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Thread: Price Pfister Diverter problem

  1. #1

    Default Price Pfister Diverter problem

    I replaced the diverter stem on a PP because the old one was not diverting all the water to the shower head (over half the water was still running down the tub spout.) The old stem had a crack in the washer so I thought replacing the whole diverter stem would solve the problem but over half the water still runs out the tub spout even with the new stem in place. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Did you replace the seat?

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Did you get the proper diverter stem with the white nylon diverter washer in behind the nose of the stem?

    Might try removing the diverter stem, checking the nylon washer, and then reinstalling to make sure it all seats well.

  4. #4

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    It is the exact stem and the nylon washer is behind the nose of the stem (that was the washer that was cracked before.) I did not replace the seat. It looks like you need a special tool to remove it? I also removed that new washer and put it in the old stem but that didn't help either.

  5. #5
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    You need to replace the seat! Yes, you need a seat wrench set to do that!

  6. #6

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    Thanks for the quick replies. I'll try that.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    The rubber flat washer and seat keep water from going to the shower head when the spout is in use. The nylon back seat washer is the one which keeps water from going to the spout when the shower head is used, so I still suspect your problem is in that area.

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Pp

    The seat is not the problem. When you install the diverter it has to be the exact dimension to "double seat" in the valve. If you left the old black washer on the body when you installed the new one, that would make it too short to double seat. Or if the new gasket is too thick it will also prevent proper installation. One thing to try is to remove the plastic gasket above the body threads and wrap a thick layer of Teflon tape at that point. Then when it is installed the tape will compress to whatever thickness is necessary for proper tightening.

  9. #9

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    You're right. Replacing the seat did not help. The washer on the stem body was thicker than the old one and I tried installing the stem without the washer but that didn't help either. As I mentioned before, I did try only replacing the broken washer behind the nose with a new one and used all the rest of the existing old stem and parts, but that didn't work either. I'm helping a friend who just moved into this house with this issue so we don't know how long it's been like that or if it ever worked properly. Any other ideas? Thanks to all your responses to try to help.

  10. #10
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    At this point I would carefully inspect inside the valve body with a flashlight, looking for remnants of old washers and gaskets which sometimes lodge inside there.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Coreyrocknroll's Avatar
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    Did you get the proper diverter stem with the white nylon diverter washer in behind the nose of the stem?

    I am having the same problem as this guy. Can someone please educate me on the “nose” of the stem terminology? I am missing the nylon diverter washer and I want to make sure I purchase the proper one and install it correctly. Thanks

  12. #12
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    By "nose" I mean the very tip of the stem. On PP and others, that end looks just like the hot/cold stems. There is a rubber washer attached with a screw. On the PP, and others, that rubber washer seals when you turn the diverter in Clockwise for TUB function. It stops any water from going out into the shower pipe. Behind the nose, is the nylon washer. When the diverter is turned CCW, for shower function, the nylon washer is pressed against a surface inside the valve body, such that water is blocked from flowing to the passage which leads to spout.

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    I agree with Pp. Another possibility is that the leak past the diverter washer has gone on for so long that the surface it seals against is eroded. I have run into that before and was able to overcome it by sustituting a 3/8" union washer for the diverter washer. It is thicker and soft so it mashes in and fills the gap. The Larsen supply number for the 3/8" union washer is 02-2004, but is available from others with different numbers. Get a couple if you find them, they may not last as long as the nylon original. That said, I think Pp is probably correct.

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member Coreyrocknroll's Avatar
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    So when you say there is a nylon (diverter) washer "behind the nose" Is the diverter washer attached with the same screw that holds the rubber washer? Please excuse my ignorance. Thanks for your help Jimbo.

  15. #15
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coreyrocknroll View Post
    So when you say there is a nylon (diverter) washer "behind the nose" Is the diverter washer attached with the same screw that holds the rubber washer? Please excuse my ignorance. Thanks for your help Jimbo.


    No....you completely unscrew the stem out of the body. The white washer slips over the stem, they you put screw the stem back in to the body, and put the whole thing back into the wall.

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