Basement Toilet Install

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Mac74

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I'm installing a basement toilet over a roughed in 4" drain. The PVC cap on the drain must be glued in place because I can't budge it and don't want to crack the pipe by getting too heavy-handed with a pry bar. Should I just saw the pipe off flush with the concrete floor and install the flange over the opening? Also, is there a check I can do to ensure the drain has a p-trap installed? Finally, should I caulk around the flange to ensure a good seal?
 

Terry

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Plumbing a toilet does not require a p-trap.
The trap is in the bowl.

There is normally a vent behind the outlet for the toilet within six feet hidden in a wall.

If you have a 4" plastic pipe in the slab, you can cut it flush with the floor and glue in a closet flange that fits inside the 4" pipe.
Most outlets for toilets are in the 2" range.
Will will want to secure the flange to the floor after gluing it in.
You can either drill beforehand or after, your preference.

 
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Verdeboy

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Ideally, the flange should sit on top of the finished floor. So, if your tiling, you should wait 'til your done before gluing and anchoring the flange.

RE: caulking the flange, we just had a recent thread on this. I mentioned that I've never done it or seen it done. Don't know how others stand on the issue.
 

Gary Swart

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It is OK to glue a flange inside a 4" pipe. This does not reduce the drain size enough to cause a problem. If your pipe was a 3", you could not do this because that would reduce the drain size too much. If you cut the existing flange off flush with the existing floor then install a new floor, the new flange has enough length to go well inside of the pipe. There is no need to caulk around the flange. Be very sure the new flange sets solidly on the finished floor and that it is oriented correctly so the flange bolts that hold the toilet in place are parallel with the back wall so that the toilet will not set cockeyed. After gluing the new flange into the pipe, it should be anchored through the flooring and into the concrete. There are several ways of doing this. Many like Tapcon bolts, and they certainly do work. My preferred method of anchoring screws into concrete is to use lead inserts and stainless steel sheet metal screws. This does require a small rotary-hammer drill to drill the holes for the inserts. I own one of these drills, which probably explains why I like this method.
 
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