Low HW pressure on Tankless System

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GMrules

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I have Nortiz Tank less HW system in my house till recently I had good HW pressure, Now when I turn on more than 1 facet have little to no pressure.

I am on a private well who water is little hard and I do get calcium build up on the show heads and the tiles and the toilets do show the brown / orange stains

Today I cleaned out the strainer on the cold water inlet to the unit hoping that would be my problem but it was not.

I am suspecting the heat exchanger needs to be flused and cleaned out with like CDR or something like that to de-scale it.

Am I on the right lines or completely off base?

any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
george
 

MACPLUMB

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Low Hw Pressure

:D

YES MERRY CHRISTMAS;

DO NOT USE CRL;


you need something safe for drinking water, ie; potable water,
use eather white vinger or AO SMITH sales a food grade acid to flush though
the heat exchanger this may several passes to clear out the lime buildup:(

then flush with clear water a couple times before putting back into service:D

JERRYMAC MASTERPLUMBER PH.D WATER HEATEROLGY
 

GrumpyPlumber

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Two other items, check the cold inlet for a screen...you might just have sediment clogging it.
If the GPM rating is 3 GPM or less, it's the flow restrictor...which means your unit is undersized.
You should do a vinegar flush at least once a year, depending on your water content.
 

gmt

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I concur with the two posts above.

Additionally, it may be undersized and is compensating for keeping the water temperature at the desired setting. Some of the units will restrict the flow in order for it to get the water warmed up to the required temperature.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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How old a Nortiz??

I am not starting trouble here...

but I would be interested in hearing how hard the water is??

wether they have a water conditioner or not.??


and how long has this tankless heater has been installed??


If the filter is jsut the only problem you will be lucky

If it needs to be de-limed , then it is something you
will have to do "every so often"


that is what I am curious about...
 
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SRdenny

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Deliming with CLR is not too difficult if you have these installed on your heater.
 

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SRdenny

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I haven't had to do it, yet. But I've got a Zoeller dewatering pump, hoses, bucket, and a bottle of CLR ready to go when the first call comes. I figure it should take about an hour w/a little travel time added in ($150.00). As for the $100.00 cost for the iso valves, they come with a pressure relief port and a pressure relief valve. Add that to the valve you would have had to put on anyway and the true cost comes down to about $60.00. Plus, they install quickly. I usually put in the bigger units, so an $100.00 really isn't an issue, especially when you consider the cost of the Cat III flue pipe.
 

GMrules

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Low Water Pressure

Thanks all that replied, to answer some of your questions

Its a Nortiz N-084m (LP)
Its in 3 1/2 Years
Water Kinda Hard Just happen to have the
water tested by the county

Calcium 30.0
Chloride IC: 40
Cooper <.05
Iron : <.10
Hardness :as CaCO3 (Ca,MG) 101
Magnesium 6.4
Manganese : <.03
Lead <.005
PH 7.4
Zinc .97

I do get build up at the shower head of the white crap

I do not have the isolating values installed, I was wondering if I could do this

The heater is sweated in BUT, it converts back to PEX in my crawl which I can stand up in, so I wanted to install isolating values on the PEX Like so:


Heater ------- Tee -- Ball Value -- House
|
|
Ball Valve

Do this on both Hot & Cold, Would that not Isolate the Tank so I can de-scale it?

Where could I get Food grade vinegar? How long do I run the pump to clean and then to flush?

I am sure this is the issue. I did clean the screen was not too dirty BTW,

Thanks so so much Happy New Year

George
 

Bob NH

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You get food-grade vinegar at the grocery store. You can probably get gallon size at some of the warehouse outlets.

It works better if the vinegar is hot. Put a couple of gallons in a bucket and pump from the bucket. Dump the return in the bucket and keep it hot.

I don't know a good way to measure when it's done. It only takes about 5 minutes to clean a really bad teakettle but that is with the vinegar boiling. I suspect that it will take longer with a water heater.

You can probably save the vinegar for a second time.
 

Cass

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Based on the cost of vinegar I would toss it.

Phosphoric acid or citric acid will work also, flush well with water when your done, 3-4 times, B 4 placing it back in service.
 
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GMrules

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If I do not put a valve on the hot side how can I isolate it and recover / recirculate?

George
 

Master Plumber Mark

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Exactly how long a process is this????

How exactly do you know when you have
flushed out these things anyway????

When do you know you are back to max efficiencey again???

I mean, do you get a murkey , frothey kind
of chicken soup thing going in the vinegar after
about a half an hour

or are you supposed to let the vinegar sit still in
the exchanger for a 15 minute period then flush it out
and repeat the process over and over agian till the

vinegar looks nasty????
 

GrumpyPlumber

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If I do not put a valve on the hot side how can I isolate it and recover / recirculate?

George

A pump into the cold with a return off the hot side...as long as all hot fixtures are closed you're fine, though it will go into the hot line a bit...the flush has nowhere else to go.

Also, another effective cleaner, DON'T laugh...unsweetened concentrated cool aid.
It has citric acid, as Cass states above.
 

GMrules

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Sorry Mark

According to Nortiz 45 mins you need to circulate the solution

I was expecting a more experienced person to answer :)
 
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