Leak under subfloor in basement from toilet

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satellite_chris

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I added a few photos to help describe.

I noticed a few drops of water on the basement floor a few days ago and found some moisture on the pipes above. After drying things off, I noticed again the next day. I decided that I probably rocked the toilet loose and broke the seal of the way ring. After replacing the wax ring, I still find moisture. It appears that it is at the Y where the straight PVC coming from the flange above the floor. See the attached drawing for an idea.

Before I start replacing PVC, could it be something simple? Could there be a blockage somewhere in the line that is causing high pressure and ultimately a minor leak at that y?

Is there any way of resealing a PVC joint without replacing the pipe? The clearance is very close and couplings won't do. I will have to replace a rather large section of pipe :(

Thanks for any help you can provide.
Chris :eek:
 

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Terry

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Who plumbed that?

It looks like an illegal plumbing job.

Most of the time, a plumber would remove the pipe from the fitting and install new pipe with new glue.

There are ways to chip out the old pipe from the fitting.
 

gary gates

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Why Illegal?

Terry, I'm new here too and eager to learn. What is wrong in the picture that tells you something is wrong. I did notce a lack of visible primer....is that it? Regarding the comment on chipping out the old and gluing in new fittings. Can you comment further?
 
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Zenman

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leak fix and what I see as "not to code"

satellite_chris -
As Plumber2000 said, you can add some glue to the joint AND if you can, use a "shop vac" to create suction to pull the glue in.

gary gates -
As a DIYer who just completed a similar job I can see somethings that would not pass an inspection from my building inspector...

1. No purple primer (even though they do sell clear primer)

2. The horizontal vent Wye must be rolled up 45 degrees, currently it is almost horizontal.
 

Terry

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The vent should be rolled off higher, and what is that pipe coming out of the end of the santee?

If you are running more fixtures down the line from somewhere else right past the toilet, that would be wrong.

A common thing I'm seeing lately on the board, is homeowners that don't stick with one fixture, one vent.
 

Zenman

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Replacing the pipe...

If you are going by the (code) book (and my plumbing inspector), you should replace the leaking section.

They do make a fitting saver tool that bores out solvent welded pipe in pvc/cpvc... couple that I've heard of are called Pipe hog, fitting saver, Ram Bit, Pipe Shredder... but they aren't cheap.
 
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DoItAllman

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If you want to be really sure your toilet isn't leaking from the wax ring stop using wax rings, really they suck. I will only use better than wax a rubber seal that will give you at least 10 years of ZERO leaks, no more rotted floors dripping stuff nothing. With wax rings it's hit or miss plus a plunger can literally ruin a wax ring with the suction. I also recommend plastic tank bolts if your toilet messes up and leaks at least it will be way easier to remove since the bolts will be plastic.
 

Reach4

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If you want to be really sure your toilet isn't leaking from the wax ring stop using wax rings, really they suck. I will only use better than wax a rubber seal that will give you at least 10 years of ZERO leaks, no more rotted floors dripping stuff nothing. With wax rings it's hit or miss plus a plunger can literally ruin a wax ring with the suction. I also recommend plastic tank bolts if your toilet messes up and leaks at least it will be way easier to remove since the bolts will be plastic.
1. To blow out the wax with a plunger implies the soil pipe was clogged. I don't think plunging will cause a problem if the only stoppage is in the toilet trapway.... but how would you know?

2. I would worry that plastic tank bolts could not supply enough compression of the gasket. The gasket should be compressed until you almost have three points of contact of the porcelain. Brass tank bolts should stay removable. I am not a plumber.
 
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