Kitchen sink drain pain

Redwood said:

Seeing as ABS can melt with too fast of a saw speed we know that the melting temperature is very low.

In fact they process it at only 400 degrees. The flash ignition temperature is only 730 degrees and it contains Styrene.
I am so glad that you are not recommending doing it but in the course of not recommending it you sure spent a lot of time explaining how to do something that is not recommended.

Here is the MSDS sheet for ABS pipe!
http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/MSDS/ABS_Pipe_Fittings_MSDS.pdf

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Yes, you are probably right. Perhaps I should not have mentioned it. Sometimes though the job just has to get done. You look at your options and don't like any of them so you just hold your nose and take the lesser of evils. When faced with heating up a joint to save it versus breaking up tile and concrete I have to confess that I personally am probably going to attempt to heat up the joint in an effort to save it.

construct30 said:

Sorry smelllike$tome I should not have used you as a bad example. wrong place wrong time. You were there. I appologize.

Does heating the pipe only work on saving the fitting and removing the pipe or both ways.

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np

I can't say that I really ever remember trying to take a hub off of a pipe. I imagine it could still work except that you would probably be much more likely to warp the pipe unless you were somehow able to apply the heat from outside of the hub. If you heat it from outside the hub I don't know how evenly you could heat it?

interalian said:

Seems I may have touched off a bit of a firestorm - farthest from my intentions.

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Not at all.
Looks to me like a discussion on differing opinions with no hits below the belt.

Infact I say post a picture! I'd like to see if there is an easy way to Git-r-done!

Redwood said:

Infact I say post a picture! I'd like to see if there is an easy way to Git-r-done!

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I'll snap a shot today so you all can see.

Perhaps tearing into the wall isn't such a bad idea since the damage will be behind the dishwasher.

Cheers,
AD

I would never recommend using open flame next to drain pipes. In some areas, the sewer gases are relatively harmless, in more populous areas, the gas is flammable and even explosive. Not to mention that, should you get a flame going inside the pipe, you may as well call the fire department and get everybody out of the house.

Tore it out in the end and extended the attachment to the vent and added an offset at the floor with a 45 and street 45. The old stack was pretty much straight in line with the edge of the cabinet and wouldn't allow the diswasher to fit. The old fitting for the vent was a 45 and came out to the left of the stud which is now notched. The new stack fits inside the cabinet and the DW fits perfectly.

Thanks for the encouragement!



I love the smell of ABS cement in the morning -- smells like victory.

OK, now the drain is corrected, the dishwasher is fubar.

After re-installing and noting the drain line was kinked just aft of the attachment to the DW, removal saw all kinds of white flaky crud in the line. Removed the crud, cleared the drain hose and installed - now the DW isn't draining properly.

Ages ago, I saw a note about DW needing the drain hose to be looped high in the cabinet or it wouldn't drain. Hose is as high as possible and is attached to the garburator (yes, the knock-out is knocked out). I do see water in the GD but it's slow and the DW is still not draining.

DW is a Kenmore Elite about 5 years old and was working fine before the renos started.

Arghhhh!