How can you increase the Water Pressure ?

How can you increase the Water Pressure ?

send said:

How can you increase the Water Pressure ?

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It all depends on what is causing it to be low.

Do you have a well or does it come from a water main?

What is the pressure when there is no flow, and what is the pressure when taking a shower?

Tell us about the system and the symptoms.

More info.

If you are on a well, that's one thing.

If on city water, then it can be low pressure from the city, a malfunctioning pressure regulator valve on your house, or it can be related to small or rusted old pipes in the house.

Please fill in some details.

Often the problem will appear to be a pressure issue when it comes to volume or flow issue. A restriction in a line or just having a long line or under sized line could be the problem. There are many considerations; do you have enough pressure at your mains? Do you have an old furred up pipe work, perhaps lead or galv? Is your main stop open fully?
If you install a pressure gauge, you can check pressure. It should be above about 35 PSI. 35 PSI would be on the low side, but should be ok. then look at it when the water is on full in the bathtub. If the pressure is ok until you turn on the water than it is a flow problem.

IMTONY said:

Often the problem will appear to be a pressure issue when it comes to volume or flow issue. A restriction in a line or just having a long line or under sized line could be the problem. There are many considerations; do you have enough pressure at your mains? Do you have an old furred up pipe work, perhaps lead or galv? Is your main stop open fully?
If you install a pressure gauge, you can check pressure. It should be above about 35 PSI. 35 PSI would be on the low side, but should be ok. then look at it when the water is on full in the bathtub. If the pressure is ok until you turn on the water than it is a flow problem.

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Your answer above seems to indicate a flow problem for my situation. I'm on a well. The pressure is well above 35. I currently have copper (schedule M) but am going to replumb to Pex (separate issue) because my water is aggressive and I'm getting pitting and pin hole leaks.

I'm hoping the replumb with a homerun system which hopefully will also help my flow problem. When I currently flush the toilet with only the hot water running in the bathroom, I notice about a 50% decrease in the flow with no other water use in the house! Why would I see any change in the hot water flow when I flush the toilet???

Can you elaborate on exactly what causes and cures a flow problem?

Thanks
Don

This homeowner has posted this question on multiple forums, and has yet to answer the multitude of clarifying questions asked by the plumbers. It has given us windbags plenty of opportunity to opine, but has not solved HIS problem yet!

DonM said:

I'm on a well. The pressure is well above 35. I currently have copper (schedule M) but am going to replumb to Pex (separate issue) because my water is aggressive and I'm getting pitting and pin hole leaks.

I'm hoping the replumb with a homerun system which hopefully will also help my flow problem. When I currently flush the toilet with only the hot water running in the bathroom, I notice about a 50% decrease in the flow with no other water use in the house! Why would I see any change in the hot water flow when I flush the toilet???

Can you elaborate on exactly what causes and cures a flow problem?

Thanks
Don

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A well water system operates with a pressure range, I.E. 30/50 or 40/60 etc.. The air pressure in the pressure tank provides the power to move water when the pump is off. So getting that pressure right is critical. The pressure with no water in the tank must be 1-2 psi less than the cut-in (turn on) the pump setting on the pressure switch. With no water in the tank.

Causes of flow problems when the air pressure and switch settings are correct... something is blocking the flow but... The reason you see a change in hot water flow is because the cold water flow is split between the water heater cold water inlet to feed hot water out of the heater and the cold water going to the toilet. That reduces the pressure to each side of teh system.

If you have aggressive low pH acidic water, you need to treat the water rather than change the plumbing material. You do that with an automatic backwashed acid neutralizer filter. If you go with PEX, your fixtures and appliances still get the acid water.

What pressure range does you system operate in? When was the last time you checked for proper air pressure in the pressure tank with no water in it? Setting it correctly may solve your flow problem or improve it greatly.

Gary Slusser said:

What pressure range does you system operate in? When was the last time you checked for proper air pressure in the pressure tank with no water in it? Setting it correctly may solve your flow problem or improve it greatly.

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The pump comes on when the pressure hits 42, and goes off at 60.

The tank is relatively new- maybe 2-3 years old. I've never checked the pressure with no water in it.

Turn on the water until the pump turns on, turn the water all off, wait until the pump turns off, then turn the water back on. How long does it take for the pump to turn back on? If it turns right back on then the pressure in the tank could be to low or you could have a bad tank. If it takes a while for the pump to turn back on then it is some kind of restriction. Did it used to be OK or has it always been a problem? The tank could be too small for your use, but given what you have said I assume not, especially if the problem is new to you.

construct30 said:

... If it takes a while for the pump to turn back on then it is some kind of restriction.

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But the pump is supposed to take awhile to come back on. Actually for pumps to 1.5 hp, they should stay off for at least 60 seconds for proper cooling. Otherwise the tank is too small.

That is what I said. If the pump cycles really fast then something is up with the tank. If the pump takes a while to turn back on the tank is probably OK, then there is a restriction. The restriction is after the tank in a valve or line.

One way to over come this is to install a pressure tank and check valve. The tank will give you the flow and the check valve will keep the flow going only into the tank or house. The in-coming flow will feed your tank and house as the water is used, so the tank should last for a long time before you see a loss of pressure. I have had good results with this set up. One last thing to check is for clogged aerators at the sinks and showerheads.

Good luck.

construct30 said:

That is what I said. If the pump cycles really fast then something is up with the tank. If the pump takes a while to turn back on the tank is probably OK, then there is a restriction. The restriction is after the tank in a valve or line.

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IMO he should check the tank's air pressure.

Thank you everyone. I took all your advice, and I can happily say that after 11 years of poor water pressure the problem is solved. I can now look forward to my daughters taking their usual long showers which now will cost me more in hot water costs! (A better problem to have than running low on flow)

I had a restriction in the flow. When I bought the home in '96 there was an in line house water filter just after the water tank. Due to a suggested water treatment I then added a second double size filter in line after the smaller filter (the larger filter was supposed to minimize any restriction in flow). After the installation the flow didn't worsen. However the older smaller filter was not removed, and even though no filter cartridge was placed inside the canister the restriction was inside the mechanism of this smaller filter. When I removed this smaller filter system it was as different as night and day. I can now run two showers simultaneously, and also flush toilts with no change in flow!!

Thanks Again!!
Don

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was.