Entire home rewire by non-pro..

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gt0157c

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Again, more good info/advice...

Bob-Thanks for the code advice. What you are telling me would ease several of my biggest concerns. I'll find out for sure what is needed when I meet the inspector.

As for the plumbing, you all are probably right and I may end up replacing it as well. I realize that it's very logical to do them both at the same time. I honestly just haven't studied it enough yet to see just how difficult it would be. The supply side doesn't concern me that much as pex is fairly easy to work with on old work, but the DWV side could get ugly. I really just need to put some more thought into it...

As for engineers doing shitty work, I agree and have seen it. However a good engineer's thought process/detail/approach to a project like this could also be a good benefit I would think.

G
 

Alectrician

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The supply side doesn't concern me that much as pex is fairly easy to work with on old work, but the DWV side could get ugly

Heh heh....mine did. My last project ended up snowballing into a total DWV replacement. Concrete slab, kitchen, laundry and two bathrooms. The only good news was A) the bathrooms were perimeter walls on the same side as the main and B) the 4" main was in excellent shape (installed after the original septic had been abandoned)

Alectrician-09.jpg


Alectrician-10.jpg



PS. Plumbing and electrical are very much the same. It goes in one end and comes out the other.

PS PS. No pex for me. I didn't trust in in the 80's when they called it polybutylene and I don't trust it now.
 
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Rancher

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Why wouldn't he replace the plumbing at the same time as the electrical, probably cost...

He's doing himself to be able to afford it.

Engineer, or not he can do it.

I've seen lots of trades persons that worked on my house that I wouldn't hire as a technician anywhere...

Oh yes I am an Engineer, live on a ranch, acted as the G.C. built my own house, plumbed it and wired it my self, so far no leaks, or electrical failures.

You do need to read a few books and go to the forums, but he's an engineer he can follow directions, he's not inventing anything.

And most of all as an Engineer he has Common Sense.

You expert tradesmen here may disagree with me but I've been hiring and firing employees for the past 30 years, and I don't rate someone on if they have a degree or not, I hire them on their knowledge and past experience which I check up on. Some of my best people don't have degrees, and some do.

Rancher
 

Bob NH

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I suspect that some of the engineer-bashing may stem from underlying inferiority complexes. Not all, but if the shoe fits, . . .
 

Alectrician

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Don't take it personally if I mention engineers in a less than positive light.
There is no question that most of them know a lot more than a simple mechanic like myself.....BUT almost every single day I see something that somebody was paid big bucks to engineer and design that is flat out dumb.

My one request would be that after they design something on paper, they should personally install it in the field just one time. They would likely say "oh crap" and go back to the drawing board.

One out of 50 times I say "now THAT is good design".

Like those ceiling fan blades that slip on with the keyhole slot/clip thingy. Then in the same box you will get a remote reciever that has ZERO clearance when you try to stuff it into the canopy.

I'm rambling. Good night.
 

Bill Arden

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The inspector that inspected my work liked that I used deep outlets and had a drawing showing the plan. I also used 20 amp circuits as I tend to draw more current in my workshop.

He said that DYI work tends to be better done in terms of details, while the pros do a better job of meeting the laws.

Then again I ended up using 2-0 copper connecting to the 100 amp sub panel instead of #2 copper for the wires coming from the house panel. The inspector said it's fine.

Back to the topic. I agree in that you should have a pro drop in the new panel or at least the meter and the "stack" (That's what it's called in these parts)

A friend of mine had to do some work with knob and tube wiring and they did fine. It's all in the details.

I know everyone complains about Aluminum, but I've found it to be very reliable in my non-house applications. Then again I like to use Alumaweld(sp?) to solder it.

Things to watch for.
1. "Back Stab" wired outlets. Place the wire around the screw or get the back clamp type.
2. Pipe Grounding issues. This can get tricky. Personally I like CPVC.
3. Coupled ground on GFI strings. I ended up having to buy a 240V GFI breaker because I ran a 12-3WG string for a dual 120V outlet pair of circuits.
4. Sub panels can't tie Neutral to ground. So you have to run 4 wires and remove the "Bonding screw"
 

tinner666

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It's doable. I completely rewired a house of mine a few years ago. Had to install the meter and hook it up too. Richmond Inspector 'required' that. That was scary. Upgraded from a 60A to a 200A
The rest of it was simple enough. I did have to take a simple test to show knowledge of resi electric.
Good luck with the project.
 

BrianJohn

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Whats required:

Common sense
Mechanical abilities.
Basic understanding of the NEC.
Have an electrician check the wiring.

read a few books, take your time, and if you get in over your head GET HELP.

And enough brain power to know when you are in over your head.

When I did residential work one issue I saw with many home owner DIYers was not pulling long enough drops to the boxes. A little extra Romex cost pennies (OK dollars in today's copper market) but simplifies tying in.

I have seen some scary things competed by home owners.
 

tinner666

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Whats required:



When I did residential work one issue I saw with many home owner DIYers was not pulling long enough drops to the boxes. A little extra Romex cost pennies (OK dollars in today's copper market) but simplifies tying in.

I have seen some scary things competed by home owners.

For real! Pull enough to be able to scissor?? it into and out of the boxes. You always cut any excess off, but try to add an 1"!:eek:

Do you sparkies have a word for that? My scissor expression?
 

KD

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Being an electrician is like driving a truck-except when you make a small driving mistake, a passenger named Kato takes $ out of your wallet . For a big mistake he zaps you with a taser. For a huge mistake, he shoots you. If you are an amateur trying to be an electrician-it is like driving blindfolded-because you don't know the rules. Problem is, Kato (the laws of science) is on the job 24/7. This is about worker safety. The mistakes you bury in the wall will show up later at unpredictable times. That is about occupant safety.
 

snafflekid

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An engineer can do this, but it will be done without intuition developed from doing it multiple times and the learning from prior mistakes. It just seems like a lot of work for one person.

If your house has knob and tube, the walls are probably plaster and ugly and cracked. Fishing lots of wire is a pain in the a$$. Why not remodel with sheet rock or is the house not worth it?

Personally, I've always had a fantasy of seeing an old house with restored knob and tube wiring. I'd feel differently about living in it.
 

Verdeboy

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Then in the same box you will get a remote reciever that has ZERO clearance when you try to stuff it into the canopy.

I just installed two of those and had a bear of a time trying to cover all the wires and the receiver with that little canopy.:mad:
 

KD

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A 400 amp service? How large is the house? Will it have electric heating?
 

KD

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I install switches 42" off the floor, measured to the top of the outlet box. Receptacles 19" Some sparkys put switches higher, but I like to avoid teh drywall seams.
 
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