installing nail plates (guards).
Here as well, mandatory on the bottom plates, top plates, vents, water lines.
Here, we're supposed to keep plastic/copper pipe 3" away from exterior sheathing for the obvious reason...how many times have you bumped your head into nail stubs in a basement subfloor or attic sheathing while working?
This is obviously a jurisdictional thing here, but personally I wouldn't do it even if I were allowed unless I had no choice, even then I'd guard it.
It's been years since I've done new construction but every house we worked in had linoleum floors, tile wasn't as popular as it is today like it was back then......linoleum was king. <<< No need for the applications today. We always nailed 2X4's up against the joists vertical and ran them paralell with the joist making sure we nailed on the side where we followed the overlap board at the beam where joists come together. On kitchen sink water lines where there was a cantilever we'd bring up through the floor first, 90 over and let them rest on blocking, then turn it up through the bottom of the cabinet.
I however can recall at least once in the past few years where I ran a water line right up against the floor, had to fight a large round ductwork and going below wasn't an option. I used armaflex to protect the copper line from galvanic reaction to the ductwork.....no other options.
I use hole saws, less mess, they eat nails for breakfast, sure they take a little longer, but so does sharpening self feeds
I only use 1 hole saw; 4-3/4" for closet flanges, the same one for holes in shower walls whether concrete board for showers or fiberglass. I use a large expensive carbide in a cordless drill to sharpen my self feeds rather quickly.
The 3 lb mini sledge removes studs nicely, then you secure your valve with strapping and let the Einstein figure out how to frame around it, guaranteed not to happen after the first couple of times.
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Thats an easy fix but you're forgetting the cross brace for the shower lug ell for the shower head. Yes....it's nice to have one precut board for the equation but it always requires two to make a uniform install and the drywallers appreciate the consideration of something within the 16" oc realm. Otherwise I'm cutting a board 26" and taking it to the edge nailing flange of the shower. <<< That would get removed and reworked due to that application.
Cut 1/2" strapping into 2" segments, break in half, put under the flange as spacers and screw flange into subfloor.
Glue from under and work away happily ever after.
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I'm talking from a rework point of view. We used to use 1/2" copper cut to size to raise for the tile guys when it was spec'd for it. Wood seemingly wood disappear before the tile guys would arrive due to someone hitting them.
The overlay of the floors is where the problems start, some of them think straining that piping and pulling up works; it doesn't. The correct method.....and most times there will be no access through the ceiling below, cut out and rework, install new wood if rotten/can't get right height and drill through new surface completely,reset.
I'm 100% with you on my thoughts on new residential construction, it's all about low bids, passing responsibility, and getting it done so fast you wonder if everything was done right.
Not to mention, English as a second language.
Whatever it takes for developers to make good money.[/quote]
I'm so glad I'm out of new construction. Some of these larger homes required everything tucked in the joists, working off the tolerances of PVC pipe and fittings and numerous, NUMEROUS times we had to cut the hubs or street ends of PVC pipe fittings to make tight turns or otherwise to get from point A to point B without any structural modifications. They just simply wouldn't allow it. Then fish water lines around that equation in the center only of the joists; when I was doing new construction we could do the bottom of the joists, notching them all the way from one end of the house to the other.
Think the opposite of bottom and thirty years ago and plumbers would install water lines, mostly galvanized in the top of the joists and notch them to whereever they needed to go. Of course, driving a nail through galvanized piping would definitely make you special....special to accomplish that feat.
In today's age of materials...just pulling product against a sharp edge can produce failure points. That's what scares me about sharkbites or anything relying on an 0-ring to protect from leaking. I've seen copper knurled/ovalled/imperfect from transport.....CPVC with scratches and grooves, gouges from damage I assume from plant to structure.
This thread gives me interest to keep camera close and near for the next carpenter screwup I see in my line of work. Be prepared.