2 easy one with a picture!

Hello!

I've got to easy questions and you can refer to the picture in attachment.

For a toilet, do I need to put a 12'’ pipe above the T to reduce the high pressure or nothing is ok?

To reduce the high pressure, I put a 12'’ pipe above the T as you can see up on the picture. For the basement, is it ok to have the 12'’ pipe below the T or it needs to be absolutely above the T like the Kitchen sink?

What you are showing are water hammer arresters do not reduce pressure.
Install pressure reducing valve on your main after the meter.

I'm sorry due to my poor english, I'm french. Actually I was talking about water hammer arrester.

Then my question would be :

1. Do I need to put a water hammer arrester on a toilet?
2. Can I put a water hammer arrester up side down as my drawing shows??

Again, sorry for my poor english..

Thans a lot?

FrankPlumber said:

1. Do I need to put a water hammer arrester on a toilet?

Click to expand...

I didn't but the toilet was within 3 meters of the arester on the sink.

FrankPlumber said:

2. Can I put a water hammer arrester up side down as my drawing shows??

Click to expand...

No the purpose of the arester is to trap air to allow for a cushion effect when the water stops.

Rancher

Interesting drawing. You left off the vents for the waste lines. There is about half the waste and vents missing.

The toilet is not required to have a hammer arrester.
They are normally on washers, dishwashers and ice makers.
If they are sealed hammer arrestors, then they can be mounted in any direction.

The vertical length of tubing catches air which acts as a cushion, so abrubt shutoff of the water doesn't hammer. The shock absorber must start at the bottom with the closed end at the top -- otherwise the water will just run down into the tube and no air will be trapped.

I had a shock absorber set-up like this for a long time, and what I noticed was that after a few months the air in the tube would dissappear and the shock absorber effect was lost. I had to periodically drain down the supply lines to re-introduce the air. It got annoying and so I eventually swapped the air columns out for sealed hammer arrestors. These things have a rubber diaphragm and spring and don't need to be drained once in a while to keep working. In my case I'd built the air columns inside the kitchen cabinet, not roughed into the wall.

To Terry!

Thanks for your comments about my drawing. As for as waste and vent go, I didn't put my whole drawing on the board because I made 1 drawing for DWV and 1 drawing for water supply then I merge just a part of those 2 drawings for my questions.

But if anybody wants my drawing, I have no problem with it.

Thanks again to everybody, I'm almost set to start to build my house next march...

Frank

1 pressure reducing valve + 1 expansion tank located at inlet to water heater and charged to house pressure + 0 water hammer arrestors = no water hammer.

smellslike$tome said:

1 pressure reducing valve + 1 expansion tank located at inlet to water heater and charged to house pressure + 0 water hammer arrestors = no water hammer.

Click to expand...

maybe. I know Washington code requires hammer arrestors on any quick acting valve, ie solenoid valves.

I also know they require expansion tanks if conditions don't allow expansion back to the city water main.

Oregon doesn't require hammer arrestors on residential. although we all know that doesn't mean it won't happen.

I've also seen water hammer with PRV+Tank.