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Thread: Case 3000 Wall Mounted Toilet

  1. #16
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Maany plumbers do not know how to repair Case/Briggs 1000 and 3000 toilets although it somewhat simple. IT would be rare that they needed all new parts unless something acturally cracked and broke. Those toilets, since the cannot overflow were some of the best toilets ever made, and I would not replace one with a Glenwall unless the toilet itself was cracked.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member tmurphy's Avatar
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    Default Case 3000 rebuild

    Working on a Case 3000. Have several questions:
    Does any one have schematic/drawing of the internal parts?
    Can the old parts, ballcock, float ball,etc be replaced with Fluidmaster setup?
    Any suggestions
    Thanks
    Tim

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Lots of places online seem to have parts, although getting the whole shebang is expensive. However, there seem to be kits to repair or replace the *moving* parts; hard to see why you'd need the whole ballcock or fill valve, for example. E.g. http://www.lockeplumbing.com/search....AS300&x=12&y=8

    I would search on "Case 3000 Parts".

    Because the thing has a complicated diverter as does my old lowboy AS toilet, you can't have it work right if you just try to replace it with a fluidmaster fill valve.

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member tmurphy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueHouse View Post
    Time for a Glenwall or Yorkville.
    will Yorkville drop in without any retro fit?

  5. #20
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Most wall hung toilets use a four bolt carrier, unless you are going for the in-wall system.
    The following use a 4 bolt carrier.
    American Standard Glenwall
    Gerber Maxwell 20-021 wall hung

    The Case 3000 installation would need to be updated (changed) to a current 4 bolt carrier if you intend to switch.
    Last edited by Terry; 01-10-2014 at 09:50 AM.

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    You say you're working on it, and then you seem to say that you're thinking of replacing it.

    HJ seems to really like these toilets and thinks they are worth repairing.

    Tell us what it isn't doing or is doing wrong, and maybe we can help diagnose what you need to do.

    I just got a complicated AS Galleria working well again, and the only thing I actually replaced was the flapper, although I was ready to replace the plunger and cap in the ballcock if need be. As it turned out, what I really needed to do to address all the symptoms I didn't like was to tweak, tweak and tweak, and now it runs as well as it can.

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member tmurphy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feed back.
    The lady is giving up on this unit.
    Replaced the seal ball. The unit fills very slowly and noisily. Must lift the float ball to stop refill
    Ballock body parts appear very worn, the float rod is bent.

  8. #23
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Frankly, replacing those items doesn't sound like that big a deal; new float rod and ball, new plunger and gasket, and you're probably back in business. Toilets seem like a big mess ready for the junkyard when they don't work, then you replace a flapper or a fill valve part, or adjust a chain length and VOILA!, good as new.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member tmurphy's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all the help

  10. #25
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    IF you really want to replace the entire mechanism, most Briggs toilet distributors can sell you the complete parts.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member gbenton4's Avatar
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    I'm looking into replacing one of my Case 3000. My question is does anyone have some information on the bolt patter of the hanger? I know the lower bolts are 9 in. apart center to center. The upper bolts or if there is a hanger bracket, it is hidden from view. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member jelynne's Avatar
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    Do you have a recommendation for a replacement for a wall hung case 3000? In desperate need!

  13. #28
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; The upper bolts or if there is a hanger bracket, it is hidden from view. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

    The "carrier" in the wall is a conventional one. The upper bolt holes are there, but since the 3000 did not use them they are inside the wall and just need 5/8" threaded studs and nuts to create a 4 bolt pattern. The upper hanger bar for the 3000 is attached to the wall studs and has to be removed if you convert to a conventional wall hung toilet.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member Robert McCrory's Avatar
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    Hello, not sure if I should reply to this thread or start a new one.

    I have a Case 3000 toilet and the bar for the ballcock broke off. I had Rotorooter come out and they told me I needed to replace all of the insides of the toilet, total was $550 including labor. So I paid them and they replaced the insides, but the toilet now doesn't flush right (you have to pull up on the handle after flushing and the ball cock stays under water and does not shut off unless you take off the back and pull it up above the water). They replaced everything on the inside, but did not replace the trip lever assembly, and they used a tank ball that doesn't match and hooked it up to the existing lift wire. I just ordered a new trip lever assembly and tank ball kit (another $75) and plan on attaching that myself to see if it helps with having to pull up on the lever, but I will still have the problem with the ballcock not floating up once the tank is filled. I've tried adjusting the two adjustments on the ballcock stem but they don't seem to do anything, it's almost like the new parts are too loose at the pivoting parts and the rising water is causing a bind in them that prevents it from floating up. Any ideas? My water bill was $150 higher last month because of this toilet and I'm sick of throwing money at this problem with no results. Thank You!!

  15. #30
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; My question is does anyone have some information on the bolt patter of the hanger? I know the lower bolts are 9 in. apart center to center

    The basic carrier is a standard one, except they do not use the upper bolts for the toilet. It has a hanger bar that supports the toilet. You have to remove that from the wall then install the two top 5/8" rods with the proper nuts, washers, etc. into the carrier fitting. IF they are not assembled in the right order, you can, and probably will, crack the toilet.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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