Case 3000 Wall Mounted Toilet

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WJcandee

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You say you're working on it, and then you seem to say that you're thinking of replacing it.

HJ seems to really like these toilets and thinks they are worth repairing.

Tell us what it isn't doing or is doing wrong, and maybe we can help diagnose what you need to do.

I just got a complicated AS Galleria working well again, and the only thing I actually replaced was the flapper, although I was ready to replace the plunger and cap in the ballcock if need be. As it turned out, what I really needed to do to address all the symptoms I didn't like was to tweak, tweak and tweak, and now it runs as well as it can.
 

tmurphy

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Thanks for the feed back.
The lady is giving up on this unit.
Replaced the seal ball. The unit fills very slowly and noisily. Must lift the float ball to stop refill
Ballock body parts appear very worn, the float rod is bent.

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WJcandee

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Frankly, replacing those items doesn't sound like that big a deal; new float rod and ball, new plunger and gasket, and you're probably back in business. Toilets seem like a big mess ready for the junkyard when they don't work, then you replace a flapper or a fill valve part, or adjust a chain length and VOILA!, good as new.
 

gbenton4

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I'm looking into replacing one of my Case 3000. My question is does anyone have some information on the bolt patter of the hanger? I know the lower bolts are 9 in. apart center to center. The upper bolts or if there is a hanger bracket, it is hidden from view. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
 

hj

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quote; The upper bolts or if there is a hanger bracket, it is hidden from view. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

The "carrier" in the wall is a conventional one. The upper bolt holes are there, but since the 3000 did not use them they are inside the wall and just need 5/8" threaded studs and nuts to create a 4 bolt pattern. The upper hanger bar for the 3000 is attached to the wall studs and has to be removed if you convert to a conventional wall hung toilet.
 

robertmccrory

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Hello, not sure if I should reply to this thread or start a new one.

I have a Case 3000 toilet and the bar for the ballcock broke off. I had Rotorooter come out and they told me I needed to replace all of the insides of the toilet, total was $550 including labor. So I paid them and they replaced the insides, but the toilet now doesn't flush right (you have to pull up on the handle after flushing and the ball cock stays under water and does not shut off unless you take off the back and pull it up above the water). They replaced everything on the inside, but did not replace the trip lever assembly, and they used a tank ball that doesn't match and hooked it up to the existing lift wire. I just ordered a new trip lever assembly and tank ball kit (another $75) and plan on attaching that myself to see if it helps with having to pull up on the lever, but I will still have the problem with the ballcock not floating up once the tank is filled. I've tried adjusting the two adjustments on the ballcock stem but they don't seem to do anything, it's almost like the new parts are too loose at the pivoting parts and the rising water is causing a bind in them that prevents it from floating up. Any ideas? My water bill was $150 higher last month because of this toilet and I'm sick of throwing money at this problem with no results. Thank You!!
 

hj

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quote; My question is does anyone have some information on the bolt patter of the hanger? I know the lower bolts are 9 in. apart center to center

The basic carrier is a standard one, except they do not use the upper bolts for the toilet. It has a hanger bar that supports the toilet. You have to remove that from the wall then install the two top 5/8" rods with the proper nuts, washers, etc. into the carrier fitting. IF they are not assembled in the right order, you can, and probably will, crack the toilet.
 

robertmccrory

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Getting new toilet

So I had another plumber come out and they took one look and told me I should replace just replace the toilet instead of pouring more money into keeping this one repaired. I'm sick of trying to get this thing to work - if anyone is interested in some super cheap internals (just had them all replaced, though nobody could ever get them working properly) or a brand new handle, or even the stool itself (won't be shipping that one though) let me know.
 

WJcandee

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They "took one look" because they are morons or because Roto-Rooter's incompetent job damaged it. (Most likely: I dunno what that thar thing is...better rip it out before I reveal my ignorance.)

Or more specifically, that's because they're not used to dealing with a Case 3000. HJ says it's one of the best toilets ever made; just because some hack will find it easier to replace the toilet rather than just fixing the stem and seat in the fill valve for $25 (instead, replacing "everything" because they don't know how to FIX things), doesn't mean that that's the best move.

It's like leaving your '65 corvette by the side of the road because Roto Rooter doesn't know how to adjust a carburetor.

The key word in your story is "Roto-Rooter". Sigh.

If you do replace it, read the whole thread here so some other hack doesn't persuade you you have to rip out your whole wall and install a new carrier.
 
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robertmccrory

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They "took one look" because they are morons or because Roto-Rooter's incompetent job damaged it. (Most likely: I dunno what that thar thing is...better rip it out before I reveal my ignorance.)

Or more specifically, that's because they're not used to dealing with a Case 3000. HJ says it's one of the best toilets ever made; just because some hack will find it easier to replace the toilet rather than just fixing the stem and seat in the fill valve for $25 (instead, replacing "everything" because they don't know how to FIX things), doesn't mean that that's the best move.

It's like leaving your '65 corvette by the side of the road because Roto Rooter doesn't know how to adjust a carburetor.

The key word in your story is "Roto-Rooter". Sigh.

If you do replace it, read the whole thread here so some other hack doesn't persuade you you have to rip out your whole wall and install a new carrier.

Ha! Yeah, I learned my lesson with Roto-Rooter - I'll never use them again. The current local guy has been great though with all the other problems I've had lately (had a microscopic leak where minerals had broken through the main inlet at an elbow, replaced the kitchen sink and the drain crumbled apart - got to love old houses). In addition to Roto-Rooter I've tried for hours myself adjusting the new case parts but for some reason the damn ball just won't float up and stop the water from running. If i grab it and pull it up it will stop and float on top, but I have to give it some pretty good force to get it to come up - it feels like the arm is really stiff. The new guy played with it for a while and said he thought we got a bad set of replacement parts and suggested that I get roto-rooter back out to get them returned though he said he would personally just replace the whole thing if it were his to save myself money in the long run. I'm at the point now where I'd rather just move on and stop messing with the damn thing.
 

WJcandee

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Okay, RIP Case 3000.

Maybe HJ will weigh in on here before you do; he might have some insight into getting that float to work right. It's a relatively-simple mechanism.

You might seriously think of giving him a photo like he asked for in the post above, to see if he sees something. He's so amazingly-knowledgeable, you'd be surprised what he can tell you.

Earlier in this thread and on some others, there are instructions on how to put in a AS Glenwall (which Terry installs quite a few of) or Gerber Maxwell. They're pretty much the only game in town right now, but the Glenwall with the pressure-assist apparently does a decent job.

Both of those are 4-bolt toilets. As you will see from the other threads, the Case is installed over a standard 4-bolt carrier, but two of the holes aren't used. You have to remove the Case stuff and install the two top bolts, as further explained in those threads. Then you just use that same carrier that's already in there to hang your Glenwall on.

Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
 
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robertmccrory

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Anything I should be adjusting other than what is circled in green on this photo? I've tried tightening/loosening both of those without any luck:

IMG_0048.jpg


I found out the hard way last night not to unscrew the thing in the very far top left of the next photo. :p
IMG_0049.jpg
 

NE_JV

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Case 3000 Continuous Running

I have a Case 3000 that has recently began to give me problems and I have 3 of these so I figured I better figure out how they work. These toilets are cool but they are much more complicated then what I'm accustomed to.

My issue is that water continues to fill the back tank. I replaced the tank ball with a triple seal part no. B-251 to ensure that the problem wasn't that the water was running into the bowl. However, when I turn the water on it is as though the toilet never recognizes it is full. Any help would be appreciated. I've attached a few pictures even though I know you all know what I"m talking about.

IMG_0576.jpg
IMG_0579.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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Sorry that I can't be specific, but some of the old toilets used a proprietary toilet fill valve and you can't replace it with anything but an original. I do not know if yours is that way, but it may be. The valve MIGHT be able to be rebuilt, if you can find the parts, or maybe even find a new one that would fit. On some of these, you can almost buy a new toilet for the cost of the parts. If you're lucky, a conventional toilet fill valve will fit, and those only cost, typically, less than $20 or so (Korky and Fluidmaster are probably the two biggest makers in the US, and the easiest to find in universal replacements).

One of the pros who has worked on them would probably know for sure. But, it sounds like the toilet fill valve is not shutting off. You may want to shut the supply valve off in between uses. If one of those is running a lot, your water (and maybe sewer) bill could be a VERY big surprise! You can be dumping LOTS of water down the drain if it runs continuously into the overflow. I'm talking doubling or even more on your water/sewer bill. In some places, that's a pittance, but in others, it can add up to really big bucks.
 

Gary Swart

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I did a quick Google search for Case 3000 parts. On the site I found, they listed a complete rebuild kit for $342.95. Individual parts were also listed and they were quite pricey as well. If you need the complete rebuild, it would be less money to get a new Toto Drake and have a far better toilet for less money. Those old Cases are real water guzzlers as well. If you want to check the part prices and availability, just Google search Case 3000 toilet.
 

JohnjH2o1

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If it's just the fill valve that needs replacing the fluid master 400# should work.

John
 
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