your '65 corvette by the side of the road because Roto Rooter doesn't know how to adjust a carburetor.

    The key word in your story is "Roto-Rooter". Sigh.

    If you do replace it, read the whole thread here so some other hack doesn't persuade you you have to rip out your whole wall and install a new carrier.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 07-01-2013 at 11:45 AM.

  4. #34
    DIY Junior Member Robert McCrory's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wjcandee View Post
    They "took one look" because they are morons or because Roto-Rooter's incompetent job damaged it. (Most likely: I dunno what that thar thing is...better rip it out before I reveal my ignorance.)

    Or more specifically, that's because they're not used to dealing with a Case 3000. HJ says it's one of the best toilets ever made; just because some hack will find it easier to replace the toilet rather than just fixing the stem and seat in the fill valve for $25 (instead, replacing "everything" because they don't know how to FIX things), doesn't mean that that's the best move.

    It's like leaving your '65 corvette by the side of the road because Roto Rooter doesn't know how to adjust a carburetor.

    The key word in your story is "Roto-Rooter". Sigh.

    If you do replace it, read the whole thread here so some other hack doesn't persuade you you have to rip out your whole wall and install a new carrier.
    Ha! Yeah, I learned my lesson with Roto-Rooter - I'll never use them again. The current local guy has been great though with all the other problems I've had lately (had a microscopic leak where minerals had broken through the main inlet at an elbow, replaced the kitchen sink and the drain crumbled apart - got to love old houses). In addition to Roto-Rooter I've tried for hours myself adjusting the new case parts but for some reason the damn ball just won't float up and stop the water from running. If i grab it and pull it up it will stop and float on top, but I have to give it some pretty good force to get it to come up - it feels like the arm is really stiff. The new guy played with it for a while and said he thought we got a bad set of replacement parts and suggested that I get roto-rooter back out to get them returned though he said he would personally just replace the whole thing if it were his to save myself money in the long run. I'm at the point now where I'd rather just move on and stop messing with the damn thing.

  5. #35
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Default

    Okay, RIP Case 3000.

    Maybe HJ will weigh in on here before you do; he might have some insight into getting that float to work right. It's a relatively-simple mechanism.

    You might seriously think of giving him a photo like he asked for in the post above, to see if he sees something. He's so amazingly-knowledgeable, you'd be surprised what he can tell you.

    Earlier in this thread and on some others, there are instructions on how to put in a AS Glenwall (which Terry installs quite a few of) or Gerber Maxwell. They're pretty much the only game in town right now, but the Glenwall with the pressure-assist apparently does a decent job.

    Both of those are 4-bolt toilets. As you will see from the other threads, the Case is installed over a standard 4-bolt carrier, but two of the holes aren't used. You have to remove the Case stuff and install the two top bolts, as further explained in those threads. Then you just use that same carrier that's already in there to hang your Glenwall on.

    Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 07-01-2013 at 05:26 PM.

  6. #36
    DIY Junior Member Robert McCrory's Avatar
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    Default

    Anything I should be adjusting other than what is circled in green on this photo? I've tried tightening/loosening both of those without any luck:

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    I found out the hard way last night not to unscrew the thing in the very far top left of the next photo.
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  7. #37
    DIY Junior Member NE_JV's Avatar
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    Default Case 3000 Continuous Running

    I have a Case 3000 that has recently began to give me problems and I have 3 of these so I figured I better figure out how they work. These toilets are cool but they are much more complicated then what I'm accustomed to.

    My issue is that water continues to fill the back tank. I replaced the tank ball with a triple seal part no. B-251 to ensure that the problem wasn't that the water was running into the bowl. However, when I turn the water on it is as though the toilet never recognizes it is full. Any help would be appreciated. I've attached a few pictures even though I know you all know what I"m talking about.[ATTACH]21971

    I've searched the forum for similar threads and have come close but not this exact issue. If I've missed one I apologize. There are some discussions about the fill valve but I'm not sure how I adjust that. My current plan was to replace the Plunger and seat (shown in the bottom picture) as those are moving parts with rubber and plastic components so I though I would start there.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    James
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #38
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Sorry that I can't be specific, but some of the old toilets used a proprietary toilet fill valve and you can't replace it with anything but an original. I do not know if yours is that way, but it may be. The valve MIGHT be able to be rebuilt, if you can find the parts, or maybe even find a new one that would fit. On some of these, you can almost buy a new toilet for the cost of the parts. If you're lucky, a conventional toilet fill valve will fit, and those only cost, typically, less than $20 or so (Korky and Fluidmaster are probably the two biggest makers in the US, and the easiest to find in universal replacements).

    One of the pros who has worked on them would probably know for sure. But, it sounds like the toilet fill valve is not shutting off. You may want to shut the supply valve off in between uses. If one of those is running a lot, your water (and maybe sewer) bill could be a VERY big surprise! You can be dumping LOTS of water down the drain if it runs continuously into the overflow. I'm talking doubling or even more on your water/sewer bill. In some places, that's a pittance, but in others, it can add up to really big bucks.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #39
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I did a quick Google search for Case 3000 parts. On the site I found, they listed a complete rebuild kit for $342.95. Individual parts were also listed and they were quite pricey as well. If you need the complete rebuild, it would be less money to get a new Toto Drake and have a far better toilet for less money. Those old Cases are real water guzzlers as well. If you want to check the part prices and availability, just Google search Case 3000 toilet.

  10. #40
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Default

    If it's just the fill valve that needs replacing the fluid master 400# should work.

    John

  11. #41
    DIY Junior Member NE_JV's Avatar
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    Default What is the function of the plunger seat?

    Thanks all I appreciate your help.

    I definitely, have shut off the water valve as my water usage and bill would skyrocket given how much this toilet is flowing.

    Sorry for my ignorance but what does the the plunger control (shown on my bottom picture)? My local plumbing supply store has the Case plunger and seat (not the toilet seat but the plunger seat ) for a few bucks but I don't want to be replacing something that isn't the problem. They have an entitre rebuild kit that I would have to hire to be installed which all in would be ~$400 so I suppose at that point I'll consider a new replacement Toto Drake.

    Thanks again.

  12. #42
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    I'd have to see a picture, but there's some sort of valve that opens when you flush to drop water in to the bowl, and then the other that you showed pictures of to refill the toilet once it has flushed. My guess, and it's a guess, is the part that is cheap(er) is the part that moves and seals things when you flush, not the refill valve.

    If, after you've shut the water supply off to the toilet, the water in the tank does not drop, that seal is working. If, as you're implying, the water keeps rising and flows down the overflow, then it is the fill valve that is the problem.

    It's possible it could be rebuilt. If you can't do it, between the parts cost and the plumber to do it (if he's young, he may not know how!), you'd probably get better performance and definitely save on your water/sewer bill with a new toilet.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  13. #43
    DIY Junior Member NE_JV's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks guys.

    I'll look more into the new toilet option but what research I've done indicates finding a replacement with the same bolt pattern is impossible and once you factor in opening up the wall to install a new support bracket you have spent more to install a new toilet. I'll keep researching.

  14. #44
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Default

    Okay, here's the skinny.

    The folks who are saying just get a standard valve are off-base. If it works at all it would be a Kluge.

    Those who are saying just get a Drake aren't aware that the Case/Briggs 3000 is a wall-mount toilet.

    You can most likely fix the problem just by replacing the way-inexpensive plunger and seat in that valve, if you have the skills. Forget about the $400 rebuild kit. It's a bunch of work to do it and usually totally-unnecessary. There also aren't a lot of plumbers who want to take the time to do the job. If you had an HJ, then I would advise something else (i.e. he would be able to get you up and running). I have a guy I use now here on Long Island who just rebuilt two of them for a homeowner who loved them, but he charged what he was worth in labor and the total bill wasn't pretty. The homeowner expected it, but it wouldn't be viable for anyone other than a Case 3000 fan. They are cool toilets and if you can just fix it by replacing the plunger than it's worth keeping.

    As to replacement, here's the deal. Your toilet uses a standard carrier with the standard bolt pattern. You almost certainly have a standard carrier in the wall. However, because the Case 3000 toilet only uses two of the bolts on the carrier, when it was installed, they removed the other two bolts and installed a special hanger for the Case onto the carrier. To replace the Case, you pull it off the wall, open the wall, remove the special Case hanger thingy, reinstall the two bolts that had been removed on the standard carrier, and you can mount any 4-bolt wall-mount toilet you want on there. Of the major brands like I list below, they all use the same standard bolt pattern that everyone has used for decades.

    The bad news is that there aren't too many options.

    The American Standard Glenwall is the one that Terry seems to install a lot of. It now comes with a Flushmate pressure-assist, so it does a decent job. http://www.homedepot.com/p/American-...1#.Ul9SqTb-71E

    Gerber makes a non-pressure-assist Maxwell wall-hung, but I have to wonder how good the flush is. http://www.gerberonline.com/item.aspx?itemid=2958

    Mansfield makes a Quantum wall-hung pressure-assist with a Sloan Flushmate. (Do NOT get the EcoQuantum with the WDI Eco-Flush, because Terry labels all WDI Eco-Flush toilets "avoid" because the units have demonstrated exceptionally-poor reliability. The Sloan Flushmate ones are fine.) http://www.mansfieldplumbing.com/Pro...s/Quantum.aspx

    Mansfield isn't a brand that gets recommended a lot on here, but I'm trying to be inclusive.

    There is another brand, too, I think, with a wall-hung back-outlet, and it has just slipped my mind.

    But like I say, the Glenwall is the one Terry installs the most.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 10-17-2013 at 10:23 PM.

  15. #45
    DIY Junior Member NE_JV's Avatar
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    Default Thank you

    That is the advise I needed. Thank you very much. I will replace the plunger and seat tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll get a plumber that can help assess replacing it all or putting a new one in. I may be back with a few questions along the way.

    Thank you very much for taking the time to help me with this. I really appreciate you time.

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